There is definitely more than one part number needed. There's an outside chance that the front axle and rear driveshaft use the same #'s, but no certainty. The front driveshaft may have as many as three part numbers, since the cardan joint has two crosses in it.

That said, I can't imagine replacing all the u-joints in the truck just to chase a vibration. You've got a minimum of a half day labor and lots of swearing just to replace one side of the front axle; its a nasty job. (I had a front hub and u-joint fail at 90K miles). And, as others have said, you could cause a problem during the replacement.

Look for rust erupting between the cross and the bearing cups as a telltale sign of a bad joint. If you find a bad one, go to NAPA and ask them for the correct Precision part.

 

ill just replace the 4 on the drive shafts. im not going to replace the front 2 on the hubs/steer axle. just the driveline ones. seeing as how i need both input shaft seals replaced on both diffs anywyas

 

yes precision, box said 464. I never looked at the cross closely to tell if they were indeed 464's. They installed easly with my 3lb hammer

 

Thanks, i wonder if you will be able to see the 351 number now they are installed if you take a look under there? I have the same truck as you so it would be good to confirm these will fit.

 

sorry for the long post.

Well, I would suggest to anyone that you purchase your u-joints locally so incase it doesn't quite fit you could take them back.

Everywhere i've found these u-joints they've been stamped 351. Soooo my plan is to just take out the stock one to compare, i'll let ya'll know what i find.

As for taking apart the front-end apart, I too got to experience the stuck hub assembly but I managed to get the rotor, hub, axle all apart and cleaned just under an hour. The power steering method is most certainly the way to go!!! Whomever came up with idea is a freaking genius!!!!

If you have any reservations about doing this, as long as your somewhat mechanically inclined it's really not that difficult. You could feasibly take your time and have it done in about 1.5 hrs. Apart that is....

One note, you'll need the following tools for sure. 1 11/16 socket (3/4" drive) 18mm socket (at least 1/2" drive). Cheater bar I would say at least 3' long.

The axle nut is the 1 11/16 socket and I believe it's torqued to 260+ ft/lbs. The two bolts that hold on the caliper and the 4 bolts that hold on the hub assembly are the 18mm bolts I'm not sure what they are torqued too but I used a 1/2" drive that was 18" long and had to put some muscle into it.

During the dis-assembly I broke two 3/8" 18mm sockets trying to break the hub bolts loose.

During re-assembly I'll certainly be putting lock tight on all the bolts and anti-seze on everything else.

Good luck feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

 

UPDATE:

My truck is in my buddies shop now (it would have been there sooner but i wrecked my wifes car in the ice last week).

Anyways he's got one side stripped and out and has installed one of the U joints. The 464 with the 351 center fitted fine.

The biggest problem he's having is that just about everything on the truck is siezed and a nightmare to get apart. This is a mint truck thats never been off road and only has 45k mile on it. The bottom balljoints were trashed, the top ball joints were siezed, the stabilizer bar links were trashed.

I bought another couple of trucks last week and one is an 05 CTD 2WD. I think i'm gonna keep that and sell the 4wd 04 when it's back together.