CANCERMAN

I was changing the front and rear diff fluids (for the third time - no problems with previous changes) on my 03 yesterday and while torquing up the front diff bolts (30 ft/lbs) one of the bolts snapped off. So now I am missing one of the diff bolts and half of it is stuck in the axle. It doesn't seem to leak so I think I will just leave as is an watch it carefully. While torquing up the rear on of the bolts felt like it was about ready to go so I eased up so as not to snap it as well. It is probably torqued to about 20 ft/lbs. The snapped bolt looked like it was composed of really low quality metal.

1. How do it get the snapped bolt out of the axle. Is it all right to leave as is as long as it doen't leak.

2. Are there better quality bolts out there that I can replace the POS OEM bots with the next time I change diff fluids.

Thanks

06RAM2500

That's going to be the tough part. You can remove the pan and see if there is enough sticking out to grab a hold of with vice-grips. If not, your going to have to drill a hole and use a broken bolt extractor. I mentioned tough cause metal pieces are going to be produced and obviously you don't want any in the rear end. BTW, you can head down to a hardware store and pick up some bolts. Be sure to use a Grade 5 & not an 8 or 10, on account of vibrations.

CANCERMAN

Thanks for the info. Judging by the part of the bolt that I have it is unlikely that there will be enough sticking out to get a grip on. Not only that, as cheap as it looks it would probably crumble and break some more if I tried to vise grip it! I'll look into the broken bolt extractor. Can you get this tool at a place like sears, autozone etc?

Any idea the exact size of the bolt? If not I will just wait till next diff change and measure one/ bring one to the hardware store and match it up. I'm not familiar with grade 5 vs 8 or 10 but I will keep that in mind try to get the grade 5. I always learn something new at this forum.

thanks

SOhappy

No offense, but are you sure the torque wrench was set properly (or that you were reading properly)? When I did mine, 30 ft/lbs felt like nothing, I have a hard time imagining they'd twist off with that little amount of torque.

I think I did mine to 5 more just because I was worried they'd back out. I guess I won't be doing that again.

But yes, and EZ-out should remove the broken bolt (available almost anywhere). Just be sure and drill the pilot hole close to the center of the bolt.

92'1stGen

I just snugged them because even though the manual may call for 30 ft lbs or whatever it is, alot of guys had the bolts breaking before they got there. You could probably do 15 or 20 and they'll be just fine. Mine have been on like that for 7.5k and there good.

CANCERMAN

Yeah the torque wrench was correct (first thing I checked when she broke) and it didn't take much to break the sucker either. I bet it broke a less than 20 ft/lbs. I have done them 3 times before and never had a prob. Like 92 '1stGen says I think next time I go 20 ft/lbs.

Thanks you all for the replies.

06RAM2500

Sears would be a good spot to get a set. Most hardware stores carry them also!!

timcasbolt

I disagree that a grade 5 would be the right bolt for this application. A grade 8 has more than enough toughness for a vibration situation, and is much stronger than a 5. Never had any experience with a grade 10. Don't know what it's for.

As far as removing the broken piece, sometimes you can get in there with a thin cutoff wheel and put enough of a slot in it to back it out with a screwdriver.

xraydodge

If it does not leak I wouldn't mess with it. But eventually it probably will. You can use an easy out or a left handed drill bit. If there is enough of the bolt sticking out you could weld a nut on it and screw it out. Good luck.

kyncl

do all the drilling with the cover on. then use air nozzle to remove metal shavings. this will keep the rear diff. free of metal.

CANCERMAN

Thanks for the great info. I can't weld (would like to learn). The notch with thin cutoff wheel sounds like a good idea. I think kyncl has the best idea though, drill with cover on due to the metal shavings. Then maybe I could get a new one in there without having to take the pan off again. By the way, the fluid was really clean in both front and rear with about 35K mile on mobil 1 75-90. Quite a few miles towing 4 horse living quarters horse trailer as well.

Just for my education what is the difference between grade 5 vs grade 8 vs grade 10 bolts?

Thanks again

1-2-3

"a left handed drill bit."


Second this motion. Usuallt with a lefty, it'll grab after drilling just a little bit and will unscrew the bolt for you. Works real well most of the time.

Nuttymopar

Same boat as you. Hasn't leaked in 2 years of driving the truck. Just never have gotten around to drilling and pulling that busted bolt.

DaveB.inVa

If you do try, or have to remove it with the cover off cover the ring gear and differential with an old cloth and stuff some news papers down into the bottom of the housing.

That will help keep the shavings out of the guts of the diff and if any fall into the bottom of the housing when you pull the papers out itll hopefully bring anything that did make it down out.

Even so I'd still clean and inspect it really well after I did that!

timcasbolt

Here is a link to an excellent explanation: http://www.rockcrawler.com/techrepor...ners/index.asp

I'll try to find something about grade 10, but have never heard of it. Perhaps Machinery's Handbook will have some information.