did u see the link in post 6?

 

Have you guys thought about the new 2011 cap? We had a factory re-call.

 

Son of a bee, mine blew off, can I put some foil on it so I can get to the dealer tomorrow morning?

 

What year models? I didn't receive a notice.

 

Just to bring this post back from the dead, it would seem there is a "new crop" of us dealing with this issue.
a new factory 2013 cap did not solve anything.. gonna try this on my truck this weekend.

 

Mine will build pressure but no leaks and no lost caps. Maybe I'm lucky?

(Note to self..... Check cap in the morning)

 

What size drill bit?

 

Shorts,

No need to drill the cap. I use the method that Black Puff Gone outlined in post #6 on several trucks. That has taken care of any further over pressurization issues. Drilling a hole in the cap may allow the fluid to slosh out and exposure to atmosphere and debris in the fluid then becomes a concern.

 

Oh see I wanted to drill because that is the easier fix for me to do with one hand. Prying stuff apart and doing finer motor skill work with one hand is tedious

 

I was aware of that but want you to be aware of the drawbacks of doing so. Use a .020 drill bit.

 

Yep, I am. I read the thread.
I'm being lazy, dang it, since I've got other chores to get to. And you're totally ruining it!

ETA: if I were to do it properly......what bit or grit do I use to grind down the material inside the cap? Is there a chance I use too course a grit on the surface which then doesn't allow the orange rubber oring to seal properly? Or trial and error and then fine sand the surface to finish up(220, 320 or 400)?

(You see, you see why I try to do a lazy hack job. Otherwise I end up going OCD the other way )

 

I use a course metal grinding bit on the drill and clean the rough hanging plastic with 400 grit sandpaper. IT only requires removing approximately 1/8" of material but a little more is ok too. If you want to be a hack, that's ok as well. I know a guy that used a small soldering iron to remove the plastic and it worked.

 

Just my opinion after seeing this same situation crop up on several vehicles. As we know,the cap is manufactured in two pieces and contains an internal vent space between them. This two piece unit is intended to relieve pressure within the pump to atmosphere. Located directly under the cap(lid) you will see a plastic plate. Once unassembled this plate utilizes a small trench or gulley which travels along the area between it and the cap. The only way to get a good look at it is to separate the cap from the dipstick assembly. (See post #6).

The vent within the cap is a poor design and is easily clogged. You can use a dremel tool or a drill and a grinding stone or bit to remove a portion of the small tang that hangs down from center of the cap.That split tang limits the movement of the gray rubber relief valve, which impedes the proper travel distance of the vent to move from it's seated position. I believe the cap, given that it is manufactured in two pieces, gets assembled to the pump and works as it should for a while. However; as time goes by, the two pieces within the cap compress from the force of being screwed onto the pump and the gaps necessary for the cap to function properly close up and pressurize the system. This then leads to leakage in steering boxes an power steering hose fittings.

Another issue that I find to be a best practice is flushing the power steering fluid. Power steering fluid is one of the most neglected fluids on automobiles. Many people allow their broken down factory fill ATF+4 fluid to sit unchanged in the reservoir until issues crop up. Doing so only allows the wear metals, contaminates, and condensation to circulate throughout the system.

 

Good info
Thanks DrD

 

Thanks DrD, I'll probably end up doing it the "right way"