Commanderman440

So i have a 03 2500. Bought it in may for 12k. its a auto and has 156k miles now. When i first got it i had to have the overdrive unit and valve body rebuilt and put a new front end (ball joints, u-joints, brakes and rotors and other stuff) I had a problem with it starting so as always i parked it with the nose downhill and it was fine. Found out the return line bolt on the back of the head was loose. Now its getting colder here in PA it wont fire at all whether its plugged in or not. Only happens if it sits a period of time (longer than approx. 8hr) Tried parking it with nose downhill still wont start. I end up having to spray some starting fluid to get it to run once started and i shut it off and start it back up it is fine. I have a airdog lift pump. So what could be causing this and yes i know starting fluid is a big NO NO but i need to start my truck (only vehicle). Buddies say injector but i have no white smoke or rough idle, injector line or rings, or fuel rail rings. But research says it could be my grid heater bc it takes FOREVER for the light to go off the dash when it sits a period of time whether plugged or not. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Lary Ellis (Top)

That truck should start just fine even without the grid heater working no colder than it is this time of year.

I hope you at least had the good sense to disable the grid heaters....if not then
keep a video camera running when you are using that starting fluid so we can all see how high you launch the intake in the air when the grids just happen to get hot. I would also wear kevlar and body armor as well

Sounds like a fueling issue, how much fuel pressure you got coming out of the lift pump?

Jeff in TD

I suspect you have one or more injectors with excessive return flow. This can prevent the fuel rail from reaching the pressure required for the ECM to fire the injectors.

Somewhere around here there is a write up on the testing procedure. There are a couple special fittings required to separate the return flow from the pump from the injector return flow, and a cap for the fuel rail so you can block off an individual injector.

BigIron70

Excessive return flow could be caused by High pressure connector tubes, or injector. Tighter connector tubes to 37 ft. lbs. If you still have a no start then cap injector connection fitting at the rail one by one until you find injector causing the no start. Remember you must keep the lines clean, wash them in clean diesel fuel and blow them off with high pressure air. Dirt that gets into high pressure fuel line or injector will cause that injector to fail.

Commanderman440

I was told it could be the pressure sensor on the fuel rail. it could be going bad? and not reading correct pressure once it sits for a period of time?

Jeff in TD

Im no expert, but I would think a person would start by seeing what the computer says the rail pressure is. If it is low, then I think you would want to measure return flow from the pump, and injectors.

If flow from pump is high, maybe fca?

If flow from injectors is high, I think you'd start by torquing the nuts on the fuel tubes, if still high block off one injector at a time so you can determine how much of the return flow each injector is contributing.

BigIron70

That could be true if key on engine not running and you read fuel pressure, or if fuel pressure reads higher at idle then at 3,000 rpm. I very seldom see fuel sensors fail. PLV yes, injectors yes, FCA yes. You need to pick up capping tool then start capping fuel lines at the rail one by one until you find bad injector, or run injector fuel return test, takes longer and special Miller fuel adaptors required. Capping injectors at the rail is faster and easier. Most likely one injector causing your no start issue.
Never loosen fuel line while engine is running on a common rail diesel.

http://www.costplustools.com/Miller-...72_a_7cMST9864

Commanderman440

So update, when the "glow plug light" I know cummins have grid heaters and not glow plugs but when the light stays on for a long time like 10-20 seconds, I turn the key off and then back on until the light isnt on longer than roughly 8 seconds then it starts fine. Almost like the air in the intake isnt warm enough or im so called priming the fuel system. I honestly dont have a clue.

roughstock

sounds like your losing prime because of a drain back issue. and keying it twice helps get the fuel back up to the HP pump. Doubt its grids. One of the work trucks here has no grids and starts ok when well below freexing.
or you need an injector(s).