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Parts replaced and still low power?

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Old 03-31-2012, 05:02 AM
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Parts replaced and still low power?

All right, needing some more technical expertise from all of you more experienced diesel guys out there. I have a 2005 2500 5.9, 6-speed, quad cab short bed 4x4, 160k on the clock. I posted another thread a while back when I first bought the truck about it having much lower power than a lot of other similar stock trucks with the same amount of miles. I ended up having the truck checked out at Dan’s Garage in Peckham, CO, who could find nothing wrong with the truck. Said it was building satisfactory fuel pressure, engine numbers under heavy load (30-foot enclosed trailer with car inside) were where they should be, NO CODES. I ended up having them adjust the valves, which they said were pretty lashy, and put a Smarty Jr. on it, and that seemed to help a lot. Ran like a different truck for a while.

Anyhow, now I’ve noticed gradual power loss again. Over the period of a few weeks, the truck has went from running decent without much smoke except at heavy throttle above 2300 rpm, to CLOUDS of black smoke, MUCH less power. I just replaced FCA, MAP sensor, fuel filter (3rd time in under 1000 miles to be safe), and put on a Donaldson 51” muffler.

Now, when I drive other 2003 and newer common rail trucks, when you get on the throttle, power predictably increases the more pedal you give it. (DUH, right?) My truck, from 1300 rpm up to 1900-2000, full throttle, unloaded, clouds of black smoke, no extra power! On Smarty level 1 thru Level 3. Extra power on SW3 is only felt if I am in the upper RPM band. Otherwise, it’s only good for extra smoke. It’s like, hammer it, hardly any extra power, RPM builds, slightly more power at 1800, black smoke, 2500 RPM and the truck takes off OK. It also seems if I let off of the pedal, and get on it again floored, power gradually builds. I can hear the turbo begin to respond, but no extra power! If I barely am on it, the truck tools around ok, but is slow in traffic. If I get on it enough to keep up with traffic, CLOUDS of black smoke. Like I said, even on SW1. Some smoke on stock, not much though. Seems to have a little more power (?) flashed to stock? Sorry for the dissertation, but I’m at odds with this thing. Ran this same way since shortly after I bought it. It wasn’t as absolutely responsive as others when I bought it, but I got a good deal and figured it just needed a fuel filter or something.

I don’t drive it that often, I work during the week with take home car, and drive it mainly on the weekends. Only thing I pull with it is my 16 foot landscape trailer with a Walker mower in it, and you’d think I was pulling a few tons of lead weights behind me or something. Can a lift pump cause low power? I notice I have to cycle the key after fuel filter replacement upwards of 20 or more times before the truck will start.

Also, I read about loose crossover tubes causing low power issues, but my truck is gutless all the time, not just after warmup. Can loose tubes cause this? No codes, no leaks from any fuel system component, no other clues. Mechanic says it’s fine. Mechanic says no boost leaks. Also has aftermarket intake with Amsoil/Donaldson cone filter. What gives?
Old 03-31-2012, 11:16 AM
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Looks like your getting plenty of fuel and not enough air. Check your air filter and the plumbing to make sure there are no obstructions.
Old 03-31-2012, 01:01 PM
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If no boost leak, dirty or bad sensor or wiring to sensor? Maybe causing the waste gate to open to lower boost pressure and over fueling.

Wouldn't a bad injector throw a code? For some reason if not I wonder if you have an injector going bad. Is the truck idling ok?

Do you have gauges? What is your boost pyro temps? With a Smarty Jr you can over temp. With that much smoke (and lacking air), it makes me think that you are over temping bad. Be carefull. I'd pull the smarty off and go back to stock. But on SW1, you shouldn't see that kind of smoke.

I'd park it till you get it right. I'd hate to see you wash a cylinder or over temp and loose the motor.
Old 04-01-2012, 10:36 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone! As for the questions, I don't know whether an injector going bad will throw a code or not. I've tried pulling codes with my smarty, and with the key trick. The truck is idling okay. I've only noticed once since owning the truck that it idled rough at all, now that you mention it. It was about a 40-degree morning, and it started up, and sounded like it was missing on one cylinder for about 2 or 3 seconds, then back to normal. It always puffs just a slight haze of gray-blue smoke on startup, but I've never had a diesel on the farm that didn't smoke like crazy on cold startup.

I don't have any gauges, I should probably invest in some. I didn't think I'd need any because I don't plan on hauling any major loads with it for the life of the truck. Just my 16-foot landscape trailer.

The truck just doesn't feel "eager to go." Like you just have to whip the ponies to get it to keep up with traffic. I guess I should try a different shop and see if I can get exact figures on rail pressure at different rpm's, boost under load, etc. Dan's Garage weren't able to provide me exact numbers on that stuff when they said all was ok.
Old 04-01-2012, 10:49 PM
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If you had some gauges it would be easier to lead you in the right direction. You could have a boost leak or injectors that are going bad. Hard to tell.
Old 04-01-2012, 11:06 PM
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Yes, you need gauges, now. Boost, fuel pressure and EGT must be monitored. How much boost is your turbo making and for how long? What's your fuel pressure? When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? You mentioned that you replaced the muffler with a Donaldson 51 inch...that should flow well but you didn't mention that catalytic converter...still part of exhaust system? If so, could be clogged...replace or install test pipe. Reset the Filterminder on the air box then do a couple of WOT runs. How far are you pulling it down? Did you over-oil the air filter element? Get that engine some cold, fresh air from underneath the truck...do the Home Depot cold air bix mod...replace the air filter element as previously mentioned.
Old 04-02-2012, 03:49 AM
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sounds like my 99 when it blows off the hose at the turbo.
i finally did put in all new boost hoses, it dont come off anymore.

i agree with above, at least get a temporary gauge and check you boost pressure.
Old 04-02-2012, 11:02 PM
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hey fordguy. i responded in your last thread awhile back, if u remember, your mechanic said u were only building 28lbs of boost. like i said in your other thread, thats way low for a 05. with my smarty jr on sw3, i can hit and hold 38lbs all day long. ditto on what others have said, get guages asap! its going to tell u whats going on with your truck.
Old 04-03-2012, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by VADERPOWER
hey fordguy. i responded in your last thread awhile back, if u remember, your mechanic said u were only building 28lbs of boost. like i said in your other thread, thats way low for a 05. with my smarty jr on sw3, i can hit and hold 38lbs all day long. ditto on what others have said, get guages asap! its going to tell u whats going on with your truck.
Making 28 psi of boost with a Smarty is normal as long as the waste gate is not turned off and there is no boost fooler. With a fooler or the gate turned off, it should be doing more. I'm doing 42 on the stock he351 on my 05 but would peak at 29 on an old pre Revo tune (w/ no manual wastegate on/ off) and no fooler.
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