Paint burning off of rear end cover
07-11-2007, 09:29 PM
#31
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This is an older thread but I've brought it up because I just changed my Diff. fluids and found the paint bubbled on the rear cover.
Shortly after bringing the truck home, I squirted some paint on it to hide some of the rust and peeling. I figured it was just a lousy paint job.
This time I buffed off all the paint and rust, shot it with primer and Rustoleum. Then I read the cans, both of which said not to use it on surfaces which got to 200*F. Since more than 60% of the time I tow a 11K RV I suspect this paint won't last too long either. I guess next time I'll use high heat paint like for a bar be que or manifold.
I just can't see paying $270 for a Mag Hytek and an extra $50 for oil every 15K miles.
Dan
Shortly after bringing the truck home, I squirted some paint on it to hide some of the rust and peeling. I figured it was just a lousy paint job.
This time I buffed off all the paint and rust, shot it with primer and Rustoleum. Then I read the cans, both of which said not to use it on surfaces which got to 200*F. Since more than 60% of the time I tow a 11K RV I suspect this paint won't last too long either. I guess next time I'll use high heat paint like for a bar be que or manifold.
I just can't see paying $270 for a Mag Hytek and an extra $50 for oil every 15K miles.
Dan
07-11-2007, 10:41 PM
#33
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Same problem on Ferds, too.
Amazingly, I recently initiated a pretty much identical thread over on the Ferd Modular Forum. It seems that many/most of the 3/4 and 1 Ton Ferds do the same thing.
My thread was titled "How Much Heat is Too Much? (differential)"
Had folks laughing about "going around feeling their rear-ends". But the consensus was exactly the same. Little to no prep, cheap paint and relatively high heat application. Heat is normal.
No gear set is 100% efficient. So, anything less than that 100% efficiency is lost through friction - and heat! Less efficiency, more heat. That's why good lubricants are so important - and a well dialed-in gearset.
Ferd must have recognized this - take a look at the diff covers on the '08 diesels. (They're aluminum and finned).
My thread was titled "How Much Heat is Too Much? (differential)"
Had folks laughing about "going around feeling their rear-ends". But the consensus was exactly the same. Little to no prep, cheap paint and relatively high heat application. Heat is normal.
No gear set is 100% efficient. So, anything less than that 100% efficiency is lost through friction - and heat! Less efficiency, more heat. That's why good lubricants are so important - and a well dialed-in gearset.
Ferd must have recognized this - take a look at the diff covers on the '08 diesels. (They're aluminum and finned).
07-12-2007, 09:35 AM
#36
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What is the trade name for the tape mentioned earlier?
Iv got the same prob on my 05 and I as I was reading the diff posts, I thought about sanding and repainting the part and putting the tape on.
Would using VHT header paint work?
Iv got the same prob on my 05 and I as I was reading the diff posts, I thought about sanding and repainting the part and putting the tape on.
Would using VHT header paint work?
07-12-2007, 09:50 AM
#37
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i agree that the maghytech is expensive, and the fluids are outrageous.(where are you getting $50 for fluid? cost me just over $100 for the 2 gals in the rear)
with double the fluid capacity, built in cooling, i am going to extend my diff changes to 30k. not like i have a warranty to worry about anyway
with double the fluid capacity, built in cooling, i am going to extend my diff changes to 30k. not like i have a warranty to worry about anyway
07-12-2007, 03:07 PM
#38
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Royal Purple at the local parts house is 12.95/Qt. The Mag Hytec takes 4 extra quarts ( I'm told) that's $52 plus tax. The Chrysler dealer wants $140 for the fluids only to change out a stock front and rear diff.
Dan
Dan
07-12-2007, 03:35 PM
#40
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My comment was "an extra $50 for fluids". Since I spent $106 this time, with the Hytek it would be $158 for fluids (front and rear). Actually a bit more since the $106 included taxes and I didn't add them in for the extra oil. At our local 7.75% that adds better than 4 bucks more bringing my increased cost to a total of $162 per change. Granted that only happens once a year at the rate I drive but as a friend from the old country often says "money is money!"
Dan
Dan
07-12-2007, 03:47 PM
#41
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I just cleaned the cover off with a wire brush and painted it with general old black paint. I have not had a problem with the paint peeling since. So the stock paint job must have been crap.
07-12-2007, 05:14 PM
#43
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Hapidonie.... The temperature tapes that I was referring to are made for/by Caterpillar. If you have a local dealership, you can get them there.
The p/n is 8T2821 (this one is for 80 to 230 degrees F)
The p/n is 8T2821 (this one is for 80 to 230 degrees F)
07-12-2007, 10:23 PM
#44
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im glad i dont pay that for fluid...
i use redline shock proof 80-250..... i think i spent less than $40 f&r last time...
i like the mag cover, but i think ill order up an oasis rams head...
i use redline shock proof 80-250..... i think i spent less than $40 f&r last time...
i like the mag cover, but i think ill order up an oasis rams head...
07-12-2007, 10:37 PM
#45
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Any good brand rattle can paint will work as long as you prepare it right. Do not get a water-based paint, they are crap. The paint they paint the diffs with is a water-based paint, they use it because the EPA restrictions are not as harsh with WB paint.