coobie

Go to this web-site www.dieselinjection.net/fass click on installation section pdf go to dodge cummins diesel.This should be what you are looking for.coobie

abc4yew

Superduty, It's pouring....don't make me go back and look at that thing again....check out the link in the previous post to be sure. To me it is:
tank
Black Iron Pipe.
Big Blue fuel line
Water Separator
Fuel Filter
Pump Assembly
Big Blue fuel line
Cp3
Black return fuel line
tank filler over flow
tank.

There are two lines going into the FASS input from tank ...output to CP3.
All fuel from the tank is water seperated and filtered then pumped. It stopped raining so I dumped some water out of the water seperator. ks

Hoss

Off topic, but I hope you have better luck with that than I did. I tried twice and STILL couldn't get it done. I couldn't get the fuel lines OR the electrical connection disconnected. I really don't see how anyone has been able to do it unless they have long and skinny arms (which I don't). The best I could do is touch the connections with one or two fingers as I tried to twist my arm into places where it wasn't designed to go.

I'm holding onto my kit for now thinking that if I ever need to take my bed off for any reason then I'll install it then.

I can only think of three things that would make it a fairly easy job:

1) Remove your exhaust system (allows room to get up and be able to reach OVER the drive shaft to get to the connections).

2) Remove the bed (allows you to do the install without dropping the tank or messing with those blasted connections).

3) Have long, skinny, flexible arms with eyeballs on the end of each finger so you can see what you're hands are touching.

I have never been as frustrated working on a vehicle as I was when trying to install that kit.

CRXsi

Going back to the first post...make sure hen you have the tank out to make an alteration to the 2 fittings on the top of the tank. On mine they were completly free to vent in either direction and there was much dirt and sludge built up around them. This is likely the source of your sludge in the filter and tank. I have pictures in my gallery as to the temporary fix. I will be putting fuel approved line on with a filter of some sort and mounted up high near the filler neck. Don't just plug the lines as the tank does need a "FILTERED" air source to prevent a vacuum being formed in the tank as the fuel level goes down or even if barometric pressure changes, f there is a vacuum present the lift pump will strain even harder to try and supply fuel to the rest of the fuel system.

slowwheelin

I watched a few mechanics replace intank fuel pumps at a shop I was working part time doing tires. They would take all the bed bolts out but the two at the rear, leaving them loose. Then they would jack the front of the bed up enough to give yourself plenty of room to work and see what you are doing. I would use some thing to brace the bed up prior to sticking my head under there. This way is alot easier than wrestling a partialy filled fuel tank to the floor adn back up.

tweeter

For some reason when I saw the title of this post I thought you tried to buy another turbo.......................

Dodgezilla

Very funny tweeter!!!
Actually I did buy another and it will be in this weekend.

Hoss

That's an idea. I didn't realize you could raise the front of the bed enough just by loosening the two bolts in the rear. That would DEFINITELY be easier than trying to drop the tank. I may have to give that a try.

abc4yew

Hoss, Don't hurt your back lifting all that concrete that is suppose to be in your bed from what I've read. ks

moterhead

You will be happy with the way your truck fills with the vent relo kit. I was one of Dave Kelley's first customers for the kit. No standing around nursing the pump handle or carrying a top off can. Works like it should have from the factory.

Dodgezilla

Now I have a dilemma... I saw the crud on my fuel filter and bet that it came from running the tank down so low and there's probably more in the tank. Dropping the tank is going to be the only way to get this stuff out of the tank. But, I don't like to run it that low as I am paranoid about running out of fuel and getting stranded somewhere... I bought the kit so I guess the wise thing is to do it......

moterhead

No, you can't raise the front by loosening bolts in the rear. If you loosen only the bolts in the rear, the front bolts are still installed and tight. I've dropped the tank on my '04 three times. It's not hard. One of the tricks is to pay close attention to Dave's removal instructions. Another is to run the tank down low, like to DTE = 0. I'm 62 years old, only 5 '8' and weigh 155 pounds so am not someone who can wrestle a partially filled tank. I use a motorcycle/ATV hoist. And I do it alone. You can buy those for as little as $60 at Walmart or Pep Boys. Service techs have to work on the vehicle as the customer brings it in, so they may have to "wrestle a partially filled tank". You, as the owner/DIY have a choice.

slowwheelin

Just for the record you have to remove all the bolts but the rear ones, those you have to loosen to the max. The only reason you leave them in is to keep the bed located properly for easy reinstallation of the front bolts and prevent it from sliding off of cource. This procedure is just a time saver, unless of course you have to drop the tank all the way down to clean the inside out or replace it. Before a sevice tech came in with this idea they would drain the down with a pump which of course takes time and time is money when your are paid a flat rate.

Hoss

Well, OBVIOUSLY the front bolts would have to be removed. I didn't think I had to state the obvious.

I paid VERY close attention to his removal instructions. Lowering the tank isn't the problem for me. Disconnecting the stupid fuel line and electrical connections so you CAN lower the tank is what I was unable to accomplish. I just couldn't find a way to physically do it. It's a two hand job and I was barely able to get one hand on the connections by reaching through the wheel well area.

Like I said, to do it I think you have to have long skinny arms....preferably with 2-3 elbows on each arm.

Seems to me that lifting the front of the bed a foot or two would be FAR easier than dropping the tank (with the added benefit of not having to run your tank all the way down).

Hoss

How far were they able to raise the front of the bed up? Was it enough to be able to drill a hole on the top of the rear portion of the fuel tank??