even if it did it would work like the NAPA/stant one does, it would get to temp OK, just wont send enough coolant thru the heater core,
I had one along time ago, I did measure them up, just for the life of me cant remember what I found out

 

I just hear a lot of negative things about any non-Cummins stat.

I'm not sure why it wouldn't send coolant thru the core, I get plenty of flow with the thermostat closed or open. Does the heater core return not go right to the water pump inlet on a 2nd gen? I thought the blocks were nearly identical from 98.5+.

My truck will get to a steady temp and hold it, about 191° until everything warms up then 193°. It only changes after that if I hit a hill or change the load. I only have 8-10 times a year where the thermostat goes full open (207°) and I tow about 50% of my miles.

The 2nd gen 180° thermostat cracks at 180°, but isn't full open until 198°.

 

Your radiator is hot on one side and cold on the other side because of its efficiency combined with the freezing cold temps outside. It was already mentioned.....put some cardboard in front of your radiator!

 

ok i had the core flushed out thoroughly by a good shop and it has gotten a little better but still no blazing hot. it at least doesn't get colder when the fan speed is turned up. gonna make sure there is no air in the system and try the cardboard trick. if that doesn't do it guess i'm gonna have to replace the core. anybody know about how many hours of labor it'll be. just looking for rough ideas.

 

The radiator should NOT be one side hot and one side cold after the thermostat is opened. This has nothing to do with the heater core. I would condemn the radiator.

 

Why not? It dumps hot coolant in one side, and the airflow cools it. Unless you have been driving for a lot of miles with any sort of load the radiator will be hot on the right and colder on the left, how cold depends on ambient temp, speed just driven, and load.

 

Agreed with that.
Would it be possible that the system was never fully filled up because of a clogged radiator? The heater core was flushed already. Heat should come gradually as far as the coolant warms up before the thermostat open if there is no air in the system. I still suspect air in the system for some reason.

 

like i said, i'm gonna make sure the system is bled. had to put some in after driving home so probably air in it

 

Probably so!

 

There are different tricks to fill up the system. You can raise the front of the truck so that the radiator cap is at the highest point of the system. You can disconnect the heater return hose at the engine block. You can fill up without the thermostat. Just some examples. For me I fill up the radiator cold. Start and run engine until thermostat open and fill up radiator again. Then drive the HOT engine for a while and then shutdown the engine and let it COOL down. Top up the radiator and the overflow container and it,s done. My two cents

 

If you have full air flow with the fan on high, I would doubt the core is clogged from debris on the outside.

If your coolant return line from the heater is the same temperature as the feed line, the heater core will not be plugged.

My speculation would be a stuck blend door or a disconnected cable. I realize you did the fix, but it is a relatively simple process to pull the kick panel and double check to be sure it is not stuck again.

Also, put it in heat only mode so the defroster is off, and check your A/C compressor. If stuck in the defrost cycle mode with the compressor running at full tilt you will be cooling your warm air.

 

ok, been sitting for 5 hours and went to check the levels. coolant was slightly low in the radiator and the overflow tank was nearly empty. filled the tank up to just below the max line and topped of the radiator. gonna let it sit overnight and check in the morning.

 

Blend door....

 

it's not the blend door. i fixed that a few months ago with steel parts not that plastic junk dodge uses. coolant level was fine this morning but i didn't get the truck up to full heat. however, it's starting to put out more heat sooner than before, but it's not blazing hot yet. probably got some air in it still.

 

Not the door itself. The actuator for the door. The steel parts just fix the hinge...you still have motors that can go out. Whatever you think though bud.