Gear Selector Indicater Repair
#1
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Gear Selector Indicater Repair
For about 6 months or so ago, the transmission indicator on the dash has been problamatic. Getting it to the Park position was tricky, and required me fiddle with selector lever a bit; shove it in and out of park a couple of times. The transmission was firmly in park, and performed perfectly. It was the indicator that was the problem.
Doing a web search, this apparently a common problem, starting with about the '03 models. Unfortunatly, finding a common solution was a lot more difficult.
The most common answer was to replace the selecter switch in the trans. This is a somewhat involved process, and was pretty close to $300 if you did the work yourself. And, that didn't always work! People spent all that money for nothing.
I decided to start with the simple stuff first - adjusting the cable.
The factory service manual tells you to remove the dash pads and the bottom of the steering column cover. Then disconnect the cable at the bottom. Make the adjustment. Then put it all back together. Fortunatly, that isn't necessary.
- put the truck in park, and set the brake. No need to jack it up, or put it up on a hoist.
- With a good light, lay on your back and look up under the dash board.
- Follow the transmission cable up from the firewall.
- The first thing you come to is the adjuster mechanism. The adjuster locking tab is easy to see, it's white plastic and everything else is black plastic.
- Use a medium sized flat bladed screwdriver, and insert it into the slot that looks like it's designed for that screwdriver in your hand (because it is).
- gently turn the screwdriver, and pop the adjuster tab out of it's slot.
-- if it's really tight, play with the gear shift lever a bit to remove tension.
- with the locking tab released, push up on the gear shift level to make sure it's properly seated in Park. Do not push down, or try to move it out of park.
- push the white locking tab back in to place.
- Check to see if you still have the problem.
-- if you do, it's probably the expensive part in the transmission.
-- if you don't, it's fixed! Pat yourself on the back, and have a celebratory beer.
- It takes longer to read this than it does to fix it.
Worked for me, anyway.
Doing a web search, this apparently a common problem, starting with about the '03 models. Unfortunatly, finding a common solution was a lot more difficult.
The most common answer was to replace the selecter switch in the trans. This is a somewhat involved process, and was pretty close to $300 if you did the work yourself. And, that didn't always work! People spent all that money for nothing.
I decided to start with the simple stuff first - adjusting the cable.
The factory service manual tells you to remove the dash pads and the bottom of the steering column cover. Then disconnect the cable at the bottom. Make the adjustment. Then put it all back together. Fortunatly, that isn't necessary.
- put the truck in park, and set the brake. No need to jack it up, or put it up on a hoist.
- With a good light, lay on your back and look up under the dash board.
- Follow the transmission cable up from the firewall.
- The first thing you come to is the adjuster mechanism. The adjuster locking tab is easy to see, it's white plastic and everything else is black plastic.
- Use a medium sized flat bladed screwdriver, and insert it into the slot that looks like it's designed for that screwdriver in your hand (because it is).
- gently turn the screwdriver, and pop the adjuster tab out of it's slot.
-- if it's really tight, play with the gear shift lever a bit to remove tension.
- with the locking tab released, push up on the gear shift level to make sure it's properly seated in Park. Do not push down, or try to move it out of park.
- push the white locking tab back in to place.
- Check to see if you still have the problem.
-- if you do, it's probably the expensive part in the transmission.
-- if you don't, it's fixed! Pat yourself on the back, and have a celebratory beer.
- It takes longer to read this than it does to fix it.
Worked for me, anyway.
#3
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According to the factory service manua, it will drain out some fluid when you do that. True?
The best price I could find for that part was about $240! Yikes. There doesn't appear to be a way to test it. Youy replace it as a proicess of elimination. If that doesn't work (according to the manual) is replace the ECU. I'm afraid to even look at the cost of that.
I'm just glad I didn't have to mess with that. And, it turned out to be a free fix. Free is good - I like free.
The best price I could find for that part was about $240! Yikes. There doesn't appear to be a way to test it. Youy replace it as a proicess of elimination. If that doesn't work (according to the manual) is replace the ECU. I'm afraid to even look at the cost of that.
I'm just glad I didn't have to mess with that. And, it turned out to be a free fix. Free is good - I like free.
#5
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.boB,
Thanks for the tip, I'll have to give that a try. It's annoying and a bit embarrassing when that happens because if you don't know its not seated in park, the friggin horn goes off when you open the door!
Thanks for the tip, I'll have to give that a try. It's annoying and a bit embarrassing when that happens because if you don't know its not seated in park, the friggin horn goes off when you open the door!
#6
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thanks
just ran up on this.. thanks .boB i will take a look at this over the weekend sounds like a easy fix. i was just dealing with it and had a couple of the horn honking episodes on my '07
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