Alright, I changed my fuel filter yesterday just like a thousand times before except I didn't give it a chance to prime after I put it back together. For some reason the automatic motion of jumping in and starting it took over and I'm pretty sure I now have air in the HP side of the fuel system. I've never worked on a CR before. I've always dealt with the 2nd gen. and older. I tried my usual cracking the fitting going into the head and had my wife bump it several times and never got anything out of it. There are two places to put a wrench on the injector, one is 19MM that the tubing goes straight into and the other is 24MM. Help Please, My wife had to drop me off at work this morning and I can't afford a 5 star IHOP breakfast every morning so they can kill time before my son can be at school.

 

The CR fuel system is self priming, DO NOT OPEN THE LINES, you can do some serious damage to yourself or the truck, but mostly yourself.

Cycle the key several times, which will turn your pump on until primed, (3 or 4 times). Then Try to start your truck. Might have to crank a bit longer but that's ok.

JR

 

^^^^ Right on, your lucky it didnt show any at the line, it would have been trying to come out at 10,000+ psi in any direction it could. The only thing like stated above you need to do is just cycle it a few times until you are satisfied.

 

Crack the input fitting at the CP-3 and cycle the key several times to get fuel to the IP. The lock will occur between the filter and IP so bleeding that out will help tremendously.

The HP fuel system itself is self bleeding and you just have to crank the engine to bleed it. Getting the fuel to IP makes the difference between extended cranking to bleed all the air and less than 30 seconds to get it to fire.

 

Appreciate everything. I stayed way back when trying to bleed no. 1 and tried bleeding the input line. in 45 minutes of figuring and trying, I got it to fire three times. Each time it was the same story, it would act like it was gonna run for about 10-15 seconds then die back off. When I get home I will proceed as instructed and I'll try to nail it when it acts like it wants to crank.

 

Again, thanks all!

 

Do you have low pressure fuel? Do you know what the pressure is?

Do you have any codes?

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t224833.html Sometimes you have to turn the key 4x to get codes.


You should be able to turn the key on, let the fuel pump run until the 45 second cutoff, then bump the starter (don't try to start), and let the pump run again. Continue 3-4 times. If it still will not start, we have another problem.

Did you close the water drain and make sure that the canister lid is on tight?

 

Okay, so with a lil help from some Ether I got it cranked after a good 45 min. worth of trying. Ran fine for 20 miles worth of driving and it died at a stop sign on the way back. This time it would act like it wanted to start everytime I tried, but wouldn't do anything more than spit and sputter for 30 seconds.

Unplugged pressure box and runs like a champ. Put pressure box on neighbors truck and works fine. So now I have to look harder.

hat, I tried the key for codes procedure and no dice. I'll have to figure out a way to get a reader cheap and then retrieve. I guess Autozone will do.

 

So, you're saying that with the pressure box off, your truck runs fine?

 

Just cycling the key won't fire the lift pump for the full 30 seconds unless its VERY cold out. You need to bump the starter, wait 30 seconds, and bump again.

If its dying on you like that (you really shouldn't need or use ether (especially in a grid heater motor)) the you may have installed the filter wrong, or there is a blockage in the filter bowl.

Was there a power issue prior to the filter change?