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Dealer recommends these things be done

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Old 08-24-2012, 03:20 PM
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Dealer recommends these things be done

1) New batteries - not a big surprise as they're 8 yrs old. I know the Diehard Platinums are highly revered here. But, my budget can't handle that right now. Is there anything decent from Autozone or ??? Is it a big deal to replace these myself? When doing so, do you disconnect both batteries first or do them one at a time? Anything special that needs to be done in the R&R?

2) Power steering flush - How important is this?

3) Front sway bar links upper bushings are a little worn and cracking - what's involved in this? Should I address it now or wait until they become a lot worn?

4) Also, I have had some slight oil leaks in the front of the engine. They told me they couldn't identify the source. So, they put in dye and told me to come back in about 1000 miles and they'd identify the source. They think it's either the pan or the rear main seal. How could a rear main seal leak in the front?

65K on truck. Feedback appreciated as always.
Old 08-24-2012, 03:43 PM
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1) New batteries - not a big surprise as they're 8 yrs old. I know the Diehard Platinums are highly revered here. But, my budget can't handle that right now. Is there anything decent from Autozone or ??? Is it a big deal to replace these myself? When doing so, do you disconnect both batteries first or do them one at a time? Anything special that needs to be done in the R&R?
I bought two batteries from Autozone (don't even remeber the brand) that have a 2 yr warranty that have been problem free. However, yes, you need to replace them both at the same time (if not, your weak battery will suck power off the new one until your in the same boat again...)
2) Power steering flush - How important is this?
I have 100K on mine and have never had this done (not that your doesn't need it). Is your power steering stiffer that normal? Tough to turn from a dead stop? Noice from your power steering pump? If not, I wouldn't bother...
3) Front sway bar links upper bushings are a little worn and cracking - what's involved in this? Should I address it now or wait until they become a lot worn?
Cracking and looking worn are common with your mileage. Not an authority on this so I really don't have an opinion here. Personally, I haven't replaced anything on the front that didn't already start making noise or noticeably making the truck ride rough (hubs & ball joints). I'm sure someone may have an opinion on this theory, but it's the truth.
4) Also, I have had some slight oil leaks in the front of the engine. They told me they couldn't identify the source. So, they put in dye and told me to come back in about 1000 miles and they'd identify the source. They think it's either the pan or the rear main seal. How could a rear main seal leak in the front? Sorry, no experience here. Did they charge you for this "dye service"? Just curious...
Old 08-24-2012, 03:49 PM
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Thanks for the responses. Understood that both batteries should be replaced. I was wondering about the procedure for replacing them. Disconnect both batteries first and replace both at once? Disconnect and replace one at a time?

My steering is fine. No symptoms at all. This is one of those dealers that recommends injector flushes so I'm always wary.

No charge for the dye. When I bring it back to have them look, maybe they'll charge me then ...

Thanks.
Old 08-24-2012, 11:03 PM
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Disconnect the negative terminals first on both, then the positives. Reverse order when installing. Make sure the battery posts and the inside of the cable ends are shiny clean before installing them. Make sure the cables go down as far as possible on the battery posts and then tighten them. I like to use some spray on terminal protector to keep them from corroding.

Sway bar bushings are your call. Again they can't be that difficult to do, I haven't done mine yet tho...

For my money an oil leak isn't a leak worth fixing unless A) it's under warranty, or B) It's dripping on the ground.

I don't recall the mileage I did it at, but I did my own power steering flush in the driveway. It is not that difficult and the power steering fluid does get abused pretty good. I vote do it, but do it yourself.
Old 08-25-2012, 02:12 AM
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Regarding the power steering fluid, I take a turkey baster and suck out the old and replace with fresh ATF +4 trans fluid.......every 25K miles. It doesn't get it all out, but it gets the majority out. If you haven't done it before, you might try it once then do it again in a 1000 miles or so etc....the first time. I'm still on the original power steering unit with 175K miles.

Hope that helps.

..
Old 08-25-2012, 02:10 PM
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Have you seen the sign "it is cheaper to change your oil than your engine" The same applies to PS fluid.. does it smell burned? do a search their is several good threads on how to do it..
Old 08-25-2012, 02:13 PM
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I need to give my PS fluid a smell but have 170K and have not had any steering troubles to date..
Old 08-25-2012, 08:17 PM
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I bought the new auto zone duralast platinum batteries about 6 months ago. I wanted the Die hard but saved over $100 going with the duralast AGM's.

I like and recommend Thuren fab end links. they are well built and beefy.
Old 08-27-2012, 12:00 PM
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Thanks for the great replies. I will search for the PS fluid flush threads (although the turkey baster suggestion is about my speed).

Anyone buy the Duralast Gold batteries? They seem like a good value.

Thanks.
Old 08-27-2012, 07:11 PM
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I've had good luck with Duralast batteries, but haven't bought any in over 5 years now.

Are the batteries giving you problems, or is it one of those things "they are 8 years old so we want to replace them now and take your money even though they may go a couple more years"?
Old 08-27-2012, 10:03 PM
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Disconnect the negative terminals first on both, then the positives. Reverse order when installing.

Old 08-28-2012, 04:14 AM
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Originally Posted by NJMurvin
Thanks for the great replies. I will search for the PS fluid flush threads (although the turkey baster suggestion is about my speed).

Anyone buy the Duralast Gold batteries? They seem like a good value.

Thanks.
I use the turkey baster to empty the resevoir at each 30k miles. Changing some of the fluid should help the power steering system to last longer.

I put the Duralast Gold batteries on my truck last year. May not last as long as the Diehard but has a better warranty and less cost.

Check the cables for corrision inside the insulation. If there is any, moving the cables may cause an increase in ohms and a loss of heavy current flow.
Old 08-28-2012, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by scot pa
I've had good luck with Duralast batteries, but haven't bought any in over 5 years now.

Are the batteries giving you problems, or is it one of those things "they are 8 years old so we want to replace them now and take your money even though they may go a couple more years"?
Good to know about the Duralast. I'll probably get the Golds.

I haven't had any problems starting the truck. However, I did throw some codes recently that were related to the batteries and the dealer tested them and said both are bad. All that plus they're 8 years old means it's probably time to replace. I'm hoping the Duralast are at least as good as the OEM Mopars. If so, I should get another 8 years out of this set.
Old 08-28-2012, 02:59 PM
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If your batteries are suspect, don't wait! Change them ASAP. You can fry the ECM with bad batteries...
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