RobG

Today I started on my ball joint project, since good ole US Mail had to delivery then four days late (so much for Priority).

I started on the right side. Everything came apart fairly easily. It took a few tries to get the wheel bearing assy popped loose. The old ball joints came out fairly easily given the fact that the tool Autozone loaned me really isn't quite big enough. The clamp portion should be at least a half inch longer.

I got the XRF lower ball joint in after a bit of work. The air gun isn't nearly strong enough, so I was using a half-inch ratchet with a 4' breaker bar.

The top one has turned into a nightmare. Due to lack of experience and the fact that this tool really is too **** small, I managed to ruin it. The shaft no longer goes up and down; its jammed up in the ball joint. The threads are ruined too from trying to knock it free with a hammer (I was ******). After a lot more work I finally got it out.

I can finish this side using the other upper ball joint that I have, but when I get to the other side, I have two choices... I can either leave the OEM one in place, or I can get whatever I can find locally. I think I can get a Moog from Carquest, and maybe one other brand, but Im not sure what. I already know I don't want an Autozone (Duralast) one, those are crap. But I don't have time to wait for another XRF. It'd be middle of next week before it gets here and I have to have my truck back together before then. I basically have until Sunday to have it out of this shop I'm using.

I got the wheel bearing changed out, which was a bit of work too since it's stuck into the backside of the rotor with the dually extension bolted to it. Now I have to figure out how to change the U-Joint on the axle. I have no clue how to even begin. Once the other upper ball joint is in, that's the only thing left to do before I can reassemble the right side.

So... what do you think? Leave the OEM upper or go with a potentially questionable one? Is there a way I can test it once the knuckle is off to know what kind of condition it's in?

Thanks.

Rob

torquefan

If it was me, I'd finish the one side with the new parts you have, then start over on the other side whenever you have another new ball joint and a better press lined up. I wouldn't go to the trouble of taking it all apart just to replace the lower, as it will probably stress the upper to disassemble and reassemble.

I wouldn't be crazy about the idea of putting in 3 XRF joints and one Moog either. I just like things to match, also Moogs aren't stellar in 3rd gen trucks. Whatever you decide, I hope it ends up well. I sure hate these weekend projects. The parts or tools are always wrong, and in my experience, I'm usually many miles away from home too.

Good luck.

RobG

The problem is I'm not going to have another chance to do this without having to pay somebody to do it. So yeah I'm pretty well stuck.

FWIW I don't see it stressing the other upper by just removing the knuckle. That joint doesn't move except up and down.

Plus, I still need to do the wheel bearing and u-joint on the other side, so I kinda have to dig into it anyway.

Rob

RobG

Well, I can see the light at the end of the tunnel! I figured a follow-up post was worthwhile.

The right side is completely done and back together. The left side is waiting on an upper ball joint. The u-joint is done, the wheel bearing is done. I even did the front diff fluid and transfer case fluid today. Oh and I installed one of those steering box braces too.

Tomorrow I'll ride into town and get an upper ball joint, two wheel studs, new wheel bearing bolts (long story), and an outer tie rod. Then I can button the whole thing back up. With it mobile, I'll go get fluid to do the rear diff and the antifreeze. Then all that's left is the transmission. I just can't swing the cost of 6-7 quarts of Royal Purple Synchromax right now (which is what is in it right now, with 12k more miles til it has 50k on it).

I can't wait til middle of next week for another XRF ball joint, so I will get the best one I can find locally. We'll see what that ends up being.

The U-joint swap was insanely simple once I found the right video on YouTube showing a good technique. I used a bench vise and a hammer.

Oh... the front diff only had two quarts of fluid in it (no evident leaks, btw), and the transfer case had three quarts in it. It should have been the other way around. Weird. Oh well now it's all fresh.

Rob

jhenson

Glad to hear things worked out for you. A little patience can go a long ways with these trucks. I know the parts changing can be a bear to deal with but with some TLC they will last quite a while. Hope it lasts you several more years.

fzr400

raybestos pro is what the carquest bye me sells.. they mostly deal with
shops. they said moog aint what they used to be. put 2 on a little ole ranger and looked 2 be top notch

RobG

So today is going down the tubes rapidly. There are no ball joints in this **** town that I'll have. I found a Raybestos for $90; no thanks, I'll sooner order an XRF and have it overnighted. But on that one and all the others, though, the shaft does not go up and down like the XRF or the OEM ball joints. I wonder about that.

I did finally find two OEM ones in stock at a local Jeep dealer (of all places, go figure) for $61. I might go that route, BUT, here's the new catch: I need the four bolts that connect the wheel hub to the knuckle. I buggered all of them getting them out and the original assy loose.

The local Dodge dealer I went to put my VIN into the computer and it lists no such part for my truck, and they weren't interested in selling me the part even if they had it in stock just because it's not on my VIN. ***? It's an M14-1.50x85mm, 10.9 grade, flanged hex head. I've been to Fastenal and several other nut and bolt shops in town and nobody has anything like it or can get one in fewer than several days. My patience is rapidly running out.

If I could get the **** bolts, I would just buy the OEM ball joint and get the thing back together. But I don't even have a Dodge part number for them since they allegedly don't exist on my truck.

Rob

motrapper

Did you consider Carli ball joints they are guaranteed for life.

gorms

I'm not sure how different the hub setup is on a 3rd gen vs my 2nd gen, but I had the same problem locating the knuckle-hub bolts on their computer. The parts guy ended up looking at a few different schematics before finding them, after first telling me they weren't listed. They do exist.

On my drivers side I had to replace 2 with some standard grade 8 hex head bolts, they have held up fine for a few years of plowing/some offroad/general cruddy new england roads.

gorms

I typed in "2005 Ram 2500 hub knuckle bolts" in google and came up with this:. Factory Chrysler parts they show the bolt at 55mm length, might be a start though. $4 and some change, under "brakes"

SOhappy

I've decided the reason the shop rate is $1000 to change ball joints on these trucks is because they know they'll break something(s) along the way. Next time (if there is one) put the BJs in your freezer overnight prior to installation, they go in a bit easier when they're cold.

RobG

I called Tire Club yesterday and they overnighted me a replacement ball joint; tracking shows it'll be here today as planned. The local dealer will have the bolts for me too. Hopefully they'll be the right ones. If not, you may see me back in here to post another tirade.

Wish me luck! I'll need it.

Rob

RobG

Yay! It's back together! Now to get a wheel alignment and it'll be in good shape.

A huge thank you to gorms -- you were right about the bolts. The ones I had ordered were too long. A nice lady at the local Jeep dealer helped me figure out the correct part number (5086661AA). Then I just had to ride all over the tri-county area to find four of them.

Rob

barttly

Hey, wondering if I could ask a question regarding your experience with the ball joint tool/press. I bought one for the front of my jeep TJ. Mine kind of looks like a big /beefy c-clamp. Guessing it might be similar to the one you mentioned as being a little on the small side for these trucks. Did you end up renting a larger one for the second side? If not, sounds like you were able to make it work, any tips or tricks with the smaller press.

RobG

I made this one work. It took some thought to make it work right. When removing the old uppers, I used a 1" Craftsman socket on the bottom of the clamp that would press into the BJ's stud. That gave me enough room (barely) up top to use a receiver cylinder and the cap thing.

When installing the new uppers, I had to start with the cap with the big hole in it on the bottom and a receiver cyl on top with the other cap, but only for halfway. Then I had to reverse it and put the receiver on the bottom and then the other cap directly on top of the new ball joint (which didn't fit on it too well) to press it in the rest of the way.

If the BJ's for your Jeep are smaller (likely), you probably will have less trouble.

Rob