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Codes after shift kit install?

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Old 05-02-2005 | 12:35 PM
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RonP's Avatar
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From: Winston Salem, NC
Codes after shift kit install?

Ok guys, here is the scenario.

Last weekend I installed the shift kit and sonnax valves recommended by Tim Holt. The install went really good and wasn't all that difficult, just time consuming.
the shifts are much firmer and quicker. I love it so far. hopefully it will help the life of the trans.

here is the problem(s)

yesterday I decided to run the key sequence to check for codes. never had one before but to my surprise, there were 2 codes.

P0868 trans fluid pressure low
P0713 trans fluid temp sensor high input

Here is my therory so please tell me if I am way off.

P0868 low pressure because I had the pan down and valve body out so long, I lost a lot of fluid. filled up jugs with old fluid and had right at 10 quarts. If my memory serves me correctly, I think I started the truck for a few seconds after only put in about 5 quarts. I think maybe the low fluid caused the code. any thoughts?



P0713 I turned the key on to move gear selector while hooking up linkage and hadn't connected the solenoid harness yet. that connector is where the trans temp sensor feeds pcm. I think maybe that set that code. any thoughts?

This connector may also be the cause for the pressure code as that signal travels to the PCM through this connector.



I have run the truck for a week and the codes never set a light, they are just in there. the truck runs and shifts awesome.

Will these codes clear themselves after some time or do I have to go have them removed as they drive me crazy.

Thanks guys
Old 05-02-2005 | 03:09 PM
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It sounds like you figured it all out, your theory sounds good to me. You should be able to have the codes cleared with any generic OBDII scanner. (Autozone) Did you do the install yourself? How much $ did it cost you? I'm dieing to do my trans but don t have the $ yet
Old 05-02-2005 | 04:31 PM
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I did install myself. I think the parts were about 130.00 with shipping. I have talked to a few more people and it seem the consensus is that the codes tripped when I turned the key on with the connector unplugged.

thanks
Old 05-02-2005 | 06:08 PM
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Thanks for the info, sounds good. Cheaper than I thought. Are you itching to change the convertor now?
Old 05-02-2005 | 07:01 PM
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Yeah I am but if you look in my gallery, my money pit is there so the convertor will have to wait while I continue to dump money into the car.
thanks
Old 05-04-2005 | 02:11 PM
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RonP
Did you take pics during the install ? Can you do a write-up with pics ?

Thanks
Old 05-04-2005 | 02:47 PM
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From: Gretna, Louisiana
Ron P, What shift kit did you use and where can I get one?
Old 05-04-2005 | 04:07 PM
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From: Winston Salem, NC
Hey guys, here is a post from someone else on another board. I just cut and pasted here. These are the exact parts I used, minus the convertor. I have heard nothing but good things about this convertor and plan on doing that in the next few months. The price is great.

Below is the upgrade package I use for upgrade of the 48RE, especially with heavy towing or performance upgrades. This setup has performed flawlessly on over 200 transmissions in HD diesel Rams.

Valve Body/Torque Convertor upgrades for 48RE transmission:

Parts required – Superior VB Kit (99-up A500/618), Superior part # K500-618-L
Sonnax Pressure Regulator Valve, Sonnax #22771-A-02K
Sonnax Manual Valve, Sonnax #22771-09
Sonnax 4-Spool Convertor Valve, Sonnax #22771A-01
ATC/Repco Torque Convertor, ATC/Repko #CR70X-S1

Installation:

1 – Install VB kit as per instructions, with the following exceptions:

a – Do not drill the Pressure Regulator valve wall as directed – install
Sonnax Pressure Regulator.

b – Do not drill the valve body casting for the manual valve supplied with
the kit – install Sonnax Manual Valve.

c – Replace 4-Spool Lockup Valve with Sonnax 4-Spool Convertor valve.

d – Line pressure setting using the blue spring is set with the aluminum
gauge provided that is also used to measure cut for the throttle valve.
Set the stop halfway to max for use with the heavy duty S1 convertor.
Not necessary to ramp line pressure to the max setting.

2 – Remove the cooler line check valve; Sonnax PR valve moves check valve into
VB. Original check valve is in one of the cooler lines at metal/rubber connection at the fender well, and is part of the coupler.

3 – Replace stock Torque Convertor with ATC/Repco convertor.

The Superior VB kit and Sonnax valve set works extremely well on all model RWD/OD Dodges.

1 – Keeps the TC charged at full throttle and fluid flow at max.
2 – Allows for extended idle in Park by allowing for full fluid circulation, unlike
the stock setup.
3 – These modifications are highly recommended with any rebuild and are perfect
for the lower stall S1 convertor, and work extremely well for lockup.

Call Bobby at AXIOM in Charlotte NC (800) 633-3340 to order parts – total parts cost minus shipping and core was less than $600.00

I will write up a little more in detail about how the procedure went. I don't have any pics, not because I didn't take any, but because my dang camera lost it all for some reason before I downloaded it.

I bought just the 3 valves and the shift correction kit and I think it was about 130.00 shipping included. I love the way the truck shifts now. been running strong for over a week and it has been great. I want to see how it does this weekend with the race car and enclosed trailer behind it.

I will try to write some things up in the next couple days. The big thing was to take your time. I also had printed out pages from my electronic manual showing the valve body broken down. I followed the instructions to the "T" except for drilling the valvebody casting. The replacement valves took care of that. Made it easy. I did enlarge the appropriate holes in the separator plate though. I was told you don't have to but it will shift harder and firmer if you do and that is what I wanted.

hope this helps.

Oh, and the original reason for this post, the codes cleared themselves today. Code free again.
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