Z-MAN

Drove fine until one day just didn't want to start anymore. I had a bunch of codes but they went away as soon as I replaced the batteries. All I can tell is that of right now I have brand new batteries and the fuel filter housing is filled with diesel which I guess it means the pump is working. I don't know about the fuel injection pump, how do I check it and what else should I check for? Please help, I really need to get the truck rolling, it is my daily driver but unfortunately I can't afford to pay a dealer right now. Big thank you for any advice, I am very desperate right now.

madhat

Where are you at in SC?

frwinks

lots of good info in this thread on "crank but no start"
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...e-t303454.html
Quick and dirty test...Open the water separator lever at the filter, crank it over, if you have fuel pouring out of the tube into a container, in tank pump is good, move on to the bosch pump, slightly crack the line going to the rail, if you have seepage, the big$$ pump is good, then you're into testing the pressure regs and injectors. Something I didn't have to do because my injection pump was shot.

Z-MAN

Yes MadHat, I was in SC with MALS, if you remember, we even talked a few times.

Z-MAN

Thank you frwinks, I will try that and post what I found.

madhat

Were or are? I was just trying to see if I was close enough to help.

I don't recommend cracking injector lines past the CP3, so if you do, be very careful. Fuel pressures can exceed 26k psi coming from the pump.

It could be your pressure relief valve stuck open, could be your rail pressure sensor. You could unplug the FCA to command full pressure and see if it starts that way. Have you tried pulling the codes again?

BigIron70

Make sure you re-attached the ground wire at the left side battery. Without that connected it will crank but not start.

madhat

I did not know that... good info.

BigIron70

Goes right to the ECM for a ground, later years the ground location was moved away from the battery. I think because battery terminal corrosion was causing high resistance and voltage drop to the ECM and setting low voltage codes and no start problems.
Electronic fan clutch can also cause a crank no start, disconnect the fan clutch connector. Then if it starts replace the fan clutch.

Z-MAN

Hey Big Iron, I've checked all the wires and they're attached as they're suppose to be.

Z-MAN

Madhat, thanks for trying to come over and help, I really need it but the truck gave up on me in Florida where I'm stationed and now I'm back home in SC to spend the weekend with my family. I'm in Bluffton, moved out of Beaufort a few years back.

Z-MAN

When I'll get back to the truck in a couple of days, I will try all you suggested. Thanks again.

Z-MAN

Today I had less than an hour of daylight available to work on my truck. I disconnected the fuel lines coming into the fuel injection pump and going out. I did it one by one starting with the line coming from the fuel filter housing and cranking the engine each time for each line. I had fuel coming out every time. When I took down completely the line going from the fuel injection pump to the common rail, i have seen fuel flowing out while cranking but not with a lot of pressure, for some reason I was expecting a jet of fuel spraying around like crazy but that wasn't the case. Is this normal? Where is the pressure actually forming? I would say that based on what I've seen today I have a feeling the fuel injection pump is good. Tomorrow I will try something else, I don't know yet what but I'm waiting for more suggestions. Thank you guys.

Z-MAN

I forgot to mention that I've got a lot of codes this time. I didn't write them down 'cause I was unprepared and didn't have a fricking pen but I can say that after the 10th code I lost the exact count, anyways I've got probably 20 or so codes, some in the 200 cat others in 300, 400, 500, 600, 2000, 1700 and so on. Crazy think. I'll get them on the paper tomorrow.