I've been thinking about removing my box and then adding power via mechanical methods, no electronics. When I say power I'm talking about and extra 100 h.p. max at the wheels with the goal of making towing a 16,000 lb 5th wheel a bit easier. I understand some modifications would benefit the drag racer or sled puller also, but ultimately my goal is to make useable power while towing a large load.

Obviously gauges and transmission improvements are advisable, if not mandatory, so no need to get to hung up on these.

I'm interested in what's the best path to take to get my '06 to an additional 100 r.w.h.p. or so. After a freer flowing intake and exhaust, do I go with injectors? A larger turbo? A new camshaft? What are your thoughts?


Arrgghh, I think I should have put this in the performance forum...

 

Id do studs, injectors and a turbo upgrade
Might be a little more than 100hp more, but if you have the money, might as well go for broke....

 

Only things I can think of is cam, injectors and a bigger turbo.
The question you will have to ask yourself is it worth the price tag for just 100hp using these mods?

MikeyB

 

Especially when and EZ or Quad box will give you 100hp+ for under $500 and less than 30 min. of your time.

(also easy to remove for warranty work).

 

I thought about doing the same thing so I wouldn't be messin' with the puter but then I decided the fuel program needed more help than the injectors, so I got the Predator. Don't forget the transfer pump! Craig

 

A manifold will help a little.

 

When should the head bolts be replaced with studs? 40 p.s.i.? 50 p.s.i.? 60 p.s.i.?

Do 60 h.p. injectors net 60 h.p. on an otherwise stock truck? Or will those gains only be realised when used in conjunction with other modifications?

What king of power can be had with an upgrade to a slightly larger turbo? How about with a moderately larger turbo? Finally, with a much larger turbo? And will these turbos work with stock injectors? Or do you need X h.p. injectors to fuel a specific size turbo?

 

I realise boxes and programmers will get the job done quicker and cheaper. I'll take that into consideration if/when the time comes.

 

i would def do a manifold and a turbo for towing

 

Id do studs above 50-55psi, just for piece of mind....
Heck, id do it if you upgrade the turbo anyway, why risk it?

I think the power gains from injectors are in conjunction with other mods, but maybe ask some of the injector guys on here...

You could probably still get away with the stock injectors as long as you have an aftermarket fuel pump(think I saw glacier pump in your sig) and keep the box on, just to add more fuel...
But depending on what, and where you pull, I would base the turbo descion off that, if you are in the mountains, something on the larger side might lug some, but you also dont want something thats too small and you arent really gaining any power for the money you put into buying a new turbo...
Id maybe just go with a sp62/14, maybe a little bit larger, stock injectors for now, studs, see where your at, maybe think about water/meth if youll be towing real heavy to keep the EGTs down...

 

Yeh I think this is in the wrong forum but...I see where your going with this...I think...RELIABLE TOWING POWER???. I frequently pull heavy (10k unloaded, 30kmax load) 5ers around the S.west. (mountains and traffic) and I could always use more power but reliability is what makes me money. I am very sceptical about using a programmer or fooler to make more power for towing.....more power = more heat, what good is 500hp if I can't use it all up a grade?? (well I know the awnser, it's fun, but I gotta WORK for a living). Even stock, pulling a moderate load (15-20k) up a grade, WOT my egt's and coolant temps will be on the rise until I downshift or back off the skinny. That's why I never even though of modding it, I need reliable, 100% duty cyle power which, I think is what you are after. Here is the thought train that has kept my CTD's stock;

a) These CTD 600 engines flat out romp while towing, and are by no means underpower for SAFELY pulling around 30k+ trailers. Specially when compared to other light duty trucks (furd,cheby).

b)The speed limit is 55mph, I don't pull much faster than 65. tickets are expencive and tires get hot and go BOOM (even new ones!!!).

c)Fuel is also expencive, I don't want to watch it billowing out the tail pipe while it simutaniously melts the manifold to the side of the block.

d)These engines are already using about the biggest radiator, intercooler that can fit in the truck so I don't logically see how you can get much more RELIABLE towing power out of CTD without cooling modifications.

BUT...the water/meth injection is something I have looked into along with a larger turbo and intake/exgaust mods and they look fairly promising for relieable power, but instead I think I'll leave it stock and spend my money on a SMARTY for my 06, yeya smokeclouds!!!! (all it hauls is the sleazzy girly's that I meet at the local bars & shows!!!!!).

 

I think you understand where I'm coming from. I'm not a street racer, drag racer or sled puller. I like to hook up the trailer and drive a couple hours to the Sierras or the beach, setup camp, through back a couple quick frosty ones, then go fishing! Like everyone else, I love the power these tuners/modules make, but I'd rather have it made by something that doesn't tap into my trucks wiring. Electrical gremlins are edited by admin to fight, and unfortunately, sometimes the gremlins come with the tuner.

I think what I'd like is to install a quality set of 60 h.p. injectors (and I will if I ever have a failure of the stockers) and a larger turbo that is a good compromise between moving lots of air and controlling EGTs (that stretch of 395 between Bishop and Mammoth is long and step) and spooling up relatively quickly, and be done with it. If I was made of money it would be done!

 

Flux 1s and a HTB2 turbo. Better mileage and a nice power gain, safely.....

 

Banks makes an intercooler. It may be bigger, but it certainly flows much better and cools the truck off better.

 

On modern vehicles, any physical modification should have a corresponding modification in engine management.

Doing physical mods only was a fine way of doing business back in the 1970's, when engines didn't rely on computers to monitor and run everything. Now, anytime a physical mod is done, it changes the parameters of operation and can actually make the engine run less efficiently if the engine management isn't changed to match the physical mod.

Exhaust and final drive gearing are potential options that wouldn't cause much havoc. Smaller wheels and tires and lower gearing for more final drive torque? Lose the muffler?

IMHO, changing the turbo and injectors without modifying engine management for the changes is dangerous, expensive, and inefficient.