Driver door lock
#17
just had mine go out today. got out of the truck, pressed the remote and locked fine. came out of the store and pressed the remote and all but the driver's door unlocked. can't even budge it a little with the key. can open the door from inside with the handle but it goes right back to locked when handle is released. i tried pulling up on the door lock but it's stuck really well. when that solenoid goes, it holds pretty well. haven't checked on the price though, hopefully won't need a 2nd mortgage.
Just replaced the driver's door electronic door lock solenoid. it is all part of the latch assembly. $41 @ dealership. it was easier than i thought, about 1 hour total. make sure window is up. removed door panel;; 4 phillips screws and the door handle (has screw that can use either Torx or 10mm socket). lift panel an inch or so, and disconnected wires to window, mirror, and lock switch assembly. pulled back the plastic sheet. disconnected actuator rods from latch assembly; door lock **** first. then inner door handle (removed handle end also and set aside, rod should have painted marks to identify proper placement on latch, if not mark it yourself), then disconnected the other 3 rods from the latch. removed latch bolts securing it to the door (3 Torx bolts). i was able to work the latch around and out of the door opening and then disconnected the wire bundle. assembly was reverse and fairly easy.
Thanks for this information!!! Mine just did the EXACT same thing today when I got out of my truck at work. It locked as normal. When I came back to it, I tried to unlock it with the key fob and all the other 3 door unlocked fine but the driver door lock wouldn't move. I had to reach over and open it from the inside. Tried the key. Wouldn't work. Tried the key fob several more times. Nothing. Tried the key again while pulling on the interior door handle....could feel the key turning or attempting to turn it, but it still wouldn't unlock. Sounds like my solenoid is out too. I will get a new one Friday and play with it some Saturday at our N. Texas DTR get together or pay Big Blue in beer to help me with it.
#19
Man! Where R U guys getting these door lock assemblies for $40 bucks? And just what is the part number? My 1999 2500 passenger side lock went out and 2 dealers in my area want $150 plus!!!
I told them to frame it and hang it on the wall cause it sure aint going in MY truck! !Q@#$$^& CROOKS!!!
I need a REASONABLE fix for this thing! Thanks!
I told them to frame it and hang it on the wall cause it sure aint going in MY truck! !Q@#$$^& CROOKS!!!
I need a REASONABLE fix for this thing! Thanks!
#20
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Ok mine is doing this exact thing now except mine will lock and unlock with the key. Using the FOB will lock and unlock all but the drivers door. Key will work fine and handles work fine just nothing with the FOB. Anyone know what part I will need?
#23
Man! Where R U guys getting these door lock assemblies for $40 bucks? And just what is the part number? My 1999 2500 passenger side lock went out and 2 dealers in my area want $150 plus!!!
I told them to frame it and hang it on the wall cause it sure aint going in MY truck! !Q@#$$^& CROOKS!!!
I need a REASONABLE fix for this thing! Thanks!
I told them to frame it and hang it on the wall cause it sure aint going in MY truck! !Q@#$$^& CROOKS!!!
I need a REASONABLE fix for this thing! Thanks!
02/23/07 55276794-AD Latch rear door, List 27.95, Net 20.94, Amount 20.94
06/14/07 55372851-AA Latch front door, List 35.85, Net 26.88, Amount 26.88
I purchased mine at the local Dodge dealer. The parts guy has always treated me well on the prices. He gives me wholesale prices. In fact one of the invoices is billed to T#1 Wholesale Cash and the other to Ken's Auto Outlet. Works for me! Even without any discount the latches are reasonably priced. They should be seeing how they are junk. The driver side front has already started to make a high pitched noise, the same as the other one did just before it failed. Hopefully it goes out before the 12 month 12,000 mile warranty runs out.
Now on to the next matter at hand. Moderator please move this thread to the 3rd Generation Non Drivetrain forum.
#25
It is held in place by the plastic clip. You just pop the clip up and slide the rod out. When you get your new lock it will be easier to get an idea how the clip latches. By the way I had to purchase another actuator last fall and it ran me $90.00. So much for the good old days!
Last edited by Jonesey; 05-29-2010 at 10:36 PM. Reason: Addition of latest price paid.
#27
same problem here.....is there a new actuator in my future?
#28
I had then same problem 3 doors would unlock one wouldn't, 1 window would not work. I took of the door panel and pull back the black coiling thing covering the wires and found 2 broken wires I repaired them then bought a new master control for 80 bucks off ebay and now my windows and doors all work
#29
If you're broke as I am, anything over $5 is to much.. When mine did this this morning, I took the latch assembly out, and there are 2 screws that hold a cover in place on the latch itself. Pull out those 2 screws, pull off the cover, and remove the WHITE gear assembly. It's connected to the electric actuator built into the assembly. Put it back together, and BAM!! Instant working door latch(minus the electric opening/locking). Key and inside door lock will work like nothing ever happened...
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