Smelled fuel in the cab on the drive home. Pulled over, popped the hood and fuel was sprayng out all over (see pics-you can see the spray. The two pics that don't show the spray are of the bolt/line that was leaking). Sorry, they're cell phone pics.

I'm assuming that this is covered under the Cummins warranty but don't want to pay for the tow. Can I just replace the line?? It seems that a seal blew as the fuel was spraying out where the fuel line goes into the bolt.

Also, had to get off the highway so I drove an additional mile up the road and as I turned off I heard a loud "pop". Stopped and started the truck a couple of times during my initial stop/troubleshoot but after I moved the truck and after the "pop", I shut it off and tried to re-start and she's definitely dead now. She'll turn over but won't fire - I'm assuming due to low/no fuel pressure.

I have very little experience with diesel engines as the truck is still new and I haven't had any engine issues (only tranny and they were warrantied). I recently installed an AFE Stage II - other than that, she's stock. Could that have caused it?? I want to avoid the dealer if I can.
Please help.

 

you cracked the #4 injector pipe. pretty common.

 

So can I simply replace the pipe, fire her up and I'm good or do I need to deal with the "***********" and deal with swapping out my AFE for the stock airbox and getting the tow etc, etc, etc in order to have the warranty coverage??

It looke like a simple repair with hand tools but I've made that assumption before!!!

 

sorry, I gues the site administrator didn't like my nickname for "dealership". Read between the " " on my previous post!!!

 

Yeah, pretty much uscrew both ends and remove the hold down bracket. Carefull when putting it back on , and taking off for that matter, to hold the nut at the head when loosening and tightening the line. I can post the complete procedure here after a few minutes.

 

CAUTION: Cleanliness cannot be overemphasized when handling or replacing diesel fuel system components. This especially includes the fuel injectors, high-pressure fuel lines and fuel injection pump. Very tight tolerances are used with these parts. Dirt contamination could cause rapid part wear and possible plugging of fuel injector nozzle tip holes. This in turn could lead to possible engine misfire. Always wash/clean any fuel system component thoroughly before disassembly and then air dry. Cap or cover any open part after disassembly. Before assembly, examine each part for dirt, grease or other contaminants and clean if necessary. When installing new parts, lubricate them with clean engine oil or clean diesel fuel only.

Disconnect both negative battery cables from both batteries. Cover and isolate ends of cables.
Thoroughly clean fuel lines at both ends.
If removing fuel line at either #1 or #2 cylinder, the intake manifold air heater elements must first be removed from top of intake manifold. Refer to Intake Air Heater Removal / Installation for procedures.
If removing fuel line at #6 cylinder, a bracket (BRACKET - No. 6 INJECTOR) is located above fuel line connection at cylinder head. Two bolts secure this bracket to rear of cylinder head. The upper bolt hole is slotted. Loosen (but do not remove) these 2 bracket bolts. Tilt bracket down to gain access to #6 fuel line connection.
Remove engine lift bracket (if necessary).
Remove necessary insulated fuel line support clamps (FUEL INJECTOR RAIL) and bracket bolts at intake manifold. DO NOT remove insulators from fuel lines.
Place shop towels around fuel lines at fuel rail and injectors. If possible, do not allow fuel to drip down side of engine.
CAUTION: WHEN LOOSENING OR TIGHTENING HIGH-PRESSURE LINES ATTACHED TO A SEPARATE FITTING (HIGH PRESSURE FUEL LINES) , USE A BACK-UP WRENCH ON FITTING. DO NOT ALLOW FITTING TO ROTATE. DAMAGE TO BOTH FUEL LINE AND FITTING WILL RESULT.

Carefully remove each fuel line from engine. Note position of each while removing. Do not bend lines while removing.

 

vzdude, you are a god!!! I would appreciate any help you could offer as I'll need to get it finxed in the AM. The less I have to deal with the dealer, the better!!!

Is the "pop" that I heard anything to worry about??

 

INSTALLATION
All high-pressure fuel lines are of the same length and inside diameter. Correct high-pressure fuel line usage and installation is critical to smooth engine operation.

CAUTION: Anytime a high-pressure line is removed from the engine, its fuel connector nut at the cylinder head must first be retorqued. Refer to Torque Specifications.

Tighten fuel lines at high pressure injector connector. Refer to Torque Specifications.
Position fuel line support clamp(s) to fuel line(s). Install clamp nuts/bolts and tighten finger tight.
Position proper fuel line to proper injector on engine. Tighten fittings hand tight at both ends of line.
Tighten fuel lines at fuel rail. Refer to Torque Specifications.
Tighten clamp/support nuts and bolts. Refer to Torque Specifications.
Install engine lifting bracket and bolt. Refer to Torque Specifications.
If fuel line at either #1 or #2 cylinder has been replaced, install intake manifold air heater elements to top of intake manifold. Refer to Intake Air Heater Removal / Installation for procedures.
If fuel line at #6 cylinder has been replaced, tilt metal bracket upward and tighten 2 bolts at rear of cylinder head. Refer to Torque Specifications.
Install remaining fuel line support clamps and bracket bolts at intake manifold. Refer to Torque Specifications.
Connect both negative battery cables to both batteries.
Prime fuel system. Refer to Fuel System Priming.
Check lines/fittings for leaks.

 

Probably just the line when it let loose. Thats a lot of pressure!

 

Do I need to remove the above to simply replace the injector line??

 

vzdude, thanks for the detailed install procedure. I'll get the parts and tear her down in the morning. I'll let you all know how it went!!!

 

is this a common problem? any one line more common than the rest? i think i have a fuel leak somewhere because there seems to be a light coating of fuel on the lines/manifold area, but i see no obvous leaks when running. any ideas?

 

Always use a piece of cardboard when looking for high pressure leaks. NEVER put your hand near the lines or any high pressure fitting whatsoever when it is running. The pressure is enough to penetrate the skin and if it gets to yiour heart or brain it can KILL YOU! There are some dyes you can put in the fuel to look for leaks and check with a black light. That is what I would reccomend if it is a small leak. That or just take the time to torque everything properly and double check the fittings. A High pressure line leak would make a HUGE mess!

 

Dodgezilla and vzdudue, thanks a bunch for the valuable info you provided yesterday!! Went to the dealer this morning... $35 part and 30 minutes to swap out the #4 injector line!!!! Beats the hell out of the $150 dollar tow and losing a day having the monkeys at the dealership mess around.
The whole process was very easy thanks to you guys. I have a knack for breaking other things when I go to do these repairs so I'm glad all went well!!!!!

 

It may be another model year I am thinking of...Wasn't there a bracket on a recall or tsb to support one of the fuel lines?

Tony