I think I broke something.... :(
#16
2 subjects in one thread and interested in both.
I have the same bounce in my steering and it is just like being in 4wd but definitely not engaged. I'm looking into it and leaning toward alignment with the 315's vs the 265 stock tires or maybe steering box flex, but just guessing so far. I didn't do an alignment with the new tires and expect the 32" to 35" change played with the toe-in and/or castor. My mechanic buddy just did a pitman stabilizer setup on a 97 that looked like a great upgade for these front ends.
I did the ABS grease and glad to know it works out. I just took a guess when my first ones went out and the new ones looked pretty sparse for grease from the factor.
Cya
I have the same bounce in my steering and it is just like being in 4wd but definitely not engaged. I'm looking into it and leaning toward alignment with the 315's vs the 265 stock tires or maybe steering box flex, but just guessing so far. I didn't do an alignment with the new tires and expect the 32" to 35" change played with the toe-in and/or castor. My mechanic buddy just did a pitman stabilizer setup on a 97 that looked like a great upgade for these front ends.
I did the ABS grease and glad to know it works out. I just took a guess when my first ones went out and the new ones looked pretty sparse for grease from the factor.
Cya
#18
After replacing two front bearings after only 100,000 miles or so we came up with a way to “pack” the front bearings. I’m not going to debate the right or wrong of it, I only know it’s been working for well over 400,000 miles with no problems at all. We have only done this on 2wd's but I don’t know why it wouldn’t work on a 4wd as well.
On the 3500 we take off the outer hub (not sure what you call it but it’s only on the 3500). Then we take loose the entire brake assembly exposing the anti-lock brake sensor. We take the proper allen wrench (metric) and loosen the sensor and pull it out. Then we attached a grease zirk to the hose end of a grease gun, insert that into the sensor hole and start pumping high temp. wheel bearing grease. We turn the wheel and keep pumping until clean grease comes out of the outside (you'll see dirty grease coming first). Sometimes grease will come out of both the inner and outer bearings. Then we put the sensor back into place, tighten and re-assemble the brakes, etc.
On the 2500 it’s easier. We just take loose the two big bolts that hold the entire brake assembly, take it off along with the rotor in one piece (careful not to pinch your fingers). This allows for re-assembly without having to spread the caliper. Once the brake assembly and rotor is off the anti-lock brake sensor is right there and it can be “greased” in the same way.
When I first bought my 03 I noticed right away that a front bearing was already going out. I “packed” it and got another 50,000 miles before I had to change it. Neither the 3500 nor the 2500 have had to have a wheel bearing replaced since. We pack them every 25,000 – 35,000 miles. Works for us and can be done in less than 1 1/2 hrs.
On the 3500 we take off the outer hub (not sure what you call it but it’s only on the 3500). Then we take loose the entire brake assembly exposing the anti-lock brake sensor. We take the proper allen wrench (metric) and loosen the sensor and pull it out. Then we attached a grease zirk to the hose end of a grease gun, insert that into the sensor hole and start pumping high temp. wheel bearing grease. We turn the wheel and keep pumping until clean grease comes out of the outside (you'll see dirty grease coming first). Sometimes grease will come out of both the inner and outer bearings. Then we put the sensor back into place, tighten and re-assemble the brakes, etc.
On the 2500 it’s easier. We just take loose the two big bolts that hold the entire brake assembly, take it off along with the rotor in one piece (careful not to pinch your fingers). This allows for re-assembly without having to spread the caliper. Once the brake assembly and rotor is off the anti-lock brake sensor is right there and it can be “greased” in the same way.
When I first bought my 03 I noticed right away that a front bearing was already going out. I “packed” it and got another 50,000 miles before I had to change it. Neither the 3500 nor the 2500 have had to have a wheel bearing replaced since. We pack them every 25,000 – 35,000 miles. Works for us and can be done in less than 1 1/2 hrs.
#19
I'm also gonna say it's the axle joints. These "greased for life" things are bad for drying out and the caps seizing. What's more is, they have to pull the very expensive unit-bearing hub out to gain access to the joint and have of the time, the unit-bearing gets pulled in half and destroyed!
#21
Been away for a golf trip but mine is definitely the drivers side axle u-joint. Pretty easy to diagnose with the front end up and rotating the wheels. As the wheel rotates, the steering moves side to side. A close look showd rust powde from one cap.
Cya
Cya
#22
but i have repacked the old way.... kind of hard to take apart though also the seal isn't very good when i finished, but it doesn't seal much, 2 wd's generally don't get much dirt in that area
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