Get yourself a 18mm deep 1/2" drive socket and a five pound short handle sledge hammer. Unbolt the four 18mm bolts from the back of the spindle, but only a couple of turns, then put the socket on the head of one of the bolts and start driving the bolt forward. Work your way around all four bolts until the hub starts to move forward. Every time the hub starts to move forward, unscrew the bolts a couple of turns. This works, just need a little patience, and raw 5lb persuasion.

The first time i pulled the hubs on my 04, it took me 20 minutes of hammering per hub. Not much left of the 18mm socket by the time i was done.

WHAT EVER YOU DO, DO NOT USE HEAT.
And do not use a puller on the wheel studs to pull the hub forward, you will split the bearing, and then you have to replace the hub. I have seen this happen.

Driving the hub outward from the spindle is the only way to do it.
Don't give up, these hubs do come out, just be patient.

JR

 

Each bearing/hub is an assembly and can only be replaced as a unit. They run around $ 250/$300 each depending the place you buy them. If you separate bearing from hub, you will have to replace them, they cannot be reassembled.

When I did my 1st set I bought also a nice drill brass brush and a bottle of antiseize. I can take hub off now in 15 minutes..... or less.

 

Penetrating oil will only do so much in a tight clearance area. It should help a little depending on what kind your using. Some of the stuff they sell is like monkey *edit* Like alot of us are saying, Just back the bolts out alittle and give em a good hit. and work back and forth. Not no "ewwww" hits. good solid hits. You'll get them off. And dont grunt to much, the neighbors will laugh.

 

https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs....l#anchor173855

We started using this at work about 10 years ago, now this is all we use. Never seen it in stores, but you can order it from the maker. You might be able to find it at an industrial supply like grainger or fastenal. Good stuff, best Ive ever used for sure.

 

The dealer will definetely use a puller and almost surely destroy the bearing! You can destroy stuff yourself you don't need an overpriced dealer to do that for you. Everyone I've heard of using the dealer always had to get new bearings. I tried doing mine using a big slide puller and hammer to punch and couldn't get it put it back together drove it another week while soaking the *hit out of it everyday with fluid. Then tried again and the power steering method worked. My buddy destroyed his bearings with the same puller thats why I waited and tried several different things

 

anybody ever try this http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis39300.html
ive use the socket power steering method before with sucess. The snap on dhp1 also looks like a viable option too.

 

Grind the tip flat on an air chisel. Make it like a big drift punch. Back the 4 bolts out a 1/4 inch at a time. Apply air chisel to each bolt head, alternating corners. The hub will walk its way out.

 

Well? Did ya get it off? With the silence of this thread it doesnt appear to be good news. Even if you break it, the labor cost that the dealer will charge you will be around the same if not more than what you can buy a new bearing/hub assembly from napa. Not to mention they will still charge you for the u-joint and labor. And there is no gaurantee they will get it off without breaking it. They will just tell you it was bad. Then your stuck with over priced dealer parts. Most napa's will stock 1 and with a discount it should be alittle over 200.00.

 

I've never tried this personally, but...

"Review of penetrating oils anti corrosive performanceRecommend trying the 50/50 solution of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Independent test reveal this works far better than commercial products and it certainly has been proven reliable at Griffin Technical College, Griffin, GA"

 

Ive used that penetrant it works well but no better than PB Blasterwhich is @ NAPA the Kroil I got from a friend whos brother works @ the stone plant and they use it