Please help me descide what options I need on my Goerend trans that I need to order this month. I am going to go with the standard duty Goerend Trans. You can see my truck in my sig, all stock except for the Smarty Jr and I only tow a boat recreationally which weighs 5k#'s. Truck also has 120k miles and the TC is slipping real bad.

Some questions are:
1. Do I need a stronger flex plate. I have 4 options. One from my old trans, new OEM, New welded, new billet.
2. Trans pan. I currently have a single deep Mag Hytec. Do I need a double deep?
3. lock out for the TC, I guess I can pick what gears it locks up in. What should I do here?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks

 

Do you plan on making more power later?

Have you given Dave a call yet? Im sure hed be better to recommend what you need, and wont recommend stuff you wont really need if you dont plan on making more power later...

If its staying mostly stock, might not even need a billet input, just do a rebuild and use his TC and valve body...

 

Your best bet is to call Dave, he won't steer you wrong when deciding what the best options are for you (as far what torque converter, billit shafts etc.) and best for your habits and what you do with your truck. Give him a call hes a real nice guy and he will take the time to come up with a game plan for your trans.

 

1. I think you'll be fine with the standard flex plate from the old tranny. For the money your better off replacing the input shaft and leaving the stock flex plate as the week point.

2. I run the stock trans pan and I've never had a problem with the tranny overheating. The new T/C and V/B will reduce tranny temps by keeping the T/C locked instead of slipping that causes heat.

3. I'm not a big fan of the lock up switch unless your running billet shafts. Besides you can lock the T/C with 2nd by placing the tranny in 2nd and 3rd and 4th will lock as normal. Besides you'll most likely need to save your money for a shift enhancer to help with the shuttle shifting.

 

1) while you have it out i would replace the flex plate.. i went BD black with mine, wasnt that expensive
2) are you planning on towing? even with the standard pan and a smarty, i wouldnt hit over 190 in stop and go traffic, just cruising i just hit 130.
3) couldnt tell you

while you are having dave set it up, id do valve body/torque converter, band upgrades, and grab his shift enhancer too. i also had him throw in a billet input as its usually the first to go. you never know, so i had it replaced as a precaution

 

1. i would get the billet flexplate the stock is very weak
2 i run a single deep PML pan, was told the DD took along time to get to oper. temp
3. do not know

 

Thanks everyone, I look forward to many more replies. I can't wait to be able to use the Smarty again.

To answer a few questions, I only tow 5k a few times a week and not very far. As for upgrades I don't see myself needing more then the Smarty JR. I like the recommendations, thanks again.

 

If you get the aftermarket flex plate keep in mind that your input shaft will now be the week point. In order to replace you'll have to drop and rebuild the tranny.. If you leave the flexplate the weak point you wont have to crack the tranny case to fix. Again just a Staked97 stated: If you plan on staying under 425 ish HP you might be just fine with the T/C V/B. My want to look into the 1-2 shift lever, billet servo and upgraded bands.

 

The best thing to do is call Dave and tell him what you have now and what you may want do later on if your thinking of adding more power and he will set you up with what you need.