Guy's I need help got home tonight and drivers side rear brake was hot.I let it cool down and took it apart.It appears that the caliper is no good.I pushed the pistons back i with a c clamp,and they both went in but when I press the brake pedal only 1 piston pushes back out.So I guess I need to replace the caliper?How hard is it to replace?I have done alot of work on cars and trucks but never replaced a caliper before.Any help is greatly appreciated.Rob. Also if I replace the drivers side should I replace the pass side also?What about the rotors the look fine only have 25000miles on truck.

 

Well I would start out by finding some Pre-Loaded calipers. I use Wagners. Bought from O'Reilly. They have a life time warranty, and the pre loaded pads are Wagner Thermos quiets. Its pretty easy. Unbolt the break line, take the 2 bolts out that hold the bracket and caliper not the slide pins them self. Bolt the new one up, connect the break line, then bleed the system. I have had 2 so far stick on me. I had the drive side front so hot when i poured water on it it instantly boiled the water off of the rotor. Reciently I had a rear one stick slightly, so I replaced it before it had real problems. Id also check your rotors and see if they need to be re-worked or need to buy new ones. Good luck!

 

If the truck isn't your daily driver, then this is a good time to learn how to overhaul calipers. It's fairly simple if you have some tools and a bit of mechanical G-2.

 

Don't overhaul yourself, cost of kit as much as caliper generally. Brother found a pair for less than $50 each. While you are at it, replace brake fluid. Don't push back into MC. Rear caliper failure seems more prevalant that front caliper failures now.

 

My right front stuck on me after driving through a puddle. We were in the sticks so I drove backwards hitting the brakes hard, it broke free and has never done it again. That was 8000k miles ago. I know I should still replace it but out of sight out of mind. Since you have yours off, replace it as they said above.

 

The biggest problem is usually the slides seizing, not the pistons themselves. They can be repaired without replacing the calipers, but it's labor-intensive and you might as well just replace the calipers. I recommend doing them in pairs.

 

i have a 2007 dodge 3500 4x4 diesel 6.7 i had a smarty jr me installed and i did away with dpf with no problems for a long time then i installed a aluminum flatbed wired lights to pickup wiring i trim the wire and split the wires in the middle and run the new wiring through the split wiring then twist around nice and tight works very nice all the lights worked as they should except when i start it up there is 1 ding, brake light,abs,check engine light stays on all the time, catylist full service req light on but goes off when i release the e brake, exhaust brake light will come on when i turn it on but brake wont work im guessing it has something to do with new lights may draw more watts i really dont know if i should be driving it thanks ken

 

You should start a new thread for this. The one you added this to is 3 years old about stuck brakes.

Check all your grounds, Bad or missing grounds will do all sorts of neat things.