G56 Leaker
#31
Well, the Insight CV boot held well on a short run; it seems to also work well to dampen the shift lever vibration I had after the SB clutch replacement. I had also replaced the **** with an accessory **** with a "Spicer"-style contour which is more comfortable on the palm(a tad less irritating to my carpal tunnel). Before the new boot went on it rattled incessantly---kept having to turn the radio up so I could hear Levin yell, "Get off the phone, ya big dope!" At least the trans quieted down...
#32
I just replaced my clutch at 117k and found the shifter boot was torn as many have mentioned. It looks as though it was cut with a knife! The cut was about 2" long right behind the tower. Maybe that was the easiest was for the tech, haha, to put in additional atf. Anyway, I went to Autozone and got a Unifit cv boot, #03680, for the fix. $25.00. It has 3 steps in it starting at 3", 2.75" and 2.5". I cut it down to the 2.5" area and streched it on and put on a zip tie. Seems to fit very well. The top is 7/8 which is 1/8 larger than the tower so I wrapped the tower with elec tape then pulled over and installed another tie. The rubber seems to be much thicker than the stocker. Should be good.
#34
I'm not a regular listener because I don't have time, but that guy cracks me up every time I hear him. And he always makes perfect sense to me, so maybe I'm a bit warped.
#35
Shifter boot
Hi GUYS
My did the same thing, I don't know whats tearing them, theres nothing in the way to tear them, I lucked out my dealer had one in stock, 35 dollars, talking about getting burnt, well pretty easy to put in, about a hour. by the way chrysler sent me my refund for the tie rod update, took about five weeks to get it, better late the never, the safety recall was H46.
My did the same thing, I don't know whats tearing them, theres nothing in the way to tear them, I lucked out my dealer had one in stock, 35 dollars, talking about getting burnt, well pretty easy to put in, about a hour. by the way chrysler sent me my refund for the tie rod update, took about five weeks to get it, better late the never, the safety recall was H46.
#36
Micky1234,
Can you elaborate on this refund and the process you had to take. Last year I had 2 separate repairs done on my '06. First was hubs and either inner or outer tie rods. The second was "death wobble" stuff and the other tie rods that weren't done the first time. Thanks.
Can you elaborate on this refund and the process you had to take. Last year I had 2 separate repairs done on my '06. First was hubs and either inner or outer tie rods. The second was "death wobble" stuff and the other tie rods that weren't done the first time. Thanks.
#37
khsjeepr's boot clamps to the lever much higher up than mine, and his may just last the life of the vehicle---I'm not knocking his repair skills. I'd like to know, however, if his tower boot rubs the floor boot and will the constant rubbing chafe a hole in either boot; I was a little concerned that this could be an issue so I compressed mine nearly flat, which also raises another question: will the compression of the boot cause the trans to jump out of gear? Guess I'm gonna have to find out.
Yeah, I understand your point completely... I, too, had the same worries. However, I had already bought the CV boot and cut it so I figured I'd be using it. It definitely rides up higher on the shifter than I would prefer for it to. I see your point about the deformation of the rubber by using screw hose clamps.
All in all, it's been like that about a month - no ATF leaks nor smells (I would catch a horrendous smell here and there before). I'm not really concerned about chaffeing a hole into the tower boot. I really don't think it makes contact with the tower boot. I was more concerned with the hose clamp on the shifter. I had to snug it down so much that I wasn't able to cut off the excess clamp because of clearance issues. I was worried that the excess clamp would cut the CV boot mod. I guess time will tell. As others said, the CV boot is much thicker rubber and appears to be more durable than the stock boot.
#38
I just did this repair on my truck today with 50k miles. I used Mooge cv boot kit "CV2483. Both holes are a little loose but clamp right down with screw type hose clamps. I lubed the inside of the boot that goes over the CV boot with silicone spray to prevent chaffing. At $15 it's a better deal than the $90 I was quoted by the dealer.
Ted
Ted
#40
I know my boot is ripped, but my worst leak was the PTO cover on the pass side. Factory uses some sealer much like a caulking paste. Mine began leaking at 50,000mls. Something else to check if you guys are seeing spots on the driveway.
#42
After having mine replaced a few years ago, I have not had an issue with it. I now have 110K miles on my truck and I recently replaced my clutch. The trans wouldn't come out without removing the shifter from the trans. I bet these are getting ripped when they install the trans into the truck, not from wear and tear.
#43
Does anyone explain how to take apart the console to get to this boot . Iam think iam having the same problem but dealer is telling me my extended warrenty does not cover this and i want to do it myself to save some cash and does anybody know the exact part #
#44
so checked the cv boots i have for my polaris ranger and the big side is 2 11/16 and the small is 3/4 so it seams to be a good fit. i will look for a part # for just the boot. all i have right now is the numbers for the hole cv kit. my trans is not leaking yet but looks like i allready have a boot.