The intanks are known to work better and last much longer, but IMO I would do a Water/Air separator just for the added benefits, so in case an external one.

 

Bark:

I've read a post by a Dodge service man who said the internal ones they install are never returned. The only negatives I've read are from truck owners who want a higher pressure pump. The internal one is reported to provide adequate volume for a stock engine but not at a significantly higher pressure which may be required by a modified engine, or , by someone who would like greater pressure and flow to provide more cooling/lubrication to the injector pump.

 

I had the in tank installed in my stock 04.5 when my external LP gave up before 50K. I didn't have a fuel pressure Gage with the old pump but I get about 9 psi with the in tank and have never seen it drop below 8 psi when stepping on it. I only have about 25K on the in tank so we will see.
They would not let me keep the old sender/canister unit, I asked a few times but they insisted it would have to be returned for the warranty charges?

 

Thanks for the input guys. Guess I just like being able to get to the pump without dropping the tank. Guess Ill wait to see how Chinook9's install goes. Than make a decision. Question: So If I understand correctly, when they do the conversion under warranty they wind up taking the whole fuel filter/water sep setup. If so what do they put in its place?

 

Bark, well the deed is done and I only had to cuss at one point.

First, when I said previously that the tubing was loose at the pump I was wrong. What was loose was a tubing cover designed to protect the fuel line that is permanently attached to the pump. The pump actually consists of the pump itself and about 20” of attached tubing that goes down and connects to a quick-disconnect fitting. Geno’s provides the pump, two pieces of preformed tubing, clamps, a pre-filter, and a quick disconnect fitting to replace the factory assembly.

The job took a little over an hour and was pretty easy, facilitated by removal of the wheel well. The only tools I needed were the socket for the wheel well screws, an allen wrench, and a pair of pliers for the clamps. Having a variety of short extension lengths for the allen wrench was helpful getting into the tight spaces around the pump. I also needed some Loctite.

The cussing came about while trying to slide the last tubing clamp up to the pump which I had already installed. There is very little room and I could not hold the clamp with the pliers. The cussing ceased after, using my trusty Dremel tool, I ground two slots in the jaws of an old pair of pliers. The clamp was easy to hold with the slots in the pliers and the job was complete.

If I were in your situation I'm not sure what I would do. For $180 I would probably go ahead and buy the pump kit just as insurance. If you don’t use it you can always sell it on eBay. If I still have this truck in a couple of years I’ll buy another kit just in case.

 

Thanks for the rundown. It does sound like its something I wouldnt want to do on the side of the road. Hopefully the LP was your only problem (sounded like it). Dang, with 72,000 I know mine has a very good chance of failing so I gotta decide if I want the in-tank (under warranty +$100 if they go for it) or spend the $90 extra and get the one from Geno's. Anyway, glad you are on the road again.