From what I've gathered from here, and other sites, the 15,000 isn't that much better than the 12,000.

If I remember correctly, the 15,000 has a different motor that is more prone to overheating and has a much slower line speed.

The price difference between the two doesn't justify the weight difference either.

The 12K and a ****** block will run circles around the 15K.

If a 12K can't get you unstuck, the 15K won't be able to either.

Also, the rule with winches is once you get one you'll never use it for self recovery, but to pull others out.

As soon as finances allow, I have a bumper just waiting for a 12K.


phox

 

I've had a winch on every 4x4 I've own since 1985. I’ve used it to pull myself out maybe 3 or 4 times. The other 100 times I've used it was to pull other people (read a chevy) out. I will say this. The 3 or 4 times used for self recovery more than made up for the price of admission. You’d be surprised how far back into the middle of nowhere you can get with a good quality LS in both axles.

 

Since i am stuck with what i have in relation to my drivetrain, does everone agree that the light application of the emergency brake is the proceedure to help the situation along to get power to the non spinning wheel? Until i get a winch which means modifying the bumber and all of that other fun stuff, I am trying to prpare myself for the next time i get stuck.

Thanks for the physics lessons guys, i forgot how much that stuff hurt my head all of those years ago in college.

 

[quote author=majordad link=board=20;threadid=18269;start=30#msg172458 date=1060871914]
Since i am stuck with what i have in relation to my drivetrain, does everone agree that the light application of the emergency brake is the proceedure to help the situation along to get power to the non spinning wheel? Until i get a winch which means modifying the bumber and all of that other fun stuff, I am trying to prpare myself for the next time i get stuck.

Thanks for the physics lessons guys, i forgot how much that stuff hurt my head all of those years ago in college.
[/quote]

Personaly I ride the regular foot brake, because it works in the front as well as the bag, and I have been doing this for a long time. Well I guess that is what I use to do, now I just push 2 buttons on the dash and lock the front and back in and letter fly. You either go forward or down, either way you are moving :P

I haven't really tried out the LSD in the dually because I have no desire to take it any where close to off road, got other vehicles for that. I did get it stuck once though trying to pull 22,000# worth of trailer into a soft field. All 4 tires of the dually were spining.

 

Using the standard brake will cause the fronts to brake also which is going to be adding to the resistance you must overcome in getting out. If you are in this situation I would think you would want to minimize those things that are stopping your forward momentum, not adding to them. The ebrake would just be effecting the rears and would be the best way to get a LS that is spinning one wheel to apply more torque to the wheel with traction.

 

Yes but if you are stuck and only one back tire is spinning then I guarantee that only one front tire is spinning. By using the regualar brake you are also using the same idea to get both front tires to spin. Their isn't realy any more resistance beacuse the engine power is over coming the brakes, unless you are using way too much brake.

Trust me

 

a guy that I know that has a powerstroke had a 12,000lb winch on his truck and upgraded to the 15,000lb about 2 months ago. He intentionally got stuck in the same spot that he did with the 12,000. The 12,000 wouldn't pull him out, but the 15,000 did, this is what he tells me. He loves his 15,000. I know a couple of other guys with the 15,000 and they are happy with them.

 

I'd use the regular brake, because you don't have enough hands and feet to use the ebrake while your trying to keep and eye on what's going on outside your truck.

 

Strange, my emergency brake stays put after applying, leaving both legs free to work other pedals! And I try never to use my hands to activate the ebrak at all. ???

 

I don't think you understand the procces of how this works. You can't just through the E brake on and expect both tires to spin.

What you want to do is get the tires slowly spining and the gently add brake untill the resitance get both tires to spin. Then you need to add gas to get more wheel speed if needed and adjust brake pressure as needed to control traction.

To be realistic to everyone this is going to work in very few situations. It work best in off camber situations where one tire may be off the ground or have very little pressure on it but the other tire has good traction. In the mud if you are already stuck this is like not going to get you out, can evey get you more stuck when you get all 4 tires dug down.

 

Hey Mopar Mudder, it sounds like you take your truck offroad. To make matters worse, lockers F&R, aggressive tires, and soupy mud equals a really bad stuck. It is a good way to dig to China. Good offroad driving involves constant adjustment to what your truck is doing, so a set ebrake just doesn't work.

OT - I buried my Mog this past weekend on a 6+ hour recovery effort for two dead vehicles. Dug down a good 24+ inches with a dead Jeep strapped to the hitch. Pulled about 150 ft of cable and had the PTO wich do the work. Sweet. 8)

 

I rode in a jeep last weekend on mountian trails and was 4x4 but with automatic locking rear diff. It was insane what that thing could do in 2wd and it just had a 4inch skyjacker and bf all terrains.It was so good on trails that it reminded me more of a 4wd without locking rears. Does anyone make a autolocking rear diff for a 2005 dually?

 

why can I cause the inside rear tire to slip @ the ground under power turning a corner on the pavement? It will act just like the LS in the second gens, under power the limited slip will try to keep both tires turning together. the AAMs in the 3rd gens are clutchless, they are similar to the torsens that are used in hummers. the Torsens in the hummers use the brake (both axles are LS) to get the diffs to work if there is no resistance to the spinning wheel.

 

Back a few years ago I had a Chevy sb 4X4 (yea I had a chevy and loved it)...

It came from the factory with a Gov lock system.. I kept locking on the street and it just kept Breaking with the 40" Tires. The Gov lock had a few sliding plates on a gear driven spring that would lock the spider gears.. It would lock and get stuck and eventually break when even traction was applied and the truck was turned.. I switched it out to an Eaton Posi unit... Great working Old technology !!!! Just clutches and springs... After several spring changes to adjust it for street driving it was one of the Best things I did for the truck.. WOrked great to commute and great for the weekend off road trip...

I have never had experiances with the manual lockers But I think my choice would be another Eaton Posi unit..

 

You can have 'eleventeen wheel drive' with 'megalockers' and may not do as well as someone with 2wd that has good tires, but the nose heavy diesels do seem to benefit a lot from other traction aids. The LSD in the Dodge is similar to the one in the Hummers and HumVees, and they too may need some brake applied to start working. I'd first make sure that the tires are matched for worst case conditions, and then rely on 4WD, LSD, lockers, chains, etc. as 'defense in depth'.