rick83864

Thanks for the info. As long as I baby mine the shudder isn't real bad. Is there risk of dropping the OEM shafts or what? Or is it just the PITA feeling it gives you? Not sure $500 in the budget right now.

lucey

Okay so for us shortbox quadcab guys, is there any advantage to going to this shortened aluminum deal ? Mine is a one piece as of now. Can the steel one just be balanced with new u-joints ? I tow heavy ! Whats the good word ? Advantages ?

RAMRODD

To half way answer your question you can balance your old steel driveshaft.

Fishguy 50

Many of us on here speak of the two piece driveshaft as being worthless... NOT TRUE!!! I cashed mine in with some other scrap steel, approx cash value $5. When was the last time your driveshaft bought you lunch?

txarrowhunter

i will have more then 5$ fuel getting it there.....so yeah its pretty much worthless

nvr-enuf

So if I read this post correctly, the 1 piece AL driveshaft is factory dodge item. If yes, can someone provide me the Dodge part number for a 2004.5 quad cab long box truck wtih an automatic? I want to check and see what a contact at the local dodge dealer can purchase the unit for.

Thanks
SAS

kertoncol

After so many years of dealing with the shudder and hearing how others solved it by changing the shaft, I decided I had to change it too. What a difference it has made.

kertoncol

That's funny. I put mine in my trash can and the trash company put it in my lawn. They took my trash but left the shaft.

txarrowhunter

ok so i installed my driveshaft today and boy is it light compared to the 2 pc metal one. overall my truck feels the exact same as it did with the 2pc shaft.

but i like it anyway, the only negative is that the front shaft only penetrated about 4" due to the lift i have on my truck but i already drove on it on bumpy roads and all feels ok. i guess i wont have to replace it somewhere down the road.

jlipskoc

I got my 1pc drive shaft on tonite too (from Dog House Diesel) , easy job, about 30 mins for me, heavy sucker the 2 pc was. The rear ujoint at the differential was shot one way, the other way was fine, I can barely move the joint by hand, surprise I made it that long, only had vibe on starting to move, and slowing down about 30mph and less. Had a slight vibe at 65+mph.

100k on the truck now. NO MORE VIBES YIPPPEEEE

txarrowhunter

Thinking that 4" engagement on the transfer case side is enought I guess. Took her down to the river bottom this afternoon and surprisingly managed to get her off the ground about 10"-12" and suspension was under no load and the shaft didn't come out...BUT it did make a loud popping noise on the front end upon landing. After inspecting everything, I have come to the conclusion that I'm in desperate need of balljoints and nobody has carlis yet.

kertoncol

Whew, glad it didn't pop out of the transfer case. That could have been ugly.

Rednax

All I did was take mine in to a driveshaft shop and have them replace the joints and re-balance. Plenty less than half that $630 + shop charges. Had about 160,000 on truck at that point. Guess I'll do it again at 275,000 or so. I'll still be ahead.

I understand the frustration expressed by some. But I'd still take a "bad" truck to a specialist before spending that kind of money on an unknown quantity.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t259609.html

.

kertoncol

The total was $630 (including the shop). I took mine to a "Diesel shop" once for new u-joints. The problem was a little better but the shudder was still there. I waited a long time until doing this mod. Partly because I didn't know whether it would solve the problem. After reading that others were successful with solving their problem I did it. So far so good. It's a pleasure to drive again without any vibrations or shudders like I had.

Ultimately it's your truck and you have to do what you feel comfortable with.

Just curious, do you have a take-off shudder, empty or loaded?

Gmanndodgeguy

One question comes to mind outside of whats already been asked.

Factory Dodge is a two piece right, the steady bearing has a slip yoke at the steady bearing. So by going to a one piece all the slipping now takes place at the output shaft instead of the slip yoke. So, are the long box truck output shafts designed for this to occur? I just looked underneath my long box truck and the shaft forward the steady bearing is tight up to the transfer case and doesn't look like it moves back and forth...

Interested in any comments.