That I dont know, good question. 6, had to change my post. Didnt want to stir the pot too much.

 

On a stock band I would say warm is your best bet. On an aftermarket band its doubtful if it matters but warm will eliminate any question of temp differences causing growth/shrinkage.

 

Ok, matbe that is a aftermarket intermediate band that I havent seen. The low/reverse band has engagement tabs that look just like the upgraded band in the picture posted. Does that band include different struts of band anchor? Doesnt look like the stock stuff would fit that band. Learn something new everyday!

 

You can use the stock ones but that is also not recommended as the stock strut tends to bend. The low/ reverse band has different tabs on it. Heres a pic of the low/ reverse band next to a low/reverse band from a 46RE. If you go to performance transmissions website is has pics of all the guts for any domestic transmission http://www.transmissioncenter.net/HPIM1251.JPG

 

Doesn't need different hardware as the notch for the band strut and anchor is under the tab and cast into the piece. Makes it a lot stronger and stops the deflection the flex band exhibits under high pressures. The upgrades are a rigid band not the flex band like the OEM so they will maintain their shape and contact under higher loads and pressures.

You have to fix the leaks in the front servo at the same time or all is for naught. The OEM servo cover and servo piston leave a lot to be desired when you crank up the line pressures and load with a lot of power.

I opted for a better flex band, billet strut, and servo cover to see what it would take. So far so good at +40k running 400-450 hp tunes.

 

Who did you get the servo, strut and other parts from? Id be interested in looking into them.

 

Just about any tranmision shop can get the upgraded parts from different places. Sonnax makes a lot of them. This link has about all the parts needed to upgrade all the transmissions ans these guys have been aroud a while building race units.

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm

 

Hmmm, I guess folks that were subscribed got to see the real deal!!!

 

Wasnt bad, just thought after I wrote it that it may not be funny but more smart@ss. Didnt want to cause a blowout in here. 6 cc'ed it in his post. Has anyone here installed the Allison electronics on their trans (48re)? I still have the shuttle shift when the trans is cold and its irritating.

 

Are you talking about the gov. solenoid?

 

I have seen the followup of at least 3 people that said the aftermarket pieces cured their shuttle shift problem. Two of the PATC pieces and one of the Suncoast have claimed success. Others have hinted that the DTT piece has done the same thing also.

 

Back to original question...I got an E-mail back from my DTT installer.

... "As to having to replace bands on a particular number of adjustments, it depends on wear on band at each adjustment.
If there is still some adjustment bolt sticking through the locknut and there is no slippage then there is no real reason to go in and replace the band.
I do replace the front band on all freshen ups. These are usually brought to me well past 100K miles, and bands usually look worn. But, I have one customer that tows trailers all over the country and has over 400K on his trans without a freshen up. He may make 500K before we go back in. He's just been very meticulous about service and adjustments."

RJ

 

I think its the gov. solenoid because it only happens when the transmission is cold and fluid is thicker. The only peice I know of from PATC is the billet adapter for the Allison gov, is there also another one from PATC and another one from Suncoast?

 

PATC uses the GM solenoid and an adapter. Suncoast and DTT are using the Borg Warner solenoid off the 68RFE on a custom adapter.

Either one is a lot more toelrable of fluid conditions and pressure swings so they work better the OEM 48RE solenoid.

 

As I said, if everything else works correctly and there is no slippage an adjustment just turns into a check. If there is no change in the position it is not even needed. Also, on most built transmissions the flex band is replaced with a rigid that does not suffer the same problems as the flex.

Knowing the way DTT builds their transmissions ALL of the potential leak sites have been fixed. Once you stop the leaks and get the apply right even a band can go LOTS of miles before ever needing replaced. A flex band should be a 200-300k wear item, a rigid easily double that if things are working correctly.