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Driver door lock

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Old 12-28-2005 | 10:36 AM
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zeek's Avatar
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From: Coronado CA.
Driver door lock

When I push my remote once my door lock does not open on drivers side, but when I push it the second time the other 3 unlock, but the drivers door still doesn't unlock. Any other problems of this sort out there, and if so chime in....... Thanks, tired of going through the passenger door.
Old 12-28-2005 | 10:57 AM
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Sounds like your drivers door lock aint working . If its unlocked will it lock with the remote??
Old 12-28-2005 | 10:58 AM
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From: tampa/land o lakes,fl
wiil it unlock manualy with the key or by pulling up on the lock **** inside?
Old 12-28-2005 | 11:54 AM
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If you take the inside door pannel off , then see if you can move the likage by hand , it could a little rust and some litheum grease in a spray can and moving by hand to free up , the nest thing is the electric solinoid that moves the linkage, for both or these disconnect the linkage so they can move independtly, with the disconnected the solinoid should move if not then check with a test lite to see that its getting power , also check that it has a good ground, while your there use that spray on all the moving parts.
Old 12-28-2005 | 05:05 PM
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Here is a hint, use the key!!!!!!
I just had to say that.
It's like driving across the street to go to another store.
Old 12-28-2005 | 09:05 PM
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Thanks for the replies. The lock never unlocks, key or remote. Have to go through the passenger side or leave window down and reach in and open with handle. Getting pretty old. Just was wondering if anyone else had experienced this problem. This is my 9th Diesel Ram and never had any types of abnormal problems like this one.
Old 12-28-2005 | 09:13 PM
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I had this problem on my car, it turned out to be the solenoid that had gone bad and needed replaced.
mishkaya
Old 12-28-2005 | 09:17 PM
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Driver door lock

Zeek

I had this problem last summer. I could only open the door from inside. It appeared the solenoid was frozen as the linkage could not be moved. Dealer replaced solenoid / switch and it worked fine after that. The work was covered under warranty.

Roy
Old 12-28-2005 | 09:19 PM
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The lock solenoid in the door is quite possibly bad, it's a simple electric motor but when they seize up they won't move and have to be replaced, could be worse it could be stuck unlocked!
Old 12-28-2005 | 09:24 PM
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sounds to me like the door rod or lock rod, whatever you wanna call it, has came off, its the rod that goes from key switch to manual locking mechanism inside, if under warranty take it in, if not, take door panel off and you'll probably see a rod laying down, simply reattach it and you'll be fine
Old 12-28-2005 | 09:32 PM
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Appriciate all your replies, sounds like the solenoid. I'll make an appt. with the dealer and get my truck fixed . Thanks
Old 12-30-2005 | 06:15 AM
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I have the same prob, the dealer will be replacing the electronic latch assembly tomorrow.
Old 01-12-2007 | 03:43 PM
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just had mine go out today. got out of the truck, pressed the remote and locked fine. came out of the store and pressed the remote and all but the driver's door unlocked. can't even budge it a little with the key. can open the door from inside with the handle but it goes right back to locked when handle is released. i tried pulling up on the door lock but it's stuck really well. when that solenoid goes, it holds pretty well. haven't checked on the price though, hopefully won't need a 2nd mortgage.
Old 01-12-2007 | 04:07 PM
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My right rear door does that intermittently. I think is has something to do with the window tinting process. If you've ever watched them do it they use an insane amount of soap and water. I was concerned, but they told me it won't hurt anything. If the dealer won't fix it because of that, they will.
Old 01-13-2007 | 05:16 PM
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From: in a house...
Just replaced the driver's door electronic door lock solenoid. it is all part of the latch assembly. $41 @ dealership. it was easier than i thought, about 1 hour total. make sure window is up. removed door panel;; 4 phillips screws and the door handle (has screw that can use either Torx or 10mm socket). lift panel an inch or so, and disconnected wires to window, mirror, and lock switch assembly. pulled back the plastic sheet. disconnected actuator rods from latch assembly; door lock **** first. then inner door handle (removed handle end also and set aside, rod should have painted marks to identify proper placement on latch, if not mark it yourself), then disconnected the other 3 rods from the latch. removed latch bolts securing it to the door (3 Torx bolts). i was able to work the latch around and out of the door opening and then disconnected the wire bundle. assembly was reverse and fairly easy.


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