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Driver door lock

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Old 01-14-2007 | 02:34 PM
  #16  
morkable's Avatar
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From: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Is removal of the rear door panels as easy?

Kevin
Old 02-01-2007 | 12:08 AM
  #17  
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From: McKinney, TX
Originally Posted by Stew130
just had mine go out today. got out of the truck, pressed the remote and locked fine. came out of the store and pressed the remote and all but the driver's door unlocked. can't even budge it a little with the key. can open the door from inside with the handle but it goes right back to locked when handle is released. i tried pulling up on the door lock but it's stuck really well. when that solenoid goes, it holds pretty well. haven't checked on the price though, hopefully won't need a 2nd mortgage.


Originally Posted by Stew130
Just replaced the driver's door electronic door lock solenoid. it is all part of the latch assembly. $41 @ dealership. it was easier than i thought, about 1 hour total. make sure window is up. removed door panel;; 4 phillips screws and the door handle (has screw that can use either Torx or 10mm socket). lift panel an inch or so, and disconnected wires to window, mirror, and lock switch assembly. pulled back the plastic sheet. disconnected actuator rods from latch assembly; door lock **** first. then inner door handle (removed handle end also and set aside, rod should have painted marks to identify proper placement on latch, if not mark it yourself), then disconnected the other 3 rods from the latch. removed latch bolts securing it to the door (3 Torx bolts). i was able to work the latch around and out of the door opening and then disconnected the wire bundle. assembly was reverse and fairly easy.



Thanks for this information!!! Mine just did the EXACT same thing today when I got out of my truck at work. It locked as normal. When I came back to it, I tried to unlock it with the key fob and all the other 3 door unlocked fine but the driver door lock wouldn't move. I had to reach over and open it from the inside. Tried the key. Wouldn't work. Tried the key fob several more times. Nothing. Tried the key again while pulling on the interior door handle....could feel the key turning or attempting to turn it, but it still wouldn't unlock. Sounds like my solenoid is out too. I will get a new one Friday and play with it some Saturday at our N. Texas DTR get together or pay Big Blue in beer to help me with it.
Old 02-01-2007 | 02:11 PM
  #18  
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From: So. Cal.
Originally Posted by mishkaya
I had this problem on my car, it turned out to be the solenoid that had gone bad and needed replaced.
mishkaya
Same here, solenoid froze. The key would turn, with some pressure, and then pop back locked. Solenoid replaced(under warranty) and problem solved.
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Old 10-02-2007 | 11:58 AM
  #19  
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From: Cummig Ga.
Man! Where R U guys getting these door lock assemblies for $40 bucks? And just what is the part number? My 1999 2500 passenger side lock went out and 2 dealers in my area want $150 plus!!!

I told them to frame it and hang it on the wall cause it sure aint going in MY truck! !Q@#$$^& CROOKS!!!

I need a REASONABLE fix for this thing! Thanks!
Old 02-12-2008 | 04:36 PM
  #21  
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From: Massachusetts
Most likley a drivers door actuator. Test for voltage at the motor when you hit the switch or fob, if you have voltage the motor is bad.
Old 02-12-2008 | 09:17 PM
  #23  
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From: Southeastern,OH.
Originally Posted by Hipshot
Man! Where R U guys getting these door lock assemblies for $40 bucks? And just what is the part number? My 1999 2500 passenger side lock went out and 2 dealers in my area want $150 plus!!!

I told them to frame it and hang it on the wall cause it sure aint going in MY truck! !Q@#$$^& CROOKS!!!

I need a REASONABLE fix for this thing! Thanks!
I have replaced one front and one rear on mine. They both take about the same amount of time and are relatively easy to do. The passenger rear was the first I replaced and it took me approximately 45 minutes. The driver side front took me 25-30 minutes after gaining experience on the first one. One thing nobody has mentioned is to loosen one of the torx screws that holds the window channel in place, remove the other and slide the channel out of the way. It makes the job go much easier. Date of invoice, part numbers and pricing as follows:
02/23/07 55276794-AD Latch rear door, List 27.95, Net 20.94, Amount 20.94
06/14/07 55372851-AA Latch front door, List 35.85, Net 26.88, Amount 26.88
I purchased mine at the local Dodge dealer. The parts guy has always treated me well on the prices. He gives me wholesale prices. In fact one of the invoices is billed to T#1 Wholesale Cash and the other to Ken's Auto Outlet. Works for me! Even without any discount the latches are reasonably priced. They should be seeing how they are junk. The driver side front has already started to make a high pitched noise, the same as the other one did just before it failed. Hopefully it goes out before the 12 month 12,000 mile warranty runs out.

Now on to the next matter at hand. Moderator please move this thread to the 3rd Generation Non Drivetrain forum.
Old 05-28-2010 | 03:45 PM
  #24  
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From: El Dorado Hills, CA
How do you get the actuator rod disconnected from the latch??? This is show stopper, dont want to force off and break. any help, greatly appreciated.
Old 05-29-2010 | 10:32 PM
  #25  
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From: Southeastern,OH.
It is held in place by the plastic clip. You just pop the clip up and slide the rod out. When you get your new lock it will be easier to get an idea how the clip latches. By the way I had to purchase another actuator last fall and it ran me $90.00. So much for the good old days!

Last edited by Jonesey; 05-29-2010 at 10:36 PM. Reason: Addition of latest price paid.
Old 06-01-2010 | 12:27 AM
  #26  
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From: El Dorado Hills, CA
Jonesey, thanks for the tip. Took me a bit to figure out, but is easy
I paid close to a $100 for the electric latch at Folsom lake dodge in CALI
Old 03-27-2013 | 10:16 PM
  #27  
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From: SLC, UT
Originally Posted by Pull U 2
Ok mine is doing this exact thing now except mine will lock and unlock with the key. Using the FOB will lock and unlock all but the drivers door. Key will work fine and handles work fine just nothing with the FOB. Anyone know what part I will need?
same problem here.....is there a new actuator in my future?
Old 05-25-2013 | 12:22 AM
  #28  
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From: USA
Originally Posted by GASKICKER
same problem here.....is there a new actuator in my future?
I had then same problem 3 doors would unlock one wouldn't, 1 window would not work. I took of the door panel and pull back the black coiling thing covering the wires and found 2 broken wires I repaired them then bought a new master control for 80 bucks off ebay and now my windows and doors all work
Old 04-03-2017 | 03:59 PM
  #29  
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If you're broke as I am, anything over $5 is to much.. When mine did this this morning, I took the latch assembly out, and there are 2 screws that hold a cover in place on the latch itself. Pull out those 2 screws, pull off the cover, and remove the WHITE gear assembly. It's connected to the electric actuator built into the assembly. Put it back together, and BAM!! Instant working door latch(minus the electric opening/locking). Key and inside door lock will work like nothing ever happened...
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