Help 05 with no power!!
09-01-2010 | 02:35 PM
#16
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
I have a friend with an 05 that blew the plastic inter cooler and even tho he was over 100k miles it was covered under warranty. He tried to get them to change it at 20K miles before it blew and they would not.
09-03-2010 | 01:33 PM
#17
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 346
Likes: 2
From: Salem, UT
WAIT!!!!! Before you do any of that, disconnect your Edge and clean all the connections. Use a bit of fine emory paper to clean them. Also pull the MAP sensor and clean it with brake cleaner. Just spray it off well. Then reinstall everything, clear the code, and try again and see if that doesn't clear it up. That is a very common occurrence with most programmers. There are a number of threads on that same problem.
If the problem reoccurs, disconnect the programmer, clear the codes, the run stock for a while and see if it happens again. If it doesn't, the problem is with the programmer, most likely in the wiring (ie, connections).
The problem is that bad connections or a dirty or bad MAP sensor is sending out an erroneous "low manifold pressure" signal to your ECM, which then shuts down your turbo (simplified explanation).
Apparently, just my assessment, the additional wiring and circuitry of the programmer increases the resistance in the MAP circuitry to the point where it is barely within spec, and any additional resistance from a dirty sensor or poor connections, decreases the voltage (increasing resistance decreases voltage, ECM codes trigger on voltage drops/increases) to the point where the ECM thinks it is reading a bad MAP sensor.
I was having the problem and traced it to a bad connection to the MAP sensor. I replaced the connector, cleaned all the connections and the MAP sensor, and just made a 5,000 mile trip with no problems.
If the problem reoccurs, disconnect the programmer, clear the codes, the run stock for a while and see if it happens again. If it doesn't, the problem is with the programmer, most likely in the wiring (ie, connections).
The problem is that bad connections or a dirty or bad MAP sensor is sending out an erroneous "low manifold pressure" signal to your ECM, which then shuts down your turbo (simplified explanation).
Apparently, just my assessment, the additional wiring and circuitry of the programmer increases the resistance in the MAP circuitry to the point where it is barely within spec, and any additional resistance from a dirty sensor or poor connections, decreases the voltage (increasing resistance decreases voltage, ECM codes trigger on voltage drops/increases) to the point where the ECM thinks it is reading a bad MAP sensor.
I was having the problem and traced it to a bad connection to the MAP sensor. I replaced the connector, cleaned all the connections and the MAP sensor, and just made a 5,000 mile trip with no problems.
09-07-2010 | 10:49 PM
#18
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
From: Spokane, WA
WAIT!!!!! Before you do any of that, disconnect your Edge and clean all the connections. Use a bit of fine emory paper to clean them. Also pull the MAP sensor and clean it with brake cleaner. Just spray it off well. Then reinstall everything, clear the code, and try again and see if that doesn't clear it up. That is a very common occurrence with most programmers. There are a number of threads on that same problem.
If the problem reoccurs, disconnect the programmer, clear the codes, the run stock for a while and see if it happens again. If it doesn't, the problem is with the programmer, most likely in the wiring (ie, connections).
The problem is that bad connections or a dirty or bad MAP sensor is sending out an erroneous "low manifold pressure" signal to your ECM, which then shuts down your turbo (simplified explanation).
Apparently, just my assessment, the additional wiring and circuitry of the programmer increases the resistance in the MAP circuitry to the point where it is barely within spec, and any additional resistance from a dirty sensor or poor connections, decreases the voltage (increasing resistance decreases voltage, ECM codes trigger on voltage drops/increases) to the point where the ECM thinks it is reading a bad MAP sensor.
I was having the problem and traced it to a bad connection to the MAP sensor. I replaced the connector, cleaned all the connections and the MAP sensor, and just made a 5,000 mile trip with no problems.
If the problem reoccurs, disconnect the programmer, clear the codes, the run stock for a while and see if it happens again. If it doesn't, the problem is with the programmer, most likely in the wiring (ie, connections).
The problem is that bad connections or a dirty or bad MAP sensor is sending out an erroneous "low manifold pressure" signal to your ECM, which then shuts down your turbo (simplified explanation).
Apparently, just my assessment, the additional wiring and circuitry of the programmer increases the resistance in the MAP circuitry to the point where it is barely within spec, and any additional resistance from a dirty sensor or poor connections, decreases the voltage (increasing resistance decreases voltage, ECM codes trigger on voltage drops/increases) to the point where the ECM thinks it is reading a bad MAP sensor.
I was having the problem and traced it to a bad connection to the MAP sensor. I replaced the connector, cleaned all the connections and the MAP sensor, and just made a 5,000 mile trip with no problems.
09-08-2010 | 06:47 AM
#19
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 346
Likes: 2
From: Salem, UT
Ok so i pulled the boots off and looked at the turbo, well at least i think i know what i am doing...I pulled everything off on both sides of the intercooler, everything was tight. And looks good, the wheel on the compressor looks fine, no play and it spins fine, i put a rag in the one side of the intercooler and used i bike pump...only thing i have at this moment... I pumped and pumped and it goes up to 5psi and it won't hold anything, problem is i can't pump fast enough to find the leak...any suggestions? besides buying an air compressor? :-) Thanks.
09-08-2010 | 06:48 AM
#20
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 346
Likes: 2
From: Salem, UT
Well come to find out, the plastic side on the passenger side has separated. So now comes the fun part of a little R&R. Also the question is what should i replace it with, I found a BD intercooler that was 1000.00, does anyone know if this is a good intercooler???. Any suggestions would be helpful however i am not looking to spend to much money... Thanks for all the help guys!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
powerwagon440
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
3
01-20-2003 08:50 PM
pwabbott
3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years
14
12-20-2002 08:23 PM