Madhat
my truck is used, I re-read my post and realized I should have said the that usually the engine mounted pump gets replaced with the dealer upgrade in the tank...from the response from the OP it looks like it all worked out

 

Yes, and thanks.

 

I see that "Purple" transmission hiding in that photo.

 

So I have almost the same problem. Recently my Dodge ram 3500 began to stagger while driving at about 40-50mph, but when going faster it stops. Then it started cutting out every 10 minutes while driving till it just wouldn't start. Code showed P0148. I Changed my lift pump (fuel transfer pump) and the truck began to drive again. Its been about a week and now the staggering is back and a little worse and i'm showing codes P0148 and now a new one P0628. Any ideas on what to do or how to fix this? the staggering seems to be getting worse.

 

This sound like a lift pump issue but more information regarding the options and mods. your truck is needed. Please fill out your signature by using the "User CP" tab above.

What type of lift pump did you replace the old one with? Did you also replace the fuel filter. Have you checked any of the fuel fittings for leakage?

 

I replaced the old fuel pump with a "Alliant Power" Fuel transfer pump kit. Part # AP4089602. And yes i did replace the fuel filter. I have not checked for any leakage.

 

That pump is virtually the same as the OEM mounted pump which are prone to fail. The codes you mentioned would have me pointing directly to a malfunctioning pump. I realize that you just replaced it, but the canister mounted lift pumps have proven to be very unreliable. I replaced my canister mounted pump last week as a preventative measure with a Raptor pump from Lary at the DTR store.

First, make sure your pump is even operational at all. Can you hear the pump run for several seconds once the key is turned to the on position? I take it you don't have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab to monitor the fuel pressure? Try that and report back.

 

Yes the pump runs when I put the key in on position. and no, I do not have a fuel pressure gauge. Is the pump not working properly? The truck just keeps staggering in the 40-50mph range when I drive.

 

Also, before changing the pump, I changed the injection pump sensor, and the overflow pressure relief valve which didn't work at first, so I changed the lift pump, which made the truck work great for the first 2 days, and now its back to staggering again and seems to be getting worse.

 

So, replacing the canister mounted lift pump had the truck running well for two days? That may be an indicator that the pump is toast. This is where a fuel pressure gauge would be beneficial.

As Papaduck mentioned in a previous post.,place a graduated container under the clear drain line projecting from the fuel filter canister and open the yellow drain lever. Now turn the key on and bump the starter. The lift pump should operate for 25 seconds and at least 2 quarts of fuel should drain into the container. If not replace the lift pump. If you get 2 quarts then replace the filter.

 

I am still running the one from the factory on my 03. But when they change the fuel from 1000 PPM to 15 PPM I started using out board oil 1OZ per gal now I use 1/2 per gal and Howes Diesel Treat summer mix all year longer.

 

I bought my Raptor100 over a year ago. Its still sitting in the box.
madhat even provided some excellent tips but I have a feeling getting the fuel line off and on the top of the tank is going to trip me up.
Did you have any problems?

 

Bark, I'm not lying... it's easy cheesy. Just squeeze and pull.

 

Bark,
I agree, madhat did indeed provide a "best practices" regarding the Raptor installation procedure. As far as removing the tank fuel line goes....that was easy. In order to reach the fitting, I squeezed my arm in between the rubber fuel tank filler hose and the bed. Removing the fuel line was fairly simple. First, I gave the blue clips at the rear of the fitting a squeeze with my thumb and index finger. Then placed the other three fingers around the fuel line and pulled. It took me about ten minutes to figure out how to get my big arm in there as that was more challenging than removing the fuel line.

It seems that the fuel line removal is a concern with many on the forum. It's not a big deal! I believe that the most challenging part to this kit is figuring out where to place the pump assembly along the frame rail.

The only issue that I experienced and now believe, was due to not tightening the 3/8" x 4 1/2" pump bracket bolts (that sandwich the frame) evenly. Unfortunately the threads tore out of the nuts while attempting to get the brackets tight. I tightened the nuts past the threaded portion of the bolts and into the non threaded shoulder on the bolts. The bolts seemed to be about 1/2" too long anyway, so I stopped by the local hardware store to purchase 4 - 3/8" x 4" (grade 8) bolts with the same shoulder or non threaded portion as the pump bolts. I also picked up 4 flat washers, new lock washers and grade 8 nuts. Prior to securing the pump to the frame, I placed rubber bumpers between the brackets and frame in order to silence any noise or resonance that may occur from metal to metal contact.

 

Thanks guys (didnt mean to hijack the thread). Maybe a beer or two will provide the extra courage needed.
Oh! The instructions that came with the raptor showed an outside rail mount but the pump itself (fuel flow direction) looks like it wants to be mounted on the inside (which is fine by me).