Hey,

I finally found a good online price for the Jacobs-Mopar Exhaust Brake, hopefully it will be here by the end of the week.

I have only been able to find installation instructions that cover through the 2006 model year. I thought I would identify the wire for the switched power before I actually get the brake.

Anyone know if the switched power location (TIPM) and wire (Grey w/Pink in connector G) is the same on the 2006 and 2007 models?

Is it really necessary to remove the right front wheel to install the brake itself?

Any other tips from anyone doing this install are appreciated.


Thanks,

 

if you are talking about a jacobs,i did not remove the wheel on a 06,but did remove rt. battery to mount vac switch

 

i removed the wheel and it gave me alot of room to install the brake. it gets heavy after awhile. a helper would be handy too

brett

 

OT but how much do these cost?

 

Bought online for just over $1,000 including shipping. Local dealer quoted me over $1200, or $1800 installed! Decided to do the install myself and save $800.

Still OT...Local Cummins dealer would have done it for about $1350, but there is some strange agreements on what they can and can't do for the Dodge. He said if I had him put a Cummins Part in, it might void my Dodge warranty, and it is the exact same part as the Mopar part, made by Jacobs. His Cummins computer does not show the brake is available for on '07 5.9 The Cummins dealer was way cool about it but I did not want to take any chances with the warranty.

 

Try Here
http://www.hoeslidiesel.com/jacobs.htm

 

The instructions for the 06 are the same for the 07 and the wire colors are the same. it makes it much easier to remove the wheels and liners and it does not take that much longer. for me the worst part was removing and installing the belt, I was very careful and watched how I removed the old one, well I had a brain fart and tried for an hour get the belt around the fan. guess what it won't go without some wire cutters.

 

yeah the belt is no fun,doesn't go over fan but i had to loosen tensioner to get it by the block.could they have made it any harder?

 

I read the last couple of replies before heading off to bed. I wasn't quite sure what Ramyes meant. Then your reply and the light bulb went off. But I slept like crap thinking how could it not go around the fan? I went to work and at first break had to go pop the hood to have a look. Now I get it.

Thanks all, it was just the information I was looking for.

 

thats funny

 

Man after reading the belt install thread, https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...lt+replacement I am glad you fellas chimed in.

 

If I recall correctly, I got the belt off and on the alternator first/last and that seemed easier.

Also, though only the one battery has to come out to mount the electric valve, be sure to unhook the ground cable on the other battery before you pull any connectors.

There was a thread a while back where failure to do so resulted in the ECM doing funky things... but a reflash cured it.

 

Yep, gotcha on the battery disconnect. Thanks.

 

I looked into the Mopar/Jacobs brake, but couldn't find a decent deal. I surely didn't want to pay the dealer the $1800 I was quoted.

I ended up getting a PacBrake PRXB for $949 to my door...

Whether a Mopar Brake, PacBrake or BD brake, I think it's a great mod. Definitely wished I had purchased one for my '03!

The only similar part of the install that I have is the brake itself and power tap.

I did not remove the passenger side wheel, but I did pull both fender liners. I did not have a helper. When installing the clamps, make sure to torque the clamp on the turbo side first, then the downpipe! It's the best way to insure you have a good seal.

I did not want to use a scotchlock connector to tap switched power for the brake. I used a fuse tap and used fuse 32 (IIRC). If you look on the fuse diagram, there's a fuse that says "Exh Brake" and it works great. I used the same fuse as the stereo and power windows first with some unexpected results. Exh Brake fuse works much better...

Good luck, take your time, and have fun! So satisfying when that brake applies in OD, then the TC unlocks, throttle blips prior to engaging 3rd, TC reapplies and the truck slows to 22 on it's own. Awesome!

On edit:

Oops. Just read you have a manual. Even more braking power!

 

The Jacobs-Mopar/Cummins instructions call for obtaining power, for a relay I do believe, from a wire underneath the TIPM. Says to not cut the wire and solder the connection. I used to be able to solder quite well so I practiced on some spare pieces of wire. I think I have it...again. I hate the scotchlocks as well, especially anything outside the cab.

Thanks for the tips on the band tightening sequence.