Had a scare yesterday....
#16
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Originally Posted by Superduty
Just to confirm then... if the only fuel that is getting filtered is the fuel coming back on the return line from the engine pump (CP3), then the FASS isn't filtering the fuel coming out of its return line. Right ?
#17
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Superduty, It's pouring....don't make me go back and look at that thing again....check out the link in the previous post to be sure. To me it is:
tank
Black Iron Pipe.
Big Blue fuel line
Water Separator
Fuel Filter
Pump Assembly
Big Blue fuel line
Cp3
Black return fuel line
tank filler over flow
tank.
There are two lines going into the FASS input from tank ...output to CP3.
All fuel from the tank is water seperated and filtered then pumped. It stopped raining so I dumped some water out of the water seperator. ks
tank
Black Iron Pipe.
Big Blue fuel line
Water Separator
Fuel Filter
Pump Assembly
Big Blue fuel line
Cp3
Black return fuel line
tank filler over flow
tank.
There are two lines going into the FASS input from tank ...output to CP3.
All fuel from the tank is water seperated and filtered then pumped. It stopped raining so I dumped some water out of the water seperator. ks
#18
Thats MR Hoss to you buddy!
Originally Posted by Dodgezilla
I think half my problem is that I was trying to run the tank down to almost empty so I could install my Fuel Tank Vent Relocation kit...
I'm holding onto my kit for now thinking that if I ever need to take my bed off for any reason then I'll install it then.
I can only think of three things that would make it a fairly easy job:
1) Remove your exhaust system (allows room to get up and be able to reach OVER the drive shaft to get to the connections).
2) Remove the bed (allows you to do the install without dropping the tank or messing with those blasted connections).
3) Have long, skinny, flexible arms with eyeballs on the end of each finger so you can see what you're hands are touching.
I have never been as frustrated working on a vehicle as I was when trying to install that kit.
#19
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Going back to the first post...make sure hen you have the tank out to make an alteration to the 2 fittings on the top of the tank. On mine they were completly free to vent in either direction and there was much dirt and sludge built up around them. This is likely the source of your sludge in the filter and tank. I have pictures in my gallery as to the temporary fix. I will be putting fuel approved line on with a filter of some sort and mounted up high near the filler neck. Don't just plug the lines as the tank does need a "FILTERED" air source to prevent a vacuum being formed in the tank as the fuel level goes down or even if barometric pressure changes, f there is a vacuum present the lift pump will strain even harder to try and supply fuel to the rest of the fuel system.
#20
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I watched a few mechanics replace intank fuel pumps at a shop I was working part time doing tires. They would take all the bed bolts out but the two at the rear, leaving them loose. Then they would jack the front of the bed up enough to give yourself plenty of room to work and see what you are doing. I would use some thing to brace the bed up prior to sticking my head under there. This way is alot easier than wrestling a partialy filled fuel tank to the floor adn back up.
#23
Thats MR Hoss to you buddy!
Originally Posted by slowwheelin
I watched a few mechanics replace intank fuel pumps at a shop I was working part time doing tires. They would take all the bed bolts out but the two at the rear, leaving them loose. Then they would jack the front of the bed up enough to give yourself plenty of room to work and see what you are doing. I would use some thing to brace the bed up prior to sticking my head under there. This way is alot easier than wrestling a partialy filled fuel tank to the floor adn back up.
#25
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You will be happy with the way your truck fills with the vent relo kit. I was one of Dave Kelley's first customers for the kit. No standing around nursing the pump handle or carrying a top off can. Works like it should have from the factory.
#26
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Now I have a dilemma... I saw the crud on my fuel filter and bet that it came from running the tank down so low and there's probably more in the tank. Dropping the tank is going to be the only way to get this stuff out of the tank. But, I don't like to run it that low as I am paranoid about running out of fuel and getting stranded somewhere... I bought the kit so I guess the wise thing is to do it......
#27
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Originally Posted by Hoss
That's an idea. I didn't realize you could raise the front of the bed enough just by loosening the two bolts in the rear. That would DEFINITELY be easier than trying to drop the tank. I may have to give that a try.
#28
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Originally Posted by moterhead
No, you can't raise the front by loosening bolts in the rear. If you loosen only the bolts in the rear, the front bolts are still installed and tight. I've dropped the tank on my '04 three times. It's not hard. One of the tricks is to pay close attention to Dave's removal instructions. Another is to run the tank down low, like to DTE = 0. I'm 62 years old, only 5 '8' and weigh 155 pounds so am not someone who can wrestle a partially filled tank. I use a motorcycle/ATV hoist. And I do it alone. You can buy those for as little as $60 at Walmart or Pep Boys. Service techs have to work on the vehicle as the customer brings it in, so they may have to "wrestle a partially filled tank". You, as the owner/DIY have a choice.
#29
Thats MR Hoss to you buddy!
Well, OBVIOUSLY the front bolts would have to be removed. I didn't think I had to state the obvious.
I paid VERY close attention to his removal instructions. Lowering the tank isn't the problem for me. Disconnecting the stupid fuel line and electrical connections so you CAN lower the tank is what I was unable to accomplish. I just couldn't find a way to physically do it. It's a two hand job and I was barely able to get one hand on the connections by reaching through the wheel well area.
Like I said, to do it I think you have to have long skinny arms....preferably with 2-3 elbows on each arm.
Seems to me that lifting the front of the bed a foot or two would be FAR easier than dropping the tank (with the added benefit of not having to run your tank all the way down).
I paid VERY close attention to his removal instructions. Lowering the tank isn't the problem for me. Disconnecting the stupid fuel line and electrical connections so you CAN lower the tank is what I was unable to accomplish. I just couldn't find a way to physically do it. It's a two hand job and I was barely able to get one hand on the connections by reaching through the wheel well area.
Like I said, to do it I think you have to have long skinny arms....preferably with 2-3 elbows on each arm.
Seems to me that lifting the front of the bed a foot or two would be FAR easier than dropping the tank (with the added benefit of not having to run your tank all the way down).
#30
Thats MR Hoss to you buddy!
Originally Posted by slowwheelin
Just for the record you have to remove all the bolts but the rear ones, those you have to loosen to the max. The only reason you leave them in is to keep the bed located properly for easy reinstallation of the front bolts and prevent it from sliding off of cource. This procedure is just a time saver, unless of course you have to drop the tank all the way down to clean the inside out or replace it. Before a sevice tech came in with this idea they would drain the down with a pump which of course takes time and time is money when your are paid a flat rate.