3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Need advice before purchasing

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Old 09-30-2011, 11:30 PM
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Need advice before purchasing

I have a 27 foot camper that my 06 F150 struggles to pull. I have never owned a diesel before. I have spotted online a nice 2004 2500 CTD automatic with 89,000 miles. I am thinking of going to look at it but I really don't know of what kind of things to look out for. Were there any known problems with 04's? This 04 will be purchased "as is, no warranty" and I do not want to get a lemon. Any and all help will be appreciated.
Also, this truck is a long bed. Are these more desirable or less desirable?
Old 10-01-2011, 08:14 AM
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i have a 05 dodge quad cab diesel 2500 2 wheel drive with 52K miles and its been a great truck.

plenty of power and comfortable ride, mama even likes to drive it,
great truck, very good mpg.

just do the normal check, take it to a frontend shop as i have heard the frontends on the 4x4 may require some servcie, as they no longer install grease zerks on the moving parts.

its hard to find a used dodge diesel truck with low miles,
they are good hard working trucks that get good fuel mileage and people just keep them until they have high mileage.

just read on the forum and listen to them cry when they trade the older models off for the new models with all the epa crap
Old 10-01-2011, 09:09 AM
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The only thing I can think of besides the normal checks on a vehicle would be to look at the map sensor etc where you hook a box up. If the connectors are clean as if they have been handled recently and the rest of the motor is dirty it has probably been chipped. That is not a horrible thing but I would rather purchase a stock truck.

If you do go with a 3rd gen cummins keep the fuel clean clean clean. I would run some extra caterpillar 2micron filter or something.
Old 10-01-2011, 11:08 AM
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There was the fuel pump issue but I would guess at your mileage it's already had the update. 2004.5 had the 325HP engine compared to early 2004's were at 300.
Old 10-01-2011, 12:53 PM
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There were significant changes made a mid-year 2004. That's why you'll see a lot of references to 04.5 in this forum. As Redrammer99 alluded to, there was an HP bump with 04.5. I believe torque was increase as well. Some would prefer the earlier model as it did not have a catalytic converter and third injection event which were added along with the increased HP/TQ. Yes, the lift pump is cannister mounted on all 04s. In fact, I don't think that was changed until 06 (when they moved it into the fuel tank). Don't assume that has been changed. If it goes out, you will have the choice to replace it or go to the in-tank model (I think I've read that it's about $700 for the conversion out of warranty). FWIW, I still have the stock one on mine at 60k. I'll probably just replace it when it goes out. If you plan to add any power upgrades that require more fuel delivery, you'll want to go with an aftermarket setup anyway. A/C blend doors plague most of the model years. I can't think of any other model-year specific issues. Have the trans checked if you can as this is can be a costly repair if it was mistreated. Also, check to see if you have white smoke at startup and rough idling as these are symptoms of bad injectors - another costly repair. You can also check ball joints, U joints, brakes, etc. Long bed uses the two-piece drive shaft, so you might consider upgrading to the one-piece shaft. There are many threads here about that. Good luck!
Old 10-02-2011, 07:30 PM
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how do I know?

Many have mentioned the fact of a change that occured in 04 that increases the HP and Torq. Is there a way that I might be able to determine if it is a 2004 or 2004.5? The serial number is 3D3KU28CX4G131548.
Also, is there a way that I can tell if the fuel pump issue that was described by Redrammer99 has been adressed or not?
Many thanks to all for your advice.
This truck appears to be very nice, but the dealer asking 4000 above NADA book also.
Old 10-02-2011, 07:45 PM
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The dealer should be able to run your VIN # and give you the built sheet with all options and what motor, and tell you if it is an 04 or 04.5 I had a dealer in Havasu city run the sheets for me, took about 2 minutes, also ask the dealer if the pump was put in the tank, that might be a bargaining point also. they were doing that on some of the older trucks, not sure how far back they were going, good luck
Old 10-02-2011, 08:13 PM
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http://www.compnine.com/vid.php

run the vend # on this site, it will tell you all about your truck
Old 10-03-2011, 09:36 AM
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Regarding the HP and witch engine version. If you look on the side of the valve cover it will tell you the engine HP and Torque. '03-'04 had something like 300HP 600lbs tq. '04.5 - '07 had 325HP 610lbs tq. It's not a big enough difference between the two to really matter. For towing it's all about the torque anyways. A mild programmer on either will make both these engines about the same.

