got the injectors installed and the knock was still there... looks like i will be doing a full tear down afterall. end of october

 

here are the pics from the teardown and install

Teardown











NEW PARTS




Re-installation

 

after i got everything torqued back down to spec and everything good to go went and tried to start her but she still wouldnt start. called my local diesel shop and they told me because i had just put in new injectors it could be because there was air where there should be fuel and to just keep trying to start it until it fired up and everything should be fine. i continuously tried, i let the system prime. i got smoke from my stacks a few times but she still wouldnt start. i stopped after trying probably half a dozen times and noticed that some of my fuel lines were wet and the more i tried to start her the worse it got so im guessing there is a clog in one of my fuel lines somewhere and its causing pressure and caused a leak and now its not supplying sufficient fuel for the engine to run. so now ill get to replace my fuel lines and see if she will start and pray that my knock is gone and she runs and everything is good

 

Did you clean the feed tubes? Use air to blow out your fuel lines after you have them removed them. Did you try loosening all the lines at the rail to see if you had fuel to all of them? Installed injectors on my buddies truck and that sucker fired up after about 3 tries. You definitely have a restriction somewhere.

 

the feeder tubes were brand new, i blew all the fuel lines from the rail to the tubes clean when i pulled them out..

i think there is a restriction between the tank and the stock filter. im gunna remove it and blow all my lines clean and see if that is the problem. next step will be to get a FASS or Airdog and throw in a filter delete tube

 

Are you getting sufficient fuel from the LP to the rail? Before you delete the stock canister here's a thought to save you some trouble.....if you have a canister mounted LP (don't remember year of your truck) just bypass it if you install a FASS or AirDog. I had the internal seal of my AD fail and pump was shorted out from fuel. Just re-installed factory hard line to CP3 and plugged the stock LP back in to get me going until I got my AD repaired.....again, just a thought.

 

Time to bring this thread back from the dead..

I finally got my truck back and had the time and money to start my tear down and rebuild (since it wasnt injectors)

i started my teardown and immediately noticed once the valve cover was off that there was an issue



i noticed that the front pushrod on the number 1 cylinder was dropping significantly lower than all the other ones.

so when i took the head off completely i found that all my cylinders and pistons were good except number 1

number 1:


others:





and overview:


So I pulled off the oil pan to check the bottom end and see what was going on

Bottom end looked good other than the blown through plug








So my plan of action is to hone all 6 cylinders in put in new rings, put in a new #1 piston and connecting rod, and a new pushrod in place of the one that dropped and was rattling around




My question is what is under the pushrods that must be bad for it to be allowing the front pushrod to drop almost an inch lower than all the other
ones??

 

welllll i went and looked down from the top and checked the valve lifter in the front pushrod hole and it looks exactly like all the other ones so my guess is that isnt the problem..

tomorrow morning i plan on pulling my pistons and the rest of the bottom end out and checking my bearings to see if one is spun

 

But that still doesn't explain why that push-rod was so much deeper than the others. Have you been able to inspect the cam lobes yet?

 

Yeah you can clearly see the pushrod is shorter since you got her apart, dude pull the cam, get a tray and wood dowels. Betcha the tappet is fubared. While your at it check all the rods on a flat plate.....my-two cents

 

i took a few pushrods and dropped them down and came to the conclusion that when i was pulling them all originally the rod had come off the bowl in the valve lifter where it sits and slid to the side down where there is ports leading to the pan. i set the front pushrod back in the dimple where is should sit and compared it to the next 4 in line and all were the same height

 

Im going to check all the pushrods on a piece of glass to make sure they are all straight


other than the chip in the top of the piston i havent found any other bad parts that could be the source of the knock i had

 

if you look at the pics at the top the pushrod is level with all the other ones... i must have dropped it down off the valve lifter when i was pulling pieces in the head

 

 

Welppp i rolled all my pushrods across a pane of glass and all the pushrods are straight so ill chaulk that dropped front rod up to my own error during removal

i pulled my number 1 piston completely out and realized the "flakes" i saw on the top were actually dents

here she is







I checked the connecting rod and the rod bearings, the rod bearings were slightly scarred but the CR was good so ill throw a new set of rod bearings in when i pull all the pistons to hone out the cylinders






the cylinder wall on the number 1 cylinder has a few scratches but im hoping honing it out will clean it up, and the whole set are getting new piston rings



the crazy part is that even with the extensive damage to the head of the piston the damage on the bottom of the head was almost unnoticable





So my best guess is that the chunk that came out of the edge of the piston must have been bouncing around inside the cylinder and managed to tear up the piston top without damaging the head or cylinder walls

Im going to install
-a new #1 piston and connecting rod
-all new rod bearings on all 6 connecting rods
-hone all 6 cylinders
-new rings in all 6 cylinders
-new head gasket
-and some ARP head studs