Anyone change one yet? I've only done GM stuff. This is the only problem I have had with this truck besides the rear door power lock. IS there a crush sleeve on the pinion? Does the pinion nut have to be preloaded for it? Any help would be good as my warranty is about 2 months exceeded. I only have 31k on the truck but 38 months since I bought it. Thanks.

 

Dealer did mine and I asked them the same questions, but they did not answer them. I will look in the service manual tonight.

 

Cool, thanks. Either way I guess I'll figure it out this weekend. Still don't know what to do with the darn power door lock though. I guess I'll have to take it in.

 

Staarma,

What is wrong with the door lock? I have the same vehicle as yours and had a problem with my rear window control. After looking around I found broken wires in the boot that goes from the door to the cab. Thought you might have the same problem but with different conductors. It was very easy to check. The boot at the cab side can be pulled off to expose the wires which are just loose in this boot. The break was very obvious in my truck. I repaired the wires and window again operates as expected. Of course that was after I spent $80 dollars for the rear switch and drivers door switch and problem was still present... At leaset I have spare switches if they ever fail...

Jeff

 

That's interesting to note. I'll check that at today. My first check was to take the panel off and see if voltage was present at the switch before replacing it but this sounds much easier before I begin that painstaking process. I never would have thought the wires could have broken. That is the door my kids go in and out of and we all know kids are tough on slamming doors, etc. as much as I tell them not to. Thanks for the tip.

 

Well, I just pulled the rubber back from the cab side of the door harness and sure enough, the wires are broken. There appears to be about 4 of them but only one broken in two. I connected it and the power door lock works for that door now. Thanks a lot for the info. I'm going to repost this in the non drivetrain area so it could help someone else.

 

It looks like my front pinion seal is leaking on my truck. I don't have the time or money to fix it right now. Is there any danger of it failing completely or will it just seep oil like it is now. I don't want to cook my gears. I need to check the level this weekend I guess.

 

If it starts really leaking then I would be careful of running it out of fluid or introducing water or dirt to it. I think it's relatively easy to change. Drop the shaft, back the nut off, pull the flange, crow foot seal puller and tap a new one in. The only problem I'm running into is the spec for retightening the pinion nut. So far it looks as though it's an inch pound measurement but like 2 inch pounds more than what it takes to loosen it or rotate the assembly (ring and pinion). It's vague I know but vague info is all I've found so far.

 

Mine is leaking too, it started just after my 36K warranty was up! I guess I should read up on it and contemplate doing it.

 

Mine has started leaking as well. The Dodge manual is pretty good at explaining it.

There is a crush sleeve. The 2"/lbs spec is for additional rotating torque of the pinion shaft after re-tightening.

Basically mark a reference mark on the nut and pinion shaft. I would also measure how much thread is sticking out of the nut as a reference for approx. how tight to reinstall it at. Check the rotating torque of the pinion shaft with the wheels off the ground. Loosen nut and use a puller to remove pinion flange. Remove seal and install new seal. Install pinion flange but don't beat it to get it back on as that could damage the crush sleeve. Tighten the nut until the mark you made is lined up and the same number of threads are sticking out. Check rotating torque and if necessary tighten the pinion nut in small increments until you get the additional 2"/lbs rotating torque required.

I still have the $100 deductible warranty on mine but for the price of the seal and the advantage of knowing it was done right I think I will do it myself.

 

That is pretty much the way I changed my front seal only I used a 1/2 inch impact to install the nut that was over a year ago so far no leaks or noise

 

I think you're supposed to remove tires and calipers to get a good torque spec.

 

Funny thing. Mine started leaking just after the 36k warranty was up. Maby Dodge Made it that way? Is it just on the 06's ??

 

Mine is an 04.5 and started leaking at two months past the 36 month warranty and 31k.

I think I'm going to just mark the pinion and nut and then let er buck. If I tighten it so the marks line up and then go a hair past that should get it. I got away with many Dana axles and some not. Worse thing that happens is the nut backs off and leaks or you can feel the vibe. New sleeve and rebuild while you're in there.

Thanks guys.

 

That is exactly how the tech did mine when it was repaired and that was 50,000 miles ago. Same way I will do it next time.