joncevans

Hey cowhand, I got your pm.. Yes they are BFG's 35''... I don't know much about caster, and camber angles, or how to set, or change them. I don't have access to another set of wheels, and tires to try out. I will try to check the measurements to see if the axle is centered, and get back to you on that one. Can I do the adjustments you are talking about at home in the driveway? Also do you or anyone in here know of a manual for the front end, or have pictures on how to change the caster, and camber angles?

Hey Gerry... I will call around to see if there is anyone around here that can spin balance the tires.

we are supposed to get a bunch of snow here tomorrow, and I am working out of town everyday right now, so progress will be hampered I'm sure. I don't have to drive it everyday right now, I have a company van to drive to work. ( 2 wheel drive van in the snow yipi....).


thanks again guys...

t-boe

I'll trade my stockers for your 35's.

Cowhand

35" BFG All Terrains are notorious for causing DW. I've seen several trucks have the DW mysteriously disappear after swapping in another set of rubber.

As for the caster change, look at the axle end of the control arm. There is a cam bolt on either side...loosen the nut and rotate the cam lobe toward the front of the truck for more caster. Don't forget to tighten the nut again.

Don't worry about camber, the only way to change it is with an adjustment cam in the upper ball joints. I'm not even sure if they make one for the AAM axles. It's not that critical unless it's out over .3-.4*.....

joncevans

T-boe.... don't tempt me... believe me I have thought about it..... (Really)

cowhand ....they are bfg mud terrain's, not all terrains.. sorry I should have said that earlier, but I don't know if it makes any difference, they are both bfg's. someone told me about the bead protector, and I thought it was a nice feature that might protect my new wheels from curbing scuff's.

joncevans

hey guys check this out... I emailed for information on a dynatrac manual locking hub, free spin conversion kit. This is what the guy wrote me back with...



Thanks for the recent e-mail. This seems to be a common problem, but I've experienced it more as Drive Shaft Vibration. Does that sound right? Usually "Death Wobble" refers to the Steering Linkage have alignment problems. With a 6" lift your linkage cannot be that far out of whack.

Unhook your front driveshaft and see if this cures the problem.

If it does, then my dodge Hub Conversion kit would be a cure. Part # CR60-2X1104-E will fit the '00'-07 Dodge 2500/3500 SRW Rams. This will allow the Front axle to be shut down by adding in a Manual Locking Hub system. It will also get rid of the weak factory Uni-Bearing setups. A lot of people are having issues with these as well, as they are an unserviceable style bearing and very expensive to replace.

I hope this helps you a little further, but please let me know if you have ANY questions. Thanks again!!



P.S. The Dodge Hub Conversion kits are $1895.00


what do you think???? Sales pitch, or is this another avenue to pursue, on my trial and error quest?

t-boe

At least he showed you a way to find out if you need it. I just have a problem paying $1895.00 for a kit that just gives you the ability to unlock the hubs. Warn and similar companies are selling stuff like that for Jeeps that cost less than $1,000. It may be strong, but is it THAT strong? I don't know. It would take some serious persuading.

joncevans

Yea its a little on the steep side for me too..... I looked, and searched the net for these at a lower price, or even a different brand, but no dice...

I don't really want the manual locking hub's, but the wheel bearing looks to be made a lot better...

joncevans

I checked the bolts, they are already set all the way forward...

deezlcruzr

My '04 came down with the wobble at about 45K miles. No lift or other mods, but running 35" BFG's. I've read till my eyes water and tried a few things with zero results. After another of the many visual inspections of the frontend, I found something that I wanted to run by you all.
With the front axle supported off the ground, I grabbed ahold of the tie rod, (link between the two front spindles) and rolled it back and forth. The curvature of the rod makes the front wheels 'steer' in opposite direction of each other ever so slightly. (to clarify; I don't believe the curvature of the link has any effect, but the angle of the tie rod ends in the link end causes the overall link 'length' to change)
Theory; with pressure from the steering box, a bump sets this link in motion allowing the front wheels to shimmy...???
Somebody check me out on this and tell me if you think it's possible, or if I'm seeing things.

Cowhand

Well, that's not cool......do you still have your factory wheels laying around somewhere?

And people wonder why I hate off the shelf "box kits".......

joncevans

No I sold the factory rubbers already... I had the lift on the truck for a while, with no problems, other than milage, so I sold them to a feller I was working with at the time.

If there is anyone in here near Richond Ky, that has a set of factory tires, they could loan me let me know....

joncevans

Thinking about buying some tires first, but I want them to fit if I take the lift off the truck. I'm kinda torn now, do I leave the lift on, and change the tires, or do I get a tire that will still fit the truck if I do take the lift off. I dont want tiny tires on a truck with a 6'' lift, and at the same time, if the lift comes off I dont want the tires to rub.... any ideas???

booman70

315s will fit on stock truck

joncevans

back to the top

JbD

Are the arrows on the cam bolts facing forward? You may have it adjusted the wrong way.

Something else simple you can try, raise your tire pressure a bit and see what happens. What PSI are you running them at and what does it say for max PSI on them?