3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Changes to 2004.5 truck for towing

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Old 07-01-2009, 10:27 PM
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Changes to 2004.5 truck for towing

Past weekend went to CO to pick up an enclosed aluminum frame 32ft gooseneck (40ft total), wow - trailer pulls really nice. I have pulled enclosed 4 place trailers but this one definitely takes the cake.
My intention is to pull 2 cars back and forth from the midwest to FL twice a year, total load for the truck will always be under 14K. I was able to squeek out 13.5 mpg while driving on perfectly flat highway through CO / NE at 68 mph. I will definitely not get near this loaded or in the midwest with the hills.

My thoughts are the following, not only to increase my mpg but also driveability:
- Tires; truck needs skins, I know big tall monster tires look cool, but my thought was a stock size capable of 3200+ lbs per tire (I only have a srw).If anyone has any suggestions, I am open. I believe someone said nitto's or a similar brand had very good load rating compared to competitor tires. I am kind of a BFG KO fan but they are pricey.
- Gears; Truck turns a little over 1900 at 68 mph. I would like to turn 1800 at 70 mph. I know I have read posts that state you can not tow as much with the 3:42's, I wonder then how it is any different that trucks with 315 / 70 / 17 or the guys that put 19" rims on. The end gear ratio is roughly the same and worse on the truck with the heavy tires. Keep in my I do not intend to haul more than 14K. Since I am only towing the big trailer twice a year, having a 3:42 kit would be nice unloaded. If I get a smarty to allow an extra 40hp to 60 hp, the truck should have plenty of power at 1800 rpm to pull.
- EMS spin kit in the front. I have read some posts and I can see how backing up in 2wd low would be a nice feature. Does the EMS kit provide any mpg improvement under tow conditions? Also, some guys state the ability to start out in 2wd low, is it possible to transition from 2wd low to 2wd high pretty easy? In my truck, you almost have to stop and put the truck in neutral otherwise it grinds / makes a horrific noise. Truck has 155K on it, previous owner was very religous with taking it to the ***********, I do not think he had any front bearings replaced, maybe one or two ball joints.
- Cam; User by the name of Carl48 stated good mpg increase (1.2 mpg when towing 5th wheel) but some others stated the PDR cam was really meant for guys trying to get serious power out of their truck.
- TAG; turbo air guide, I have just smooth intake hoses and a BHAF. My goal is to fab up a box to allow fresh outside air to go through the box in order to not grab under hood air. The TAG was a thought since I have nothing to direct the air.
- Smarty - I have a mileage max which helps but I am thinking about a smarty JR for added power on the bottom end.
- Heater delete; I could simply add back on for winter, looks very simple and during the summer maybe able to gain a little.
- Wrap manifold with header tape, cheap and it should keep heat off of the intake tube.
- Turbo heat shield - I believe i can get my hands on one that wraps the exhaust side of the turbo (item used on off highway equipment). Is this a good idea or a bad idea?

Any other suggestions or insight would be helpful.

Lastly, I understand mpg has a lot to do with speed. I intend on towing around the 68 mph mark. Any slower and it will take me forever to drive 1400 miles as well as get run over and any faster and the RPMs start to climb.

Thanks

SAS
Old 07-02-2009, 02:58 AM
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You threw alot out there......


My opinion. Get a full set of gauges and a Smarty Jr. Purchase an aftermarket 2 micron spin on filter kit to go between your stock filter housing and the CP3 injection pump. Have your transmission upgraded with an aftermarket valve body and triple disc TC. Goerend's is probably not that far from you in Iowa.

Keep the 3.73 gears. Go up to 285/70/17s tires or if you want a little taller go to 285/75/17s. That will, in effect, lower your rpms. If you don't plan on going off-road any ....get a set of Nitto Dura Grappler tires. Or if you want ATs....stick with the BFG KOs or maybe a set of Nitto Terra Grappler or Toyo Open Country ATs.

I'd save your money on the cam (unless you plan to make big big power) and TAG.

You are only talking about a couple of trips a year here. Your truck is more than capable of towing that load as is. The expenses you are talking about spending don't really justify what you are doing, imo. Gauges, trans upgrades, extra fuel filtration, new tires and a Smarty Jr will make a nice dependable tow rig.

..
Old 07-02-2009, 10:11 AM
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I know I haven't been on here long... but I too agree with TexasCTD.

You say you want a higher gear ratio/lower rpm's while cruising unloaded. And you've said it's time for new tires on your rig. It doesn't make sense to me to buy new tires and then re-gear too to something like a 3.42. That's a lot of money you will never get back in mpg IMHO. Since you need new tires anyway and will have to shell out the money for those... get a size up or better yet 265/75 R17 if they have them. It's not any wider (no more rolling resistance) just taller, so you'll get lower RPM's on the HWY. I believe a Smarty Jr. can re-program your truck's speedo to show the correct speed after the tire change too.

I say spend your money on things like TexasCTD said that will make your truck more reliable so you'll be less likely to trade-up to a new one with a payment in a couple years. That's were you're going to save the real dough!
Old 07-02-2009, 10:25 AM
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My effective gear ratio with the 20,s is approx 3:55, i have hauled my 14600 lb fiver thousands of miles in the mountains and flats.Edge on tow mode,6% grades are a non issue.1800 -1850 RPM is the sweet spot,approx 70-72 mph.
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