I have an 04.5 Cummins and want to hook up lines for an add-on by pass oil filter. Where is a good location for the inlet side and where is the best location for the return line? Thanks for your comments!

 

On my 04.5, I used one of the plugs outlets on the top of the fuel filter mount for the inlet side of my MotorGuard bypass. I used the "self tapping hollow bolt" to return the oil to the pan. Tapping the pan is not the big ordeal that is sounds like either!!!!

 

If you look at the base where the oil filter spins on to you will see two 1/4 npt plugs which you could tap into for a bypass filter, twin turbo oil feed line, or oil pressure guage. To return the filtered oil back to the motor, you have two options. One return to the valve cover cap or the oil pan. I chose the valve cover for ease of sampling and monitoring flow. I had to get rid of the stock two piece ratchet cap and bought a stant #11111 cap from advanced auto parts. I also had to buy an amsoil swivel fitting (BP89) and drilled through the center of the cap to thread in the swivel fitting. If you need pics, I could email you some of my setup. I am using a frantz bypass.

 

Can someone explain to me why they call it a "by-pass" filter? And is it different than just adding a 2nd oil filter inline with the factory filter (if that's possible)? Thanks!

 

First,
I mounted a single bypass filter onto my 04.5 in front of the right front tire. There was just enough room for the mount after I made a flat braket to lift the mount high enough so the filter did not extend below the frame. I had to temporarily remove the fender skirt to have some room.
This was not available when I mounted mine but for the return amsoil has a replacement cap with fittings so you don't have to drill anything. I used that hole on the top of the Oil filter housing as the feed line.
To answer the bypass question, the bypass filter has a very small pore size so the Oil will not flow fast enough to maintain proper engine lubrication. THe bypass is run in parallel to the regular flow through so the oil going through the regular filter has a high enough flow rate to maintain proper oil pressure and the oil going through the bypass gets "super" cleaned.

 

Thanks a lot Jimmy, now I understand.

 

Are the two holes above the oil filter both outlets, or is one a return?

 

Ranger,
I only remember one on my 2004.5, I will have to take a look. If there are 2 they are both under pressure. Question is are they both post filter or is one pre-filter, not that it would matter for a bypass.

 

Ranger,
Are you installing an AMSOIL ByPass? Mine came with the fitting for that port plus instructions and pictures for the Dodges.

 

There are two and they are both outlets not returns. I am not sure of pre or post full flow filter. The 2nd one is not as visible and more towards the head. When I get home tonite I will post pics. I had the bypass urge for a while, everytime I drove my truck I was thinking about particles in my oil. Toilet paper is sweet and its funny when people hear that you are filtering your oil with toilet paper, oh and its 1972 technology too.

 

I really like the amsoil billet cap too but for $60 I about chocked. The stant cap is $6 or go to genos for $20 and get their billet cap and drill with a drill press.

 

The nice thing about returning the oil to the pan via the "self tapping hollow bolt" is that all the oil drains out of the unit upon shutdown and you have no mess when changing the TP!!!!

 

Supa Dupa,

Thanks for your interesting input. Clue me in more on the self tapping hollow bolt and its installation process without getting any metal shavings in the oil pan (assuming you installed it in the oil pan.) Also, where do I purchase such
a creature? I had thought about removing my valve cover and installing a
return oil connection in it. Thanks for a reply to: d-p-k@hotmail.com

DPK

 

The "STHB" came with the MotorGuard unit that I installed. I believe Amsoil makes them or thats where you can get them from. You do not drill into the oil pan. You punch through it with a very sharp tapered punch. There's not much room under there to swing a hammer, but it can be done. Once you get a hole into the pan, stick a wire in there to make sure nothing important is behind your hole. Then drive the tapered punch in until a 5/16 bolt will fit into the hole. Then put some RTV (probably not needed) on the back of the rubber washer on the STHB and thread her in. It will take some elbow grease to get this bad boy in there, but once installed, it ain't coming out unless you take it out!!! By punching the pan, you make/push a lip of metal into the pan which allows more threads to be tapped, thereby making a much stronger connection!! If they would let me post attachments, I have a picture to show of where I tapped my pan.

 

Other than the extra work and all is there a reason why you don't just remove the pan and add a bung?