I checked all the wiring tonight and everything looked good, when the tranny was put in we put all new solenoids in it, the tranny guy I talked to tonight thought that a voltage problem might be doing it and suggested a resistor be put inline to help it out. The suggestion was that maybe one of my accesories might be causing voltage loss or spikes in the system. He has done this before. I just wanted to get other peoples opinion because I do not know the guy very well and I like hearing other opinions before I made a decision on what to do. I would like to talk to someone that has used the heavy duty solenoid listed in the post above to see if it worked out for them. I tow commercial and really need my truck to be dependable.

 

Did I not read about a metal screen filter, because the OEM did not fit your conversion. Go back to OEM filter and add extra magnet in pan to catch more metal. Make sure the filter is sealed by gasket where filter meets VB. Many people throw away the magnet, but it has a very important job of helping remove metal. Extra magnets will not hurt anything. Are you using ATF+4?? Not that I am a advocate of snake oils, but it has been suggested by others that some (slicker uppers) for valves in valve body help. JMHO

 

Just going out on a limb here, but what killed the first transmission? Failed converter or bands? If so, did you flush or replace the transmission cooler? If you didn't, all that debris probably got caught up in the cooler and can be plugging the solenoid up.

Just a thought? I know there were a lot of "if's" in there...

 

Those coolers get plugged or even partially plugged they kill transmissions.

 

The other tranny that was in it I had a new triple disc BD converter that failed, it would slip in OD. The system was flushed before the new one was put in. My stocker that was in it also ate them. The bd pan does have a magnet in it, I guess I could put another one in it. I just did not see hardly any debri in it last night when I pulled it apart.

 

By the way the tranny that was in it with the slipping converter did not eat any, it did not last long enough.

 

I've seen Dodge trucks of various year models go through two or three transmissions in a hurry.1000 to 3000 miles.Rebuilt and remans.When they came into the dealer I worked in I'd tell them off the jump street that we would NOT warranty any trans work unless radiator replaced and if rubber lines them also.All metal lines flushed thoroughly.Every one I ever saw that had gone through transmissions had stopped up coolers and all had been flushed.Nissan had a TSB that ANY transmission replacement had to have a radiator replacement or no warranty.Only way I know of to know if cooler is clogged is for a radiator shop to open it up.I knew a 1999 1500 360 truck that over a 70k time frame had 5 trans repairs.Eaither fixed or factory remans.Differant shops and two differant owners and they eaither didn't know the history or assumed flushing the cooler was enough.We replaced the trans and radiator and I saw that truck for about another 30k with no issues.

 

If I had a cooler restriction or it being plugged wouldn't it create heat? I cant get the thing to even move the needle on my auto meter tranny temp guage, after 7k miles the fluid looked great, still dont explain a sensor failure.

 

As everyone has said. You have trash in the system somewhere. You may need to replace the tranny cooler and heat exchange. You may even need to drop the VB and throughly clean. When the TC went out that should of been done at that time. All tht clutch material went through your tranny.First I would do a complete 16 qt. fluid exchange and see what happens. You may get lucky.

 

Your right about the heat.As I mentioned before about strange shifting and issues that I've been told a fluid exchange has corrected on some at dealer level and Spooler mentioned about trash etc.I'd hook her up o a BG machine and swap out ALL the fliud.I think a fliud exchange is good for 95% total exchange.Cheap try compared to tearing it down and coolrs replaced etc.

 

Also, are you re-using the fluid when you R&R the solenoids or adding new every time? I would think that if you're adding new every time the fluid would be flushed by now...

As far as adding the resistor, to me it seems that that would add a constant voltage drop to the solenoid circuit. On second thought, you may be able to tell if you are burning out the solenoids or if they are mechanically failing. If you still have your old ones, measure the resistance between all the pins and compare them to a new one. If the resistance is different between the failed and new, they are failing electrically. If it is the same they are failing mechanically.

 

I'll throw some more info I found on here for you... more things to check:

NUMBER: 21-001-04

GROUP: Transmission

DATE: February 10, 2004

SUBJECT:
Transmission Solenoid Replacement

MODELS:

2004 (AN) Dakota
2004 (DR) Ram Truck
2004 (CS) Pacifica
2004 (JR) Stratus/Sebring
2004 (PL) Neon
2004 (PT) PT Cruiser
2004 (RS) Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country
2004 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets)

NOTE: This Bulletin Applies To Vehicles Equipped With 41TE, 42RLE or 45RFE Transmissions.

DISCUSSION:

When servicing an automatic transmission on any of the vehicles listed above, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) displayed relating to transmission solenoids, may be misleading. The following DTC's: P0755, P0750, P0760, P0765, P0770, P2706, could be displayed indicating solenoid faults when the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is actually at fault. If any of these DTC's are encountered, Check the Powertrain Control Module manufacture date. The date is shown in the Module Serial Number on the label attached to the front of the module. The serial number is a 14 digit alpha numeric code which is located on the bottom of the part label. A sample of the number is shown below:

MODULE S/N T65EH2333D55N6

The manufacture date code is shown in the 6th through 9th digits. In this case the manufacture date code would be: H235 3 (Day of the Year - Year) day 235 of year 2003. If any of these DTC's are present and the PCM manufacture date code is between H2313 and H2393 The fault is likely to be in the PCM. Replace the PCM and check for any other DTC's before replacing the solenoids. The "H" in the code indicates modules built in Huntsville. This bulletin applies only to Huntsville Modules.

POLICY
Information only.

Disclaimer This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair.

 

Not sure if this will help much or not, but I just posted a schematic for the transmission control circuitry in my gallery.

 

Thank you Crimedog I will check it out since there is no trash or cooling problems. When the tc went out valve body was pulled, whole tranny gone through again, heat exchanger and cooler flushed. Pulled back apart last night, no trash in the pan, had a few small peices of fuzz on the solenoid. I will say this again NO TRASH IN COOLING SYSTEM and NO COOLING PROBLEMS. So Im trying to look elsewhere for the problem.

 

Crimedog I tried to check out the schematic and It is still pending approval. So I will check it out later. Thanks again for the help