Hetdiesel

I seem to need to replace the U joints in my front end . I have never changed them before just on older chevy Driveshafts. any one want to explain what needs to be done i can get myself through the first couple steps i bought a u joint a napa.

then take the wheel and brake calaper off then im kinda lost.


Also i was told there are powder metal products that are somewhere in the front end where i will be taking apart that will need to be replaced also.

If any info i would really appreciate it Thanks

ptm600

Follow this link and read it. Although you aren't doing ball joints it will get you where you need to be. It is an excellent writeup by Mr. Gadget. I don't think you'll find a better set of instructions elswhere.

http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/...nt_Replacement

Paul

mini14

i dont know what year u have but it is covered under warranty if u still have 1

Hetdiesel

i am the second owner im not sure that the warranty went to me also
i only think the cummins 100,000 is still there no matter what.

Not positive though.

tim1

You might want to put greasable in Pn v8016665aa at you dodge dealer. Tim

jumper

Assuming this is for a third generation.

Get the American made "Precision" 464 U-joints not the Chinese "Performance" 464s from Napa. I accidentally got the foreign ones and they wouldn't fit.

• Remove Wheel
• Remove brake caliper and bracket (for reassembly, 250lbs on the bracket to housing bolts, 24lbs on caliper slider bolts)
• Remove the Rotor
• Remove the Axle nut (1-11/16 nut, for reassembly, 132lbs torque, rotate the hub few times then 263lbs torque)
• Unplug the ABS sensor harness and separate from the brake line
• Loosen the four bolts holding hub to housing and "convince" the hub to separate from the housing. I swapped out the factory bolts for some sacrificial ones and used a big hammer and punch on them to drive the hub out. Several liberal applications of Mopar rust penetrant helped as well. Others have used the steering mechanism to do so. (for reassembly, 149lbs torque on the four bolts)
• Pull the axle out
• Replace and lube the u-joint
• Determine if you need a new hub. My last one was still tight, but bearings sounded dry so I replaced it. I did brakes and brake fluid as well while I was at it.
• Reinstall in reverse order. I applied copper anti-seize to the hub-housing mating surfaces for the next go round in another 100K or so miles.

Mark Hodowanec

If I "convince" the hub to come out this way, will it be damaged? Or is it safe to the hub, like the PS method? Also, what size for the sacrificial bolts?

Mocho

No matter what way, it is possible to damage the hub, just depends on how bad it is. The power steering method, you have to be VERY careful, you can damage something very easy. When I helped my bro, we just used a 3 point puller, and hit the hub while tightening the puller. Came off pretty easy. If you got a couple days, hit it with penetrating lube, should help a bit.