725Gus

I've got 36,500 on mine and it's mostly from being in front of a 10,000lb gooseneck. Believe me, I needed brakes.

Well an update on the original intention of this thread.

Two nights ago, it took me 2.5 hours of beating the driver's side disc off with a firefighter's multi tool. Translated: about a 15-20lb sledge that destroys anything in its path, EXCEPT Dodge brake rotors.

Last night I moved on to round two and thought I'd tackle the passenger side in half the time. No way! over three hours and I had to put togther an elaborate array of tools and pullers to eventually get it off the hub.

I still won't recant my statement about dealers literally raping you nowadays with their obscene charges. But after this job (and I haven't even assembled it yet) I might not wince as much on my next quote.

Thanks for all the help gentlemen.

p.s. Hey Brian that tool from Harbor Freight, you're not kiding man, it's great! My buddy brought over one similar to that and with the exception of some minor slipping off the disc lip, it came off in a flash.

Mark03Ram

I usueally PB blast the crap out of them. Let it sit for awhile then do it again. Next day I use a very large rubber mallet and hit the outer edge in a circle to try and rock it. If that dont work and the rotor is trash I start with a 5lb mini sledge and work my way up. Usueally between the PB and the heavy rubber mallet I can hit it hard enough to rock it.

With that said I once did a Eagle talon that was so bad I had to cut them off with a wizz wheel. The outer part of the rotor was on the ground and the flat section was still on the hub. That was a nightmare.

lost one

Mine where rusted on pretty bad, I soaked it in PB Blaster then used a puller to put some tension on it (no a lot I didnt want to break it where the puller arms where touching it) then took a piece of 2X4 and set it on the edge and whacked it with a hammer to shock it, betweem the PB Blaster, puller and shock they slowly worked their way off. Once off I cleaned all of the surfaces with a wire wheel before reassembling them. I did not use anti sieze on this part only because I dont like anything with oil or grease in it near my brakes and was afraid it would get hot and run onto the rotor braking surface.

MR. GADGET

Look for my post on the Ball joints, I show a few pic on it and talk about it.

For the most part some spray oil or PB and then use a wood block and a 2-3 lb hammer. work around think of a clock make 2-3 hits at 1,2,3 and so on. don't beat it or you will be replacing the bearing and rotor.

ROCKHEAD

When I did ball joints and front axle ujoints, getting the rotors off took the most time. I used the block of wood and BFH until I couldnt take it anymore. Movement was slow. Scraped as much of the rust behind it as I could. Once the first one came off I decided to to soak the second side in Zep 45 over night. Second side was better, but still no walk in the park.

Truck lived in MN for the first 3 years. They tend to put down a little salt

ataboy9026

Has anyone ever cut a 2x4 and used it as a wedge between the rotor and the frame somewhere and started the truck to use the power steering to "turn" into the 2x4 to create some pressure while someone hammers on the other side of the rotor? Try to use pressure as your friend, and the power steering is free. Mine came off without going that route but I would have figured out something if they were more stuck.

AUJIMMY

This is about how I had do mine. After removing the retainer clips from the factory, I initially tried just a 4 lb hammer. No Go!

The easiest way is using a socket extension. Find a lip to seat the extension on the rotor and then a good place on the frame. Start up the truck and just turn the steering wheel and it will come off just like that. This "power steering" technique has also been used on the front hub assembly removal as well.

RiverRat2

Kroil oil is supreme penetrant!!!!!!!

MR. GADGET

Yep.

You need to be real easy with the 2x4 and push with power steer. Remember that the bearing can fall apart on you. Even if you don't damage the bearing that you can see, any time you side load a sealed bearing it does damage.