Problems after ball joint replacement
#1
Problems after ball joint replacement
2003 Ram 2500 4x4, Cummins
I replaced my passenger side front ball joints this morning. I used the instructions here:
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...ade/index.html
as a guide.
I removed the axle with the hub/bearing still attached.
When I was done and had everything back together, I had a problem on the test drive. in 2wd, everything seems fine. I can accelerate hard and make full lock turns in either direction. In 4wd (4-high) if I accelerate any more than just barely off idle, I get a loud clanging sound...reminds me of a bicycle chain slipping, but much bigger/louder. If I turn, I get that sound, even at idle.
My first thought was that somehow the axle splines were not properly seated in the diff. So I took it all back apart and put it back together. When I put it together, I was careful to rotate the axle. When everything was back together, I noticed that I could spin that wheel and the front driveshaft would turn. So...the splines are at least partially seated.
Another test drive yielded the same results.
The hub is fully seated against the knuckle and everything is torqued to spec. So I'm not sure how the splines could not be fully seated unless something has moved inside the diff.
Any ideas?
At this point I'm at a loss...what could be going on?
I replaced my passenger side front ball joints this morning. I used the instructions here:
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...ade/index.html
as a guide.
I removed the axle with the hub/bearing still attached.
When I was done and had everything back together, I had a problem on the test drive. in 2wd, everything seems fine. I can accelerate hard and make full lock turns in either direction. In 4wd (4-high) if I accelerate any more than just barely off idle, I get a loud clanging sound...reminds me of a bicycle chain slipping, but much bigger/louder. If I turn, I get that sound, even at idle.
My first thought was that somehow the axle splines were not properly seated in the diff. So I took it all back apart and put it back together. When I put it together, I was careful to rotate the axle. When everything was back together, I noticed that I could spin that wheel and the front driveshaft would turn. So...the splines are at least partially seated.
Another test drive yielded the same results.
The hub is fully seated against the knuckle and everything is torqued to spec. So I'm not sure how the splines could not be fully seated unless something has moved inside the diff.
Any ideas?
At this point I'm at a loss...what could be going on?
#4
Hodge: The sound is not present when turning the wheels by hand....only when operating in 4x4 mode.
Ra'am: U-joint is my guess. I went ahead and pulled the driver's side, replaced the ball joints, then pulled the passenger's side axle back off. I'll drop the axles off tomorrow morning to get new universals. We'll see if that's it.
The good news is, I'm getting really good at pulling the axles/hubs.
Ra'am: U-joint is my guess. I went ahead and pulled the driver's side, replaced the ball joints, then pulled the passenger's side axle back off. I'll drop the axles off tomorrow morning to get new universals. We'll see if that's it.
The good news is, I'm getting really good at pulling the axles/hubs.
#6
#7
No luck. I've now got new upper and lower ball joints, new front axle universals, and new front hub/bearings and I'm still getting the sound.
It happens every time the front driveline is under load. i.e. Only in 4x4 mode. Going straight when I get on the gas, I get a clunk every second and a half or so. I get the same thing, but softer, if I downshift and slow using engine braking. If I make a tight turn in 4x4, I get the sound rapid fire.
I'm getting really frustrated with this. Any other ideas?
It happens every time the front driveline is under load. i.e. Only in 4x4 mode. Going straight when I get on the gas, I get a clunk every second and a half or so. I get the same thing, but softer, if I downshift and slow using engine braking. If I make a tight turn in 4x4, I get the sound rapid fire.
I'm getting really frustrated with this. Any other ideas?
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#9
When I pulled the diff cover, the oil came out looking brand new, no metal chunks, and from what I could see, the gears all looked fine.
#11
When you replaced your ball joint did you grease it ? If so you will need to remove the grease fitting and plug it , there is not enough room to clear the fitting and the u joint . I replaced mine yesterday , Went to free spin hubs .
#12
I had this problem with a Toyota once. Did everything including buying another front axle. It turned out to be the Front Drive Shaft. Take it in and have it checked, especially the double U-Joint in the center. I believe it is called a cardon joint but may be mistaken. By the way, Toyota wanted over 1000.00 dollars for that joint with long lead time to build one. I went to the local drive shaft shop that has been around for years and they built one for me for about 250.00 out of Spicer components. It was all new and ready to install in a day. All this was at least 15 years ago so the prices have probably changed. good luck
#15
i fired moog into my truck, cheap and the store said they were garanteed for life so long as i bring a reciept and a worn out greasy ball joint. what would you suggest instead as I have only done one side and the other is coming due.
I second (or third or whatever number i am) that cardan joint. theres supposed to be a grease nipple in there and i dont think many people really service it.
I second (or third or whatever number i am) that cardan joint. theres supposed to be a grease nipple in there and i dont think many people really service it.