What you need to look at more than anything is the overall general shape of the truck. With 89k it should be in great shape. My guess is a retired couple owned it to pull their 5'er around. Don't worry about it if they did. With these engines it's sometimes better if they were ran with a load than just to go get groceries.

Mine has 230k on it now. 2wd 2005 long bed. It replaced a Tundra ('06 Crew Cab 4.7 V8) that I was not happy with the towing handling and performance of. I had a 30ft travel trailer that would push the Tundra all around. I had sway control and a weight distribution hitch on it (back end would be to the ground without it) and it only 'improved' the sway but not to my comfort level.

Bought the '05 2500 used for a good deal and have never looked back. It's a completely different towing experience (same camper and hitch) than the 1/2 ton Tundra. Would average about 11mpg towing with the Cummings (vs 6.5 mpg with the Tundra). Oh, and the swaying and pushing issues were completely gone! I am completely relaxed now while towing, set the cruse and go! Stays in overdrive for almost all average Hwy hills (Tundra would downshift to 3rd or 2nd, and never saw 5th gear while towing).
Old 10-03-2011, 05:22 PM
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Well, I would want to be sure of exactly what I was buying. In early 04, there were 2 different engines available (Standard Output and High Output) - SO and HO. In California (and maybe a few other states that follow CA), only the SO was available for purchase as the HO was not certified here. The SO engine had only 250hp/460lbft. The HO had 305hp/555lbft. When the 04.5 came out, there was only one engine, the 325hp/600lbft and it was 50 state certified. Later, 2006 I believe, they re-rated the torque to 610lbft. Some believe this was a marketing ploy when the competitors starting upping their hp/tq numbers and that the torque was the same all along.

As others mentioned, check the sticker on the side of the valve cover. Also, 04.5 would have been equipped with a catalytic converter. If there is one, you have an 04.5. If not, keep checking because it still could be an 04.5. Some folks removed their cats thinking it improved performance/economy - and probably regretting it now that many states are smog testing diesels. The VIN should tell you as well. Good luck!
Old 10-06-2011, 12:08 AM
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noise at 1800 rpm

I went and test drove this 2004 2500 CTD today and it is a very nice truck with the exception that it has a vibration/buzz at about 1800 RPM, as soon as you get up to highway speed. You can feel it in the gas pedal and slightly in the floor board, kind of what a slight wheel bearing issue would feel like, although I noticed that it is RPM specific. What I mean is that every time you get into the 1800 RPM range whether it is 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear it has this "buzz". Slow down slightly or speed up slightly and it goes away.
Anybody with any ideas?
THNX
Old 10-07-2011, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jlsdcen2
I went and test drove this 2004 2500 CTD today and it is a very nice truck with the exception that it has a vibration/buzz at about 1800 RPM, as soon as you get up to highway speed. You can feel it in the gas pedal and slightly in the floor board, kind of what a slight wheel bearing issue would feel like, although I noticed that it is RPM specific. What I mean is that every time you get into the 1800 RPM range whether it is 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear it has this "buzz". Slow down slightly or speed up slightly and it goes away.
Anybody with any ideas?
THNX
get it checked by a mech before you buy,

i have a 2005 2-wheel drive and it is rock solid, with michelin tires. 52k miles
great truck

could be nothing but a tire out of round, out of round tires can not be fixed have to be replaced.

but you need to know what the problem is, before you offer money.

note: if they wanted top money, then they would get the truck fixed before someone took it for a test drive. Just my two cents:

I drove my truck and it vibrated, dealership put new tires on the front, deal was subject to my test drive before any money changed hands.
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