3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

How to do a DIY pressure tester

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Old 02-28-2008 | 12:55 AM
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06megacabman's Avatar
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From: Sherwood, OR
How to do a DIY boost pressure tester

So I'm suffering from low boost (and from reading on DTR others are also) and I can't get Dodge to look at it since I'm not getting a CEL and there is no spec listed in Dodge for max psi only you will get a CEL for overboost and underboost which I'm not getting any CEL.

So, can anyone give a detailed description of how to do a DIY pressure test setup on the engine to look for a leak. I think I've ruled out the waste-gate actuator and solenoid as I pinched the line and boost still wouldn't hit ~32psi but I want to include the turbo in the loop. Any thoughts for a semi non technical diesel junky. I thought this might help others also.
Old 02-28-2008 | 07:26 AM
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From: Muskego, WI
When's the last time that you changed the air & fuel filter?

Do you an EGT gauage? If so have your EGTs been going up?

Do you have a fuel pressure guage or a rail pressure guage? What are the pressures that you're seeing?

I would start with checking to make sure that all of the boots are clamped to 100in#s. After that check the turbo shaft for play. I don't remember what the Side to side min and max are or the in & out play. If you don't have a manual pm me. I can e-mail you me e-copy for an '05. It should be the same as for your truck.
Then pressure check the system with a PVC cap, drilled for a pressure gauge & schreder valve (tire valve) with a rubber coupler (home depot, Mendards, Lowes, etc). Use a pressure regulated compresser to slow bring up pressure to no more than 35#s. You can listen for a small hiss or use a heavy soap & water mix to find leaks by spraying the mixture throughout the system & looking for places that it makes bobbles.

If your not getting enough fuel, or rail pressure you'll also be low on boost.
You can easily check the rail pressure releaf valve. It the long cylinder going to the fuel return hose by the MAP sensor on the rail. If you unbolt that & start up the truck, look to see if you have fuel coming out of that. If you do, you have a bad releaf valve. This will cause low injection pressure & low boost.

Keep us informed. I'm sure others with more knowledge, will help also.
Old 02-28-2008 | 11:44 AM
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06megacabman's Avatar
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From: Sherwood, OR
I don't have an EGT (Yet). I just changed the air/fuel filter to the AMSOIL Dry and Geno's 7micron Fuel to rule those out also. I do not have a fuel pressure gauge. I have been hesitant on too many gauges as my Oregon dealers are trigger happy on denying warranty with the assumption you have a programmer if you have gauges.

I checked all the clamps I could find and gave them all a couple turns. The truck only has 12K miles on it.

I am working on getting the material for the PVC with cap and schrader valve but that is my question. Do I put it in line at the connection coming out of the turbo or I also thought about removing the elbow at the intake horn and putting the valve on one side and capping the other which comes out of the intercooler. Does it matter so that the whole system is pressurized? I have my boost gauge to see the pressure build to 35#'s. My air tank also has gauges. If I connect to the line coming out of the turbo and going into the intercooler do I need to cap off the turbo side or does the turbo act like a cap?

Is the MAP sensor the connector with the Orange or Blue rubber thing.

Sorry for so many questions I just want to get this figured out its driving me crazy. I am planning to work on it this weekend and I'm trying to get the PVC material put together in the next couple days.
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