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Is it a Lift Pump Problem?

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Old 07-06-2008 | 07:08 PM
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From: Loveland, Colorado
Is it a Lift Pump Problem?

I have a 2003 with 104,000 miles on it. Yesterday evening I had my very first problem.

A few seconds after I started it, it just died. I waited 10-15 seconds and tried again, and she started right up and we took off. Ran fine for 2-3 miles and the engine just died. I pulled over to the side of the road, waited about 10 seconds, she started right up and we took off again.

I initially thought I was out of fuel, with a faulty gauge so I filled up but she only took 15 gallons so that wasn't it.

Since then I have driven about 12 miles and she died twice in that time, starting immediately after a 10 - 15 second wait. All this driving was on local city roads at 30-45 mph. When she dies, I put her in neutral.

Two questions:

Is this most likely to be the lift pump?

If so, what's the most economical alternative I can do myself? I don't want to do some relatively expensive aftermarket mod, but I also don't want to pay the dealer to install a new pump in the tank.

If I continue to drive it, is it most likely to toast the injector pump?
Old 07-06-2008 | 07:25 PM
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Chinook, yes that is most likely the lift pump.

My original external lift pump died on me at 10,000 miles and the symptoms were similar.

Reach around and put your hand on the lift pump. You can feel if it is running or not.
Or remove the filter lid. The cannister should be full of fuel.
Or open the fuel filter cannister drain & bump the starter. If the lift pump is running, fuel will shoot out of the drain hose.

These pumps are obsolete, not available from Dodge, but are still available from Cummins and other vendors including on Ebay.

Here is the cheapest I have found:

http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....UMP_FPD4089602

There are a ton of aftermarket options and solutions.

Depending on your truck's in service date & mileage, this is covered under the 5 year 100,000mile Dodge/Cummins warranty by Dodge.
They will install the intank pump but make sure you hang onto the original fuel tank cannister. It is valuable!!

...Joe
Old 07-06-2008 | 07:36 PM
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StealthDiesel did a good job of summarizing what I have seen on other posts regarding the LP so it sure sounds like that could be your problem (mine hasnt gone out yet). What I would really like to know is: Are you better off with the in-tank conversion or, is it better to keep with the external mount.
Old 07-07-2008 | 09:17 AM
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Thanks for the help.

Last night I checked and replaced the fuel filter and it was full of fuel. The pump didn't run when I tried last night but I went out this morning and it ran for the obligatory 2 seconds. Then I went ahead and ordered one from Geno's. I figure its probably the lift pump and even if its not, with 103,000 miles its good to have a spare one on hand.

I told Enterprise I needed a rental car replacement during an auto repair and was able to get them down from $42.99 to $22.99 a calendar day rate so it won't be too bad and will cost a lot less than paying the dealer to install the in-tank kit.

I think the in-tank may be better than replacing the original as I'm doing. I have read posts from servicemen who say the in-tank replacements never get returned, but if you look around you will read a lot of posts from people who don't like the low pressure it provides. Apparently the Dodge people state that It provides more than adequate volume at a low pressure.
Old 07-07-2008 | 11:34 AM
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Look for an 0628 code to confirm the lift pump problem. At that mileage you are definately on borrowed time anyway.

The in tank pump should be just fine for stock or mildly bombed power but a Walbro is better because it can be replaced easily if it ever goes out and you can do the work without dropping the tank.

Or you could just slip in a stock replacement and then get a spare to carry around for the next time. This might be the easiest, but probably the worst for overall reliability.
Old 07-07-2008 | 12:04 PM
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mine had the exact same symptoms when it died at 140k miles. i replaced with a FASS pump. and have been very happy.
Old 07-07-2008 | 12:28 PM
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A Raptor pump will replace that worn out pump just fine.
Old 07-07-2008 | 03:13 PM
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Let me know if you have any problems replacing it and if you think it could be changed on the road. Thinking about ordering that one from Geno's to have on hand. The price is right and I dont think I want the in-tank one.
Old 07-07-2008 | 05:15 PM
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Bark:

Will let you know how it goes. I should receive it Wednesday and expect to do it in my driveway Wednesday night or Thursday morning.
Old 07-07-2008 | 05:46 PM
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The original external lift pump is cake to change.

No need to even lift the truck. Drain a bit of fuel from the filter cannister 1st.
You will need an allen key or allen key socket to remove the 4 allen bolts that hold it in place.
Watch the O-ring that seals the pump to the filter cannister.

You can see the new pump kit includes a new pre-filter or strainer of some kind. That is a good idea to install also.

...Joe
Old 07-07-2008 | 07:21 PM
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After all of the trouble I went thru with my lift pump, I wish I had just installed a raptor 100 a long time ago. Your truck sounds like it is doing the same thing my truck did when the lift pump died. My truck is running great with the in-tank pump now but it would have been cheaper to change out the stock LP before it failed and left us stranded with the camper.
Old 07-07-2008 | 10:01 PM
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I would recomend anyone that still has the external lift pump on fuel filter housing to have it replaced. If under 100k miles would still be covered under Cummins warranty if found to be defective. Most of these pumps will fail the test for flow rate. Retrofit pump is install in fuel tank and includes a flash to update PCM. Most Dodge dealerships can do the test, why wait until your stuck on the side of the road. Recomend fuel filter change every 15k miles also.
Old 07-07-2008 | 11:53 PM
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From: Kenai Alaska
Thats what I keep getting confusing info on. Do I want the in-tank pump? Sounds like people are having good luck with a replacement external pump but if there is a real benifit to having the internal pump than Ill make sure old pump fails under warranty.
Old 07-08-2008 | 02:05 PM
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From: Loveland, Colorado
Just had a little surprise when I was cleaning the lift pump and surrounding area ready for the changeout tomorrow. There is no clamp on the tubing on the bottom of the pump so I checked because I thought it might be a really tight fit. Not so, I grabbed it with two fingers and I can move it up and down at least a quarter of an inch without any effort at all. Its so loose, I expect it could be sucking in a little air.

I would suggest to anyone who has one of these lift pumps to put a clamp on there.

Bark, why don't you just take yours into the dealer and tell him you had the problem as I described it. See if they'll go ahead and change it out. There aren't any codes so I don't see why they wouldn't take your word for it.

I called the local dealer service manager and described the symptoms. He said he thought I had it diagnosed right.
Old 07-08-2008 | 03:48 PM
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From: Kenai Alaska
The problem is, they would put the intank conversion in and I cant seem to get a clear idea if (in the long run) the intank is better than external. Seems if the intank goes bad while on a trip than you could really have problems esp if out of warranty.
ref the clamp: My truck is currently parked in CA so I cant see if I have a clamp or not. Cant believe they wouldnt put one on there.


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