pet05

mitternocht -

Well, from my research. Looking over NUMEROUS posts about this issue, all the way back to 2005. It is from that data that I have concluded the following:

GDP Ladder Bars - They are TRUE Bolt-ons, fit perfectly, work perfectly (wheel-hop is GONE), the truck handles better.

The other systems like Tuff Country, while MUCH less in price, are NOT true bolt-ons (drilling and customizing IS REQUIRED), read Dodgezilla's comments, "
Well, I got one installed and then realized that it runs right between the overload spring and bumper. If I load the truck down I will bend the traction bar. The directions say they fit 2500 and 3500. I'm not sure what I'm gonna do!!"

You get what you pay for. Of all the posts I read, setups like Tuff Country and others do not stop wheel-hop completely. The GDP Ladder Bars got 100% rave reviews. NOBODY dis-liked them. Not only is that rare but there are very few products that get 100% satisfaction.

I ordered mine today.... Black Color (I like the "factory" look)


Can't wait to get them and install them....

Dodgezilla

Pet05 is correct. I'm just too cheap to pay for the GDP bars.... If you have a 2500 the Tuff Country bars should fit fine.

mitternocht

Thanks Pet05, those GDP bars look like the ticket, but man do they cost a mint.

I have the 2500 w/out the overload blocks like Dodgezilla's 3500, so I 'm going to try the Tuff Country bars for now. If they don't cut it I'll ebay them and save some funds for the GDP units.

JohnInNH

I don't see how the Tough Country bars can let your axle move up and down w/o it twisting or forcing the axle back. It appears to bind the suspension movement. Maybe I am just not visualizing it correctly...

The bar that is bolted to the frame then tied to the top of the spring pack appears to cause the axle to have to tip to accommodate the up and down movement when compressing and decompressing the suspension.

What am I missing?

ColdCase

I think the geometry approximates a 4 link suspension. Both the front part of the spring and traction rod are the same length and the relative distance of the frame and axle attaching points are the same so you end up with something like a parallelogram (4 link suspension). Where a ladder will force the axle to rotate a bit as it moves up and down in relation to the frame (depends on length), the 4 link prevents the axle from rotating at all, or as much as the engineer desires.

The lower link is a spring with some flex, however, so there will be a bit of... well.. spring. Perhaps enough to allow the axle to wrap a bit under the right conditions. I think that’s why some still occasionally feel a bit of hop with this set up, where the ladder has no flex and therefore no hop. I'm guessing this traction bar works good enough because in order for the spring to wrap with the top fixed, it also need to move the axle forward or aft and between the spring and rod there is enough resistance to that movement.

Robert373

I am in the process of building a set of ladder bars that are the same general idea as the GDP ones. My truck suffers from wheel hop, and a severe case of launch shudder so I've come to the conclusion ladders bars are the best fix.

Considering the time, effort, and cost of materials, I am not surprised how much GDP wants for thier bars. Designing a true bolt on set like their's is time consuming, and they look top notch.

Dodgezilla

Rubber bushings on both ends.....

Robert373

I am putting a heim up front. Bushings where the bars attach to the diff. I also changed the brackets quite a bit, both front and rear. The front mount is totally different.

I like the idea of having the vibration dampening the bushings should provide, and a some flex up front with the heim joint.

mitternocht

Got my Tuff Country bars on. Now I just have to find some snow. This hop thing is ridiculous. I guess I missed the vote when they turned ¾ ton work trucks into smooth riding soccer mom vehicles.

Dodgezilla

I've got my modified ones on too but haven't had a chance to test them out. One thing I have noticed is that the rear suspension is much stiffer and bounces around alot more if I hit a bump in the road.. I have been running my tires at the max ever since I towed my trailer to Mississippi and I need to air them back down a bit. Hopefully that will help some....

bkrukow

Every RWD vehicle I have ever driven or riden in will wheel hop in the snow. It is not limited to our trucks. It is espesaly bad in wet heavy snow but any deep snow will do it. Its just the nature of the snow. It seems to me that it happens more at low tire speeds. If I just goos it harder it usaly goes away. Never thought of it as a problem with the truck, just the nature of snow and how it compreses then breaks loose and such forth.

Rough-n-Ready

Every truck that I've ever had has done this from time to time in certain conditions. It is caused by an intermittent loss of traction. Doing anything to get more traction and keeping it will help. (Better tires, trac bars, more weight in the bed) Pickup trucks generally do not get very good traction on the rear end because they are so light on the rear in comparison to the front. I simply keep a little extra weight in the bed in the winter time to help with the traction thing. Currently my 03 has the crap stock highway tread tires, so they don't cause hop much, they just spin and I get stuck.
Problem is finding tires that I like that will fit these 17" rims. My favorite tires are not made in 17's and there are no future plans to do so.

Dodgezilla

Nothing wrong with trying to correct the problem, is there????

mitternocht

DC could easily fix many of the problems/shortcomings of these trucks. They know about the sealed U-Joints, ball joints and what not. I’ve spoke to Engineers who say they would never work in the automotive industry since the automotive industry is over-driven by cost and schedule.

Anyway, yes it is satisfying fixing these problems ourselves, but not when the actual cost of the truck is North of $30K.