NV5600 pilot bearing/parts list
#1
NV5600 pilot bearing/parts list
04 3500 4x4 quad cab 150K
5.9L 325HP with NV5600
I need some help with a parts list for replacing the pilot bearing and throw-out bearing on my NV5600. I'm getting the typical high pitched squeal and hard to get into gear. Doing research on this site has helped much with identifying the problem. Thanks!
Here is what I have so far:
1 x 01-05 Dodge NV5600 6 Speed Valair Throw-Out Bearing
1 x 01-05 Dodge NV5600 6 Speed Valair 1.375" Alignment Tool
1 x 03-07 Dodge 5.9L Cummins Rear Main Seal
1 x 01-05 Dodge NV5600 6 Speed Valair Pilot Bearing (stock)
1 x Dodge NV5600 Front Seal
1 x 4x4 NV5600 Output Shaft Seal
Can anyone think of anything else?
Should I do anything with the T-case while it's on the ground?
This is my first time taking this thing apart.
Any input making this go smoothly is much appreciated.
5.9L 325HP with NV5600
I need some help with a parts list for replacing the pilot bearing and throw-out bearing on my NV5600. I'm getting the typical high pitched squeal and hard to get into gear. Doing research on this site has helped much with identifying the problem. Thanks!
Here is what I have so far:
1 x 01-05 Dodge NV5600 6 Speed Valair Throw-Out Bearing
1 x 01-05 Dodge NV5600 6 Speed Valair 1.375" Alignment Tool
1 x 03-07 Dodge 5.9L Cummins Rear Main Seal
1 x 01-05 Dodge NV5600 6 Speed Valair Pilot Bearing (stock)
1 x Dodge NV5600 Front Seal
1 x 4x4 NV5600 Output Shaft Seal
Can anyone think of anything else?
Should I do anything with the T-case while it's on the ground?
This is my first time taking this thing apart.
Any input making this go smoothly is much appreciated.
#2
"How in the heck do I change the phrase in between my user name and avatar?"
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,742
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From: Waco, Texas
The only thing I'll add is to go ahead and replace the cam seal. It's only $5-$6 and you'll already have it tore down that far. Other than that it sounds like you have everything you need.
#3
Thanks for the advice Justin! I'll do just that.
What should I do if the tip of the input shaft is tore up?
I'm hoping it's just the throw-out bearing making all the noise but the pilot bearing is quite infamous as many know.
What should I do if the tip of the input shaft is tore up?
I'm hoping it's just the throw-out bearing making all the noise but the pilot bearing is quite infamous as many know.
#4
"How in the heck do I change the phrase in between my user name and avatar?"
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
From: Waco, Texas
Pretty good chance your input shaft nose is fine. The throw-out bearing is not a very long-life item.....they wear out more often than the pilot bearing. My last go around I had my flywheel milled out in the center and a heavy duty roller bearing pressed in. Shouldn't have to worry about it anymore.
#5
If that's the case then just replacing the pilot bearing with OEM part should probably last the life of the vehicle.
If the clutch is pooped out then I'll replace parts with new flywheel and HD bearing.
Thanks again.
If the clutch is pooped out then I'll replace parts with new flywheel and HD bearing.
Thanks again.
#6
Advocate of getting the ban button used on him...
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,081
Likes: 8
From: Live Oak Texas
If I'm reading this right you still have the stock clutch as well? If so why not replace the entire clutch assembly? That's a lot of work to replace a throwout bearing and/or pilot bushing and leave the stock clutch with 150k miles on it in there!
#7
"How in the heck do I change the phrase in between my user name and avatar?"
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 0
From: Waco, Texas
Good catch there rockcrawler.............I totally missed that!!!!
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#8
Advocate of getting the ban button used on him...
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Live Oak Texas
#9
When I replaced my clutch they recommended that the factory pilot bearing not be used and replace it with a bushing even though a bearing was supplied with my new clutch I listened and went with the bushing. They showed me a transmission input shaft that was scored on the end from a pilot bearing that had piled up.The bushing was an oilite bronze bushing and has been in for about 50,000 miles now.
#10
I should probably know this already but I would like the opinion of the experienced. At what point should I make the decision to replace the clutch?...I mean with respect to clutch material. For hypothetical instance let's say there is about 1/8" of material from the rivets.
Some are of the opinion that the stock clutch is very durable. So what does everyone think?
Thanks rockcrawler304
#11
When I replaced my clutch they recommended that the factory pilot bearing not be used and replace it with a bushing even though a bearing was supplied with my new clutch I listened and went with the bushing. They showed me a transmission input shaft that was scored on the end from a pilot bearing that had piled up.The bushing was an oilite bronze bushing and has been in for about 50,000 miles now.
Do you do any heavy towing with your rig?
I've replaced a few clutches on gas engine/manual where the bushing left some serious play in the input shaft. Not that critical with an engine with 200 lb-ft or less torque.
Thanks Jim O
#12
Update
This job is going well...took us about 7 hours to get to this point.
Replaced pilot bearing, throw-out bearing, clutch and pressure plate. We got everything bolted back up except drive shaft and shift tower. Well, transfer case is setting on the back of the tranny.
The clutch, flywheel and pressure plate looked almost brand new. No wear at all on the flywheel. The flywheel looked like a replacement with factory machine marks that encircle the entire face. I don't believe it has been ground i.e. small circles on face. Had almost no wear at all. The pilot bearing looked new as well. To my surprise the tranny input shaft looked to be in pristine condition.
The TO bearing was completely destroyed to shrapnel. Some of the pressure plate fingers were ground off. The spline tab in the clutch had a ton of play (understandably).
Maybe I'm crazy but it looks like someone put new parts in this thing and reused the throw-out bearing!!!!???? It looked old...maybe the original. There wasn't a bit of grease between the TO bearing and the input shaft housing. Luckily the plate had only a normal amount of wear.
I do have a question though. Let's assume that the last guy had replaced the TO bearing. What the heck could have caused this and how can I prevent it from happening again?
This job is going well...took us about 7 hours to get to this point.
Replaced pilot bearing, throw-out bearing, clutch and pressure plate. We got everything bolted back up except drive shaft and shift tower. Well, transfer case is setting on the back of the tranny.
The clutch, flywheel and pressure plate looked almost brand new. No wear at all on the flywheel. The flywheel looked like a replacement with factory machine marks that encircle the entire face. I don't believe it has been ground i.e. small circles on face. Had almost no wear at all. The pilot bearing looked new as well. To my surprise the tranny input shaft looked to be in pristine condition.
The TO bearing was completely destroyed to shrapnel. Some of the pressure plate fingers were ground off. The spline tab in the clutch had a ton of play (understandably).
Maybe I'm crazy but it looks like someone put new parts in this thing and reused the throw-out bearing!!!!???? It looked old...maybe the original. There wasn't a bit of grease between the TO bearing and the input shaft housing. Luckily the plate had only a normal amount of wear.
I do have a question though. Let's assume that the last guy had replaced the TO bearing. What the heck could have caused this and how can I prevent it from happening again?
#13
Dont sit at the stop light with your foot depressing the clutch the TO brg has a life of only 200 hrs which you are using at the stop light put it in neutral and take your foot off the clutch.
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