Ah, Noop, clean fluid + dirty fluid still = dirty fluid.

 

Once again, fluid is not dirty

 

As stated before, flushing the exchanger MAY not be enough. It may be worth taking to a radiator shop to have them check it out. Even if you flushed it, and some debris is still left in there you'd be getting these failures. They may have gotten enough out to remove any large blockages, meanwhile bits and pieces of grenaded transmission debris can break free at any point and time and ruin a sensor.

Also, you mentioned a few pieces of "fuzz" on the solenoid. You shouldn't have anything on the solenoid?! Is it possible the fuzz was from a rag when you wiped it down? Also, check the resistance and compare to new like someone else stated. If it checks out electrically, then it's a mechanical failure and something is plugging them up on you.

Shawn

 

Has these solenoids been updated/new design in the past? Just wondering if any updated part numbers.

 

Do not use a shop rag on a tranny.....use compressed air to clean.

 

I will check out the resistance, but this has been happening ever since I owned the truck not just now. Im tell all of you it is not debri.

 

No, it doesn't sound like it to me. This is going to one of those few times when it's something weird, not the usual stuff coming apart and self-destructing internally.

 

I went and dug the sensor out of the trash, 0 ohms, I dont have another one to compare it to but the spec for gm is 3.8-8 ohms. Does anyone know where I could get the spec for the dodge? Im just curious. For some reason the manual I was looking at for the dodge did not have a spec but the gm manual we had there did.

 

Can i dig this one back up. I am having a similar problem. My truck is eating transducers. I have a full DTT tranny with 100K on the clock. I had one transducer go out 10K ago, had a second one go out 1500 miles ago, and one that is going out now. I have searched the web till I am blue in the face with no luck. I have called and talke to DTT and they said that it is more than likely the ECM if the flid is clean, and they had a shop truck do the same thing. They said the the ECM on their shop truck had a burned circuit that was frying them. They recommend a new ECM and no more problems. I dont want to change the ECM not knowing that will acutally fix my problem but I am at my wits end.

 

Are you changing the transducer and solenoid both?

Are you sure its the transducer and not the solenoid?

There are upgraded parts for the solenoid but don't think there is anything for the transducer. The solenoid is really the troublesome part and since it and the transducer have to work together its sometimes hard to tell which is the culprit.

 

I have changed the transducer and the Solenoid at the same time and it does not help. I just changed the transducer tonight. As soon as I install it the tranny will go back to shifting fine. I will see how long this one will last.

 

I changed them both at the same time also some last 7K some last a little longer. I carry a spare with me at all times.

 

How about putting a volt meter on this truck and checking for ac voltage? AC voltage will do funny things and a bad alternator will give you ac voltage.

 

Badme,

Help me out. AC voltage? How and where do I check this. Thanks in advance.

Brad

 

Put your volt meter on ac voltage, preferably a low voltage setting because you should not have any and if you do it will be low voltage. Hook the meter up to the battery and see if you have any ac voltage. If you have more than a half a volt you need to find out why. If you do have ac voltage unhook the 12v to the alternator and see if it goes away.