Do the remain engine and be done with it. You can still upgrade the Cam, Springs, studs for $1100-1200 in parts. That can be done before it goes in the truck which will make it easy. Just make sure it is a quality remain. Hopefully they have used that company before and can vouch for it.

 

what kind of cam,springs? what name brand are u referring to? i dont think im going with studs because if i ever want to remove head in future i have to pull engine.

 

the only mod i wanna do so far is i might get them to add a 150 gph fass. just for filtration insurance.

 

I don't understand this? why would you have to pull the engine if you use studs? I really hope you get this thing back together and it works out well for you. you have a lot more patience than I do for sure.

 

My dad had a 81 Oldsmobile with a 350 diesel in it. Motor only lasted 72,000 miles. Smokey nonturbo diesel, great mpg though.

 

it was a joke.......like this thread

 

awwww SNAP!

 

mechanic you say..... you pull the studs out of the block while the head is in place, then pull the head.

Good luck!

 

thats what i figured. the diesel shop said id have to pull engine. couldnt a guy double nut the studs and wind them out? any1 who has studded head your input would be appreciated as they will be putting engine together in 2 weeks time as they are waiting for pistons yet.

would it pay to just head stud and not fire ring? reason being is head studs are only $400 more but they said it would be a pile more to get head fire ringed.

 

I don't know why I answer some of these questions. The diesel shop you are using are staffed by idiots. The studs are typically removed with an Allen wrench. Look at the photo below. Others may have a smaller six point head on top. The studs are not torqued into the block so they are relatively easy to remove.

 

lol. i figured that. im just going by what they say. theyve done 5.9 cummins before i have not. i thought you could pull them outmyself. would it pay to do just the head studs without fire ringing?

 

If I had this happen, i would take the engine out, have all the cylinders bored, and sleeved, then start over, it will be a new engine. If you have a friend in the business, won't cost you too much coin to do.

For that price, check out a junkyard/ebay/craigslist, something. Most can buy a new motor with a few miles for under 10,000. Stock yes, but it's a new motor with low miles.

I know you mentioned you work on heads, but boring, that's the same as porting, or making bigger. nothing is bullet proof in life. All it takes is one idiot to screw even perfect up.

Why is your engine scarred? Did somebody say something scary to it?

Your right FACTORY, from what you've said, edge, this, that, it's not factory. That's like trying to have walmart fix your Lenox furnace


That has to be the funniest thing I've heard ont his forum yet

I agree with you, but I don't think that shop has seen a 5.9 before. a GOOD shop should have that thing turned around in less than a week (hell should be 2 days)

Get the truck running. I know a lot have given you a lot s**t and this and that, but that comes from wanting so much on the truck, when most would focus on getting the thing running first. Get it fixed, get it back on the road, then worry about all the other stuff later. You can always o ring, and stud later, bolts are fine, and the stock gasket is fine up untill you get higher PSI (45-50) but unless you plan to mod like crazy, you shouldn't need fire rings, or head studs, or this, or that.

I'd get the truck back on the road, then worry about all the other stuff (cam, this and that) yes it's money but from you saing 20,000 for a motor and you owe 20,000 on the truck, heck for 30 you could go buy a new 09-10 model year diesel

OH, and go snap some pictures, I'm sure others would love to see the carnage (like a crash at a race)