Locking hubs for $1000!!!!!!!!!!
#16
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 0
From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
#18
- Less drag on the front end because the differential and front driveshaft aren't constantly turning and the wheels are free spinning on their own.
- Front wheel bearing replacement only costs maybe $20 -$30 per wheel compared to $300 - $400+ per wheel for unit bearings.
- U-joints don't where out as fast and last a lot longer.
- Don't have to change the differential fluid as regularly.
- Probably won't have to worry about replacing the pinion seal on the front differential.
- You'll effectively have 2wd low (great for use on hard surfaces, great for backing up a trailer, especially for stick guys), because the front wheels will be allowed to be completely free.
- You'll have the option (as opposed to forced by Dodge w/ the unit bearings), of "shift-on-the-fly" 4WD, if you want it than just lock the hubs before you leave the house and you'll never have to get out when you need it.
- Less steering input is needed to turn the wheel, and subsequently it'll be slightly easier on steering components over all.
Anything else I forgot to mention?
- Front wheel bearing replacement only costs maybe $20 -$30 per wheel compared to $300 - $400+ per wheel for unit bearings.
- U-joints don't where out as fast and last a lot longer.
- Don't have to change the differential fluid as regularly.
- Probably won't have to worry about replacing the pinion seal on the front differential.
- You'll effectively have 2wd low (great for use on hard surfaces, great for backing up a trailer, especially for stick guys), because the front wheels will be allowed to be completely free.
- You'll have the option (as opposed to forced by Dodge w/ the unit bearings), of "shift-on-the-fly" 4WD, if you want it than just lock the hubs before you leave the house and you'll never have to get out when you need it.
- Less steering input is needed to turn the wheel, and subsequently it'll be slightly easier on steering components over all.
Anything else I forgot to mention?
#19
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 0
From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
- Less drag on the front end because the differential and front driveshaft aren't constantly turning and the wheels are free spinning on their own.
- Front wheel bearing replacement only costs maybe $20 -$30 per wheel compared to $300 - $400+ per wheel for unit bearings.
- U-joints don't where out as fast and last a lot longer.
- Don't have to change the differential fluid as regularly.
- Probably won't have to worry about replacing the pinion seal on the front differential.
- You'll effectively have 2wd low (great for use on hard surfaces, great for backing up a trailer, especially for stick guys), because the front wheels will be allowed to be completely free.
- You'll have the option (as opposed to forced by Dodge w/ the unit bearings), of "shift-on-the-fly" 4WD, if you want it than just lock the hubs before you leave the house and you'll never have to get out when you need it.
- Less steering input is needed to turn the wheel, and subsequently it'll be slightly easier on steering components over all.
Anything else I forgot to mention?
- Front wheel bearing replacement only costs maybe $20 -$30 per wheel compared to $300 - $400+ per wheel for unit bearings.
- U-joints don't where out as fast and last a lot longer.
- Don't have to change the differential fluid as regularly.
- Probably won't have to worry about replacing the pinion seal on the front differential.
- You'll effectively have 2wd low (great for use on hard surfaces, great for backing up a trailer, especially for stick guys), because the front wheels will be allowed to be completely free.
- You'll have the option (as opposed to forced by Dodge w/ the unit bearings), of "shift-on-the-fly" 4WD, if you want it than just lock the hubs before you leave the house and you'll never have to get out when you need it.
- Less steering input is needed to turn the wheel, and subsequently it'll be slightly easier on steering components over all.
Anything else I forgot to mention?
#20
- Less drag on the front end because the differential and front driveshaft aren't constantly turning and the wheels are free spinning on their own.
- Front wheel bearing replacement only costs maybe $20 -$30 per wheel compared to $300 - $400+ per wheel for unit bearings.
- U-joints don't where out as fast and last a lot longer.
- Don't have to change the differential fluid as regularly.
- Probably won't have to worry about replacing the pinion seal on the front differential.
- You'll effectively have 2wd low (great for use on hard surfaces, great for backing up a trailer, especially for stick guys), because the front wheels will be allowed to be completely free.
- You'll have the option (as opposed to forced by Dodge w/ the unit bearings), of "shift-on-the-fly" 4WD, if you want it than just lock the hubs before you leave the house and you'll never have to get out when you need it.
- Less steering input is needed to turn the wheel, and subsequently it'll be slightly easier on steering components over all.
Anything else I forgot to mention?
- Front wheel bearing replacement only costs maybe $20 -$30 per wheel compared to $300 - $400+ per wheel for unit bearings.
- U-joints don't where out as fast and last a lot longer.
- Don't have to change the differential fluid as regularly.
- Probably won't have to worry about replacing the pinion seal on the front differential.
- You'll effectively have 2wd low (great for use on hard surfaces, great for backing up a trailer, especially for stick guys), because the front wheels will be allowed to be completely free.
- You'll have the option (as opposed to forced by Dodge w/ the unit bearings), of "shift-on-the-fly" 4WD, if you want it than just lock the hubs before you leave the house and you'll never have to get out when you need it.
- Less steering input is needed to turn the wheel, and subsequently it'll be slightly easier on steering components over all.
Anything else I forgot to mention?
As far as installation. Is it something that could be done by a "shade tree" on a weekend?
Also looking at the website there are a few options o the bottom.... Which ones are needed for a 3rd Gen swap? All of it if your not supplying parts right?
If so 1700+ doesn't seem like that good of a deal to get s little better mpg and cheaper bearings. It would take alot of miles to get these to pay for them selfs.
#22
Humm. I will be keeping an eye out of feedback for these. Hope they do well the first go around.
As far as installation. Is it something that could be done by a "shade tree" on a weekend?
Also looking at the website there are a few options o the bottom.... Which ones are needed for a 3rd Gen swap? All of it if your not supplying parts right?
If so 1700+ doesn't seem like that good of a deal to get s little better mpg and cheaper bearings. It would take alot of miles to get these to pay for them selfs.
As far as installation. Is it something that could be done by a "shade tree" on a weekend?
Also looking at the website there are a few options o the bottom.... Which ones are needed for a 3rd Gen swap? All of it if your not supplying parts right?
If so 1700+ doesn't seem like that good of a deal to get s little better mpg and cheaper bearings. It would take alot of miles to get these to pay for them selfs.
#23
#24
Humm. I will be keeping an eye out of feedback for these. Hope they do well the first go around.
As far as installation. Is it something that could be done by a "shade tree" on a weekend?
Also looking at the website there are a few options o the bottom.... Which ones are needed for a 3rd Gen swap? All of it if your not supplying parts right?
If so 1700+ doesn't seem like that good of a deal to get s little better mpg and cheaper bearings. It would take alot of miles to get these to pay for them selfs.
As far as installation. Is it something that could be done by a "shade tree" on a weekend?
Also looking at the website there are a few options o the bottom.... Which ones are needed for a 3rd Gen swap? All of it if your not supplying parts right?
If so 1700+ doesn't seem like that good of a deal to get s little better mpg and cheaper bearings. It would take alot of miles to get these to pay for them selfs.
Well, I look at it in 2 ways for justifying the cost.
1 - You wait until you have to replace your unit bearings anyway and buy the kit at that time because your already going to spend close to 1k for unit bearings. Also while your down there replacing the bearings you should, at the least, replace the u-joints too, so that adds even more to justifying the cost.
or
2- You buy the kit as soon as possible, (or possibly when it's brand new), and your there by already investing in not having to pay the price for unit bearings in the future. If you install the kit right away than you would also be preventing the wearing out and cost of replacing u-joints, the driveshaft cv-joint, gear fluid, or (possibly) pinion seals, and any other front end wear items at the normal intervals that you would with unit bearings.
IMO, installing a free spinning hubs kit is an investment that every owner of a 3rd Gen should invest in. While yes it is an expensive up front cost, the benefits of it will add up, especially if you plan to keep your truck for a long time, which personally, I do.
#25
I guess that kind of makes sense. As I do plan on keeping my truck until it rusts into a million peices. I may just have to keep this in mind once I am due for a new front end.
Any idea why the stock setup costs 300 bucks for the bearings vs the 30 bucks that these use? Is there anything special about them?
Any idea why the stock setup costs 300 bucks for the bearings vs the 30 bucks that these use? Is there anything special about them?
#26
Just something to keep in mind,
Although the Dyantrac kit is a bit more than others, they use the best materials available and build most of it in house. They also are not going anywhere. Most of the other kits out there have had many availability issues and or have went out of business and then re-appeared. My concern would be saving a few $$$ and then having now support or replacement part availablility down the road. I have no doubt that the Ballistic stuff will be quality but by the time you piece it all together I am not sure that you will be saving much in the long run.
Although the Dyantrac kit is a bit more than others, they use the best materials available and build most of it in house. They also are not going anywhere. Most of the other kits out there have had many availability issues and or have went out of business and then re-appeared. My concern would be saving a few $$$ and then having now support or replacement part availablility down the road. I have no doubt that the Ballistic stuff will be quality but by the time you piece it all together I am not sure that you will be saving much in the long run.
#27
If the price is anywhere close to Dynatrac, get the Dynatrac. The people are there to answer questions and it is not a small place, I've been there. The co is going to be around for a long, long time. If all mods went as well and were built as well as their products it would be a better world, built here in the USA.
#28
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...t_p_1714.html#
a really top notch company. if I was in the market I would purchase BFs kit for sure.
a really top notch company. if I was in the market I would purchase BFs kit for sure.
#30
$1000 is for the bare bones kit... you chase down lockouts, studs, nuts, etc.
seems this kit is same price or higher than the proven EMS kits
prefer steel hubs vs aluminum hubs for a structural part.
but it's early yet... the aluminum hubs may prove to be just as durable as steel ones.
with only a one year warranty... wouldn't want to be the guinea pig.
seems this kit is same price or higher than the proven EMS kits
prefer steel hubs vs aluminum hubs for a structural part.
but it's early yet... the aluminum hubs may prove to be just as durable as steel ones.
with only a one year warranty... wouldn't want to be the guinea pig.