Well, I had the instrument cluster out and fixed the tach issue. Ordered a new mask and lens since the original was cracked. So the truck sat for two weeks with the instrument cluster out.


At one point I unlocked the truck but the power locks wouldn't work, the head/tail/clearance lights were flickering. I installed the instrument cluster and it stopped. So the new mask arrived, I put everything back together and fired up the truck it ran great, tach worked, but it wouldn't turn off even if I took the key out? I tried a multitude of things to shut it off but was forced to pull the diesel pcm fuse (#42).


I disconnected the battery and waited about 10 minutes and sure enough the truck started right up and shut down. Restarted and it seemed fine until the third restart, it just cranked and cranked...but wouldn't fire off..


I heard a humming, like a fuel pump sound coming from under the truck ,back around the transmission. I think it was the throttle valve actuator? I unplugged the black wiring harness and it stopped.


Truck fired right up after that but would not shut off again.....


It's sitting in the driveway with both batteries disconnected.


Any thoughts?


Could turning the ignition switch on with the instrument cluster out cause this? I guess in hindsight I should have disconnected the batteries before pulling the cluster.

 

Ok, I disconnected the remote start - Audiovox- left it sit overnight with the batteries disconnected and now it starts but shuts off after 3 seconds. I hear a constant ticking noise from the left side lower. Check engine light is on.

I'm so disgusted with this truck I could puke.
any ideas?

 

"I heard a humming, like a fuel pump sound coming from under the truck ,back around the transmission. I think it was the throttle valve actuator? I unplugged the black wiring harness and it stopped. "


Did you plug this back in?






"Could turning the ignition switch on with the instrument cluster out cause this? I guess in hindsight I should have disconnected the batteries before pulling the cluster. "




Don't know, but you are lucky you didn't get an air bag in your face! Always disconnect batteries when doing electrical and dash work like that!




47

 

I did plug it back in and it stopped.

I'm starting to think the immobilizer system is not accepting both of my factory keys. The truck starts, runs for 3 seconds then shuts down. After several attempts the engine will crank but not start.

I disconnected the Audiovox remote start but nothing has changed. The previous owner ignored the warnings in the owners manual about remote start systems...I think I'm paying the price for that.

what is the ticking sound that comes on under the hood, bottom of the engine. I'll go make a video and link it here.

 

Ok, so I completely disconnected the batteries, the remote start and let the key in the ignition. Reconnected the batteries and it fired right up and ran great.....turned the key off and removed it from the ignition and once again the engine would not shut off. I had to pull the injection pcm fuse to kill the motor.

 

what is the ticking sound in the video? It almost seems like it's coming from under the valve cover.

 

Sounds like the #1 injector firing to purge air out of the system while starting. It's normal.

Appears the factory immobilizer system is the problem and IIRC its a module that ties in or integrated into the IP. Probably going to require a trip to dealership.

 

UPDATE

Took the truck to Hoover Brothers in Elliotsburg PA....they sent my ECM out for testing/repair. The ECM motherboard was toast. Burned up.

Used remanufactured board $1700
New ECM from Cummins $2300
Squeal like a pig Deliverance rape FREE <banjo player

Luckily for me, the folks at Hoover Brohams were cool with me ordering a remanufactured ECM from autocomputerexchange.com with a 3 year warranty for $600 (shipping included). I ordered the part today, they shipped this afternoon, I should have it early next week. I drop my part in their box, slap on their return label and that's it.

Apparently, when I disconnected the instrument cluster, then turned the ignition ON to put the windows up, the ECM farted.

Moral of the story....if you are going to unplug your instrument cluster, DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERIES!


to be continued........

 

Ummmmm..... OUCH!!!

Hope the new ECM fixes it. Please update when it arrives.

 

About 6 months ago I had performed the refloating of the solder on the pins on the back of the circuit board and it worked great for a month or so. Then it was back to the old possessed tack again. I'll have to go back and try this to see if that finishes the job.

Thanks for posting.

 

Crap, this went into the wrong thread. It was supposed to go in the thread where you pulled your tach out in the first place. Sorry, carry on.