My 2004.5 lost power and I code checked it to find out power was out to bank "B". I didnt know what injectors were on "B" so I tested them all with a multi meter. I found one injector (4th from front) to have around 19 ohms and all the rest were in the .3 range. So I assume thats a bad injector. I am having a hard time finding were to get a good reman injector. Any ideas?

To replace the injector I could use a guide or referance. I looked on the site with no luck for past articles.

to remove the injector do I need to remove the exhaust rocker? If I could find a article or post on setting valve clearance I would do them all.

 

The inj. with the high reading is your bad one. Try and stay away from a reman unit though. There have been too many cases of remans either being bad from the start or failing soon after.

Yes, I do believe it is the exhaust rocker that must be removed and be very careful not to over-tighten the wires on the injector solenoid. I've always used the .010 (intake) and .020 (exhaust) measurement for setting valve lash but I think I read somewhere lately that the specs have varied a little but the ones I mentioned will definitely get you set.

 

With the valve lash on the exhaust, I have a couple questions. Were do I put the feeler guage since there is two valves. Also I assume that I get the push rod to its lowest point for this. Sorry such a remedial question.

Were is it recommended to get a injector from?

 

I'll have to try and find the order for valve lash by cylinder but you always start with #1 at TDC compression and work your way down the head from there. For some reason I want to say that when I pulled one of my inj several years ago that there is no need to re-lash the valve bridge but, like I said, that was about 8 yrs ago, so I really don't remember.

You set the lash by using your feeler gauges in between the rocker arm and the valve bridge....the piece that actuates both valves when the rocker hits it.

Do a search for setting valve clearance and you will find the sequence for it...i.e. something like engine at #1 TDC compression, set intake valves on #1,3,5...go 360* and set exhaust on etc.....(thats just an off the wall example)

 

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong on any of this......it's been a LONG time since I've done this and I'm by no means an expert at it.

There are folks on here that have probably farted and lost more info about these engines than I will ever know. I just learn by taking it apart and putting it back together....you know, us shade-tree mechanics are becoming dinosaurs!!

 

Thanks soo much for this help

 

Yes, the one with 19 ohms is shot. Why it's reading that high is because of excessive fuel return. Fuel gets in and shorts out the solenoid. Been noticing white smoke on a cold start, along with really rough idle that will clear up?

 

No there was no tell tale signs. just boom "limp mode" and a p2149 code along with a crank shaft position sensor malfunction. I replaced the sensor with no fix. I had a spare so no money was spent.

 

the new injectors have a upgraded body. as stated above go new. you set the lash between the bridge and tappet. you only need to remove the exhaust one, try to remember or mark the direction of the bridge and put it back the same. no need to reset the lash but if you wanted to check the lash on all now would be the time to do it. #4 is not to bad, #6 will make you learn a few new words. it will take you about two hours the first time. the second time about one hour. i cut a socket down to aid in the hold down nut 10 mm and 8mm are the two size sockets you need. i will try to copy the torque sequence to this post. be very careful on the wire nut torque.install. The injector is installed with the hole facing the intake manifold. The retainer is pinned on the injector to hold it in the proper orientation to the connector tube
Tighten the injector carefully following the service manual. From the 04 service manual, torque the injector bolts to 44 inch pounds, then back off the bolts. Install the connector tube with the ***** facing up. The ***** will go into a slot in the head, and keep the tube from rotating in the head when you loosen/tighten the nut.
Tighten the connector tube to 11 foot pounds. This is the step most technicians’ short cut, and use an end wrench to tighten the connector tube. By not correctly installing the tube, you risk leaks internal to the engine that can cause hard starting, stalling, and rough running etc. The reason most technicians use the end wrench is because to get the socket in, you have to remove anything that limits access to the socket. This takes extra time that some guys will not spend.
Tighten the injector bolts alternately to 89 inch pounds. Then tighten the connector tube to 37 foot pounds. Tighten the injector wire connector nuts to 11 inch pounds. Be very careful to not over tighten.
Install the rocker arm (the elephant foot that connects the two exhaust valves can go on either way) and set the valve lash per the service manual.

the size for the tube is 19mm and the nut is 24 mm

 

Thanks, this info is great. I ordered a new injector and tube from The Diesel Store for $400 ish